French nail extension: types and technologies

French nail extension is considered a classic. It is he who is demonstrated at the contests of nail masters. There are certain norms and rules of proportions in this art, which have recently undergone some changes.

With the advent of new materials, it became possible to correct the nail bed, the formation of arched nails. Even a small length can be increased so that the nails acquire a modern, perfect shape.

There are two categories in nail fashion: salon and competitive modeling. They differ in the rules for constructing and using auxiliary tools. Salon - this is a convenient length, not a very steep arch, the use of camouflage material, the thickness of the free edge, equal to a business card. Competitive - extension of the nail bed is not allowed, the arch is formed steep (180 degrees), the thickness of the free edge, like a sheet of stationery paper.

Classic in nail modeling

In building there are the same fashion styles as in modeling clothes. Basically, the salon master works in the style of ready-to-wear, that is, mass fashion. Here, lengthening the natural nail bed, tightening the nails with tweezers to form parallel side ridges and a maximum length of one to one and a half centimeters are considered classics.

Salon building "French"

There are several types of nail extensions service in the salon:

  • Using white tips.
  • Using top forms.
  • With the use of liquid tips.
  • Using arched shapes.
  • With the substitution of disposable forms and templates.
  • With free edge reinforcement.

Each of these types has its own technology, sometimes performed only on the materials of certain companies.

Nail extension on forms

When talking about building on forms, they mean disposable forms. They require a certain skill, because under each finger the shape can be placed in different ways. This is because the side rollers, fingertips and smile line on all fingers are different. To bring everything to one standard, you have to cut the shape, combine two stencils. For stylets, it needs to be slightly omitted, and for “pecking” nails, it should be raised.

A professional uses nail tips in the most extreme cases, preferring nail extensions to forms. But there is a need to apply tips, for example, on fingers with deep rollers and pads.

French angular shape complemented by a simple curl

The material for building is chosen by the master. He can decide in which case it is better to use gel, and in which - acrylic. Acrylic nails are much thinner than gel nails, compress well and form a beautiful arch. But gel allows you to use many types of design, technology which for acrylic does not exist. These are “cat's eye”, “liquid stones and casting”, “mirror manicure” and many others.

Other types of extensions are designed to help the master reduce the time of the procedure.

Which type of extension is better

French gel nail extension will look beautiful when the nail bed is lengthened with camouflage. It is a dense pink gel in several shades to simulate the natural color of the nail. This cannot be achieved using white tips - they will shine through camouflage. Transparent nail tips will do, but the thickness of the free edge will increase significantly - because then the thickness of the white gel will be applied to the tips. In addition, tips do not give the possibility of preloading the arch - they will break during deformation.

For the same reason - the impossibility of preloading the arch - the masters refuse liquid tips and upper forms. These technologies support outdated building standards. The formed nails are wide, slightly bent down. This is not fashionable.

Arched shapes are a good option for salon French nail extensions. They form straight narrow marigolds with a good arch, the material for their production allows you to make additional compression.

Free edge reinforcement is used in biogel extensions. This is not a very long length, only half of the natural nail bed. The advantages of this material are hypoallergenicity and solubility of materials.

Colored jacket and liquid stones

What length to prefer

Salon length - this is three quarters of the natural nail bed. Allowed to build a length equal to the nail bed. This is due to the fact that the formation of the apex must be in a certain place so that the nails have the correct architecture.

Modern materials allow artificial nails to stay on the fingers for a long time. A properly modeled nail is hard to break. Their only enemy is the mistress herself. If you miss the correction time, the apex shifts (this is the highest point) on the nail, which is constantly growing, and the apex goes to the free edge. The nails begin to bend down, and the material moves away from the cuticle.

In addition to the unsightly appearance, such nails are prone to overload. They can break, injure natural nails. Therefore, correction is an important point. It should be done in two weeks, in extreme cases - after three.

How to do a French correction

Nail extension French with regrowth will increase the length of the nail bed, which is not so easy to fix the correction. Therefore, you can give such advice: do the first extension using camouflage gel from the middle of the natural nail to the smile line, extending the bed by one or two millimeters. To form a free edge small - from 0.7 to 1.2 millimeters.

Pictures create an unusual jacket

At the first correction, reduce the length of the free edge and supplement the material in the cuticle area with a transparent pink gel. On the second correction of nail extension, the french drawings are performed in the smile area to hide the elongated nail bed. In the cuticle area, you again need to add a pink transparent gel.

By the third correction, the nail usually “pecks” down strongly, its correction will require so much sawdust that it is better to do overgrowing - it will be more accurate.

American french

For those who constantly wear French manicure, there is an interesting option for it - the American French. This is a gradual blurring of the border between the white tip and the pink nail bed. This design has many advantages: during correction, nothing needs to be fixed, just the length is filed and a pink transparent gel near the cuticle is presented.

Mother of pearl jacket

The practice of building nails is a jacket of different colors: the free edge can be blue, turquoise, red or any other. The design with the transition from one color to another is called ombre. You can even make a rainbow-colored jacket - it is very beautiful.

Actual options for 2018

Now not everyone agrees to wear a large length of the free edge of the nails, but materials for building are often used. They make repairs or strengthening, choosing a French design in nail extension.

At a short length, haze looks good, which imitates a mesh, like a veil. It happens in gray or brown tones, looks great with floral patterns and prints.

French with a veil

Using stamping has turned design into a real art. Fine lines of the pattern are imprinted on the french, and the nails are covered with impromptu lace.

In wedding design, the jacket is indispensable. There is a rule that there cannot be “too much design” for the bride. This explains the transformation of nails into precious jewelry using the technology of "casting" and "liquid stones".


It is better to rely on the master in choosing technologies for performing a French jacket. He will choose the most winning version of the simulation. As a rule, there are design samples in the cabin, and you can choose the one that you like. In order for the master’s work to please for a long time, you can come to him for a manicure and slowly discuss all issues, find out the opinions of clients and understand whether it is worth contacting him.

Often, young masters who have recently graduated from a good school make building a jacket better and faster than masters of the “old school”. Although many are now building their nails at home, the jacket requires compliance with such nuances that it is better to do it in the cabin. Otherwise, when looking at the work, an unflattering impression will appear about the hostess of cheap nails.

For building at home, it is better to draw a jacket with white gel-paint, rather than spread the material. This option looks quite neat and has a right to exist.


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