How to properly build nails: step by step instructions. Nail extension lessons for beginners

Now itโ€™s easy to buy materials for modeling nails, watch video tutorials and do gel manicure yourself. Well, if everything works out the first time. But for the most part this does not happen. The material that has flowed onto the cuticle, uneven lines of a smile, pecking down nails - all this betrays the inept master.

To avoid mistakes, you need to know how to properly build your nails. It should be noted that the requirements for the form of nails have changed with the advent of modern materials. Tips of an obsolete shape make them wide and slightly bent down, in addition, the use of tips provides for applying a certain thickness of material to them. Therefore, those girls who wear long natural nails will immediately determine the unnatural shape.

The nail should have a certain design, architecture. Then he will be beautiful and difficult to break. This is taught in manicure schools.

Nail extension training

Although there are many schools, not everyone is taught arch modeling. When choosing a training studio, it is better to focus on this aspect, as well as on whether it has arch modeling programs for advanced masters. A detailed study of modeling architecture will give an idea of โ€‹โ€‹how to properly build nails.

In the process of working with the material (whether it is gel or acrylic), the modern task of the master is to artificially bend the nail in cross section during the polymerization of acrylates, forming an arch. Salon formation is 25%, and competitive - 50% of the circle. This procedure is called "Squeezing."

How did you come to this decision? Largely due to nature. The natural shape of long nails has a curved transverse arch of the free edge. The lateral ridges of such a nail are parallel, the nail bed is also in the form of an arch, so the nails seem narrow and graceful. In addition, so-called stiffeners are formed, which make the nail strong.

Oval shaped artificial nails

Over time, wearing long nails causes an increase in hyponichia - the skin under the free edge of the nail. This leads to lengthening of the nail bed. Therefore, modeling of an elongated nail bed is also considered normal for artificial nails , which virtually eliminates the use of white nail tips.

Why study for yourself

It is unlikely that extended nails will bring joy to their mistress if they break quickly. Detachments, forever clinging to hair, chips and cracks spoil the mood. If before the questions of girlfriends: "She increased?" - pronounced with admiration, now this question means the presence of gross errors in the work. Otherwise, he would not have arisen. These are the moments that make it necessary to attend nail extension lessons.

The materials used by masters in salons have also undergone significant changes. Some well-known brands already have tightening gels, but not all. It will be annoying when, when the arch is pressed, the nail will crack along the entire length! Just such a material is not designed for deformation, it is an old line of gels.

Design looks better on long nails

In order not to get confused in manufacturers, compatible and incompatible materials, polymerization time and many other subtleties, it is better to undergo training in nail extension in a good school.

Modern nail extension

To comply with all the proportions of an artificial nail, one-time forms are used for modeling. They can be paper or made of foil. There is no standard, universal shape: all nails are different, and often the shape is cut to better fit on the finger. If the nails are very wide, you have to make a composite shape by gluing two into one. For extreme lengths, two forms are also used, but in this case they are combined in length.

To build nails on forms, as it may seem at first glance, is more difficult than on tips. However, it is not. If you understand all the intricacies, understand how the slightest deviations from the classical formulation of forms work, you can successfully achieve the correction of an incorrectly growing nail plate. Masters prefer just such a build-up.

Extended nails

A metal tube is inserted under the paper form, along which the C-bend of the nail is bent. In total there are ten sizes, this is enough for substitution. In the question of how to properly build nails, they are of paramount importance. Set them as a continuation of the finger, avoiding displacements and pick up a much smaller natural arch to perform a steep C-bend.

Form Technology

There are several types of disposable forms. There are very primitive, almost without divisions. There are also very detailed ones, with marked control points for building a competent architecture. When buying, you should check whether the glue holds well. Poor quality forms stick in the lamp, fly off and spoil all the work.

Typically, well-known companies produce high-quality forms, and you can choose them. If you make a purchase in a professional store, it is more likely to purchase quality goods. But now everything you need is bought. It's time to figure out how to build up nails on the forms. They are also called templates. The natural form of nails is different for all people. It is possible to distinguish โ€œbitingโ€, spring-jumping and trapezoid. Therefore, the patterns are cut individually with scissors.

The illustration shows how to cut a portion in the smile zone and make cuts at the side rollers, depending on the natural shape of the nail.

Setting the form for different nails

For the formation of square nails, the template is placed a little up. To simulate the shape of a stylet or almond pattern, on the contrary, put a little down. This is done in order to give the ends the smallest thickness, increasing it nevertheless in the stress zone.

Tubes help to establish the desired shape of the template. For square nails, the template is glued so that it forms a hollow shape at the end, and for stylet and almond nails, its sides on the free edge are completely joined to form a cone.

Modern materials

For modeling nails apply gel and acrylic. In the salon, these materials can be combined: make an acrylic backing, squeeze the arch, lay out the nail bed with camouflage gel, file off and give the gel a white smile. To make this possible, materials for nail extension should be combined with each other. It is known that all American materials fit well and are not torn away. Unfortunately, this cannot be said of Chinese materials. Therefore, when buying, you should pay attention to the manufacturer.

Not all gels are suitable for preloading the arch, so you need to carefully approach their choice. Usually a transparent substrate is made and clamped during polymerization, and then the laying of the material on the already formed nail continues. But sometimes there is no such gel on sale, in this case it can be replaced with a pink one that can hold its shape.

Contest nails

What you need to build gel nails:

  1. Lamp for polymerization.
  2. Gel base.
  3. Constructing clear or pink gel (capable of tightening).
  4. Camouflage gel for laying out the extension of the nail bed.
  5. White gel for the smile.
  6. Top gel top.
  7. Disposable forms.
  8. Tubules.
  9. Pilots 180 grit, 150 grit, buff 180/240 grit.
  10. Number 4 brush for gel.
  11. Reverse forceps, forms for clamping in a lamp.
  12. Preparatory fluids: degreaser, acid-free primer.

All gels are divided into two large groups: capable and not capable of polymerizing in an LED lamp. Typically, all older generation gels are dried in UV lamps. For convenience, it is better to buy a lamp in which UV and LED technologies are combined.

Before building acrylic nails, the following materials are prepared:

  1. Brush number 6 for acrylic.
  2. Monomer.
  3. Clear acrylic powder.
  4. Camouflage acrylic powder.
  5. White acrylic powder.
  6. Disposable forms.
  7. Tubules.
  8. Files 180 grit, 150 grit, buff 180/240 grit, polisher 1000 grit.
  9. Degreaser, acid primer.


There are certain features in preloading the arch, depending on the material for building nails. The acrylic squeezing technique is different from gel. In order to form a C-bend in acrylic technique, the stress zone must first be clamped. Here is the largest amount of material, so acrylic polymerizes faster. If you do not have time to do this, all the work will be in vain. Will have to redo it.

Nail form "ballerina"

The difficulty is that acrylic quickly sets and becomes very hard. Every second, more and more effort is required to change the transverse bending. A feature of acrylic is fast polymerization in a warm room. Therefore, this should also be taken into account, remembering how to build up nails with acrylic. After clamping the stress zone, they begin to form a bend of the free edge.

Each brand of acrylic has its own characteristics and, accordingly, its time of preloading the material. To determine whether it is time to bend or not, check the consistency of acrylic: it should bend, not smear. In most cases, the wizard can do this simply with his fingers.

Gels are clamped only in the form of heat. If the gel has cooled, itโ€™s too late to squeeze it, it may crack. Highly pigmented white gels and camouflage look beautiful, but cure for a long time. Therefore, it is better to cover them with a transparent gel and squeeze again. There is a need to monitor the position of the hand in the lamp.

Finished arch forms

If the substitution of forms seems difficult and incomprehensible, you can use the high-speed method of salon building-up using ready-made arch forms. They also have several sizes, fit all nails, form a free edge with a finished arch. How they work will show a video tutorial on nail extension.

In this technology, a substrate is first made with a given length of the free edge, and then the usual spreading of the material. You can do both gel and acrylic extensions. A positive aspect is the lack of the need for disposable forms, tubes, forceps and molds for clamping in a lamp.

Arch technology

First of all, we need the arched forms themselves. This is a set of 50 shapes in ten sizes. Nails are prepared for extension and they select the appropriate shape for each nail. After that, the desired length is marked with a marker on the outside. Now you can start modeling.

How to build up gel nails at home:

  1. A thin layer of gel is applied to the arched form, intermediate polymerization - 8 seconds.
  2. Put a staged drop of gel in the area of โ€‹โ€‹attachment and install on the nail. They cure without releasing the form for several seconds. Drain in the lamp for the time required by the manufacturer.
  3. Carefully remove the form.
  4. Perform the calculation of the nail bed with an extension of camouflage gel, polymerized.
  5. Remove the dispersion and file off camouflage.
  6. Spread a white gel in the smile zone, polymerize.
  7. Cover work with clear top gel.

How to grow nails without shapes

If there are difficulties with setting any forms - both classical and arched, there is an interesting technology for strengthening the free edge and stress zone with a fireclass. This technology is adapted for building small lengths with sculpted biogels - solid soluble materials.

Silk Strengthening and Building

The modeling process resembles the strengthening of nails with silk: a cut piece of silk is applied to the base gel and embedded in the material. Then it moves slightly from the nail, a small free edge is formed. After polymerization, a good substrate is obtained, like glued tips.

To obtain a beautiful C-bend, during arch polymerization, keep the arch clamped with forceps in the desired position. After modeling, you can apply any design, give any shape to the nails.

And how to build nails without forms with acrylic? Using transparent tips. But the look of the nails will be far from ideal, because the tips do not run out. The use of acrylic to impregnate silk is also impossible.

Silk Gel Gel Technology

There is a simple technology how to build up nails with gel at home. This is the use of special fiberglass, the so-called silk for repairing nails. Apply this method to repair chipped corners and a slight lengthening of the nails. Sometimes this procedure is combined with gluing tips of a natural color and reinforcing them with a cloth.

To do this, prepare:

  1. Silk, scissors, glue for tips.
  2. Files 180 grit, buff 240 grit and buffs 1000 grit.
  3. Oil for polishing nails.

The procedure is shown in the video.

Since these nails do not last long, you can supplement this technology with a single-phase transparent gel for building. But for this you need a UV lamp.

How to build gel nails on your own:

  1. Prepare the nails for extension (remove the shine with a buff, degrease, treat with an acid-free primer).
  2. Glue a cut piece of silk and squeeze it well with an orange stick.
  3. Apply a thin layer of single-phase gel on the nails with rubbing movements, polymerize in the lamp.
  4. Apply gel to the nail in the stress zone, wait for it to spread over the entire length of the nail and turn the hand over for a few seconds to form an apex, then polymerize in the lamp.
  5. Saw down the nail, giving it a shape.
  6. Coat with a thin layer of gel, as varnish, polymerize.

This is a fairly easy step-by-step instruction on how to build up nails. For a small lengthening, two to three millimeters will suffice. As the nail grows, a correction is made with the same gel. But you need to remember that the preload is done during the polymerization of the glue. Single-phase gels do not compress.


Any business requires preparation and study, and manicure is no exception. This article is only a small part of the science of how to properly build nails. But if you show perseverance, then everything will work out.


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