The main difference between instantaneous water heaters and boilers lies in the fact that they carry out the heating of the flow of water passing through them. Therefore, the units have a higher power. Self-manufacture of such a device will help you ensure the supply of hot water at home or in the country.
There are various device modifications. Depending on the required volume of hot water at the outlet, the sizes of the instantaneous water heater can also be different.
- The electric model. In such configurations, water is heated by a heating element, a tubular device, or a metal tube, which is exposed to an alternating magnetic field. Electric water heaters can be divided into induction and containing heating elements with a temperature controller for heating water.
- Devices functioning from the heating system. These devices do not need power. However, the fact that they are dependent on the heating system makes it impossible to use them in the summer.
- Solar devices. Such appliances receive heat from the sun. They are applicable in cottages and in private homes. These units can only work on sunny days.
- Gas modifications. The operation of these devices provides liquefied or main gas. Such devices are used in homes and apartments that have a connection to the gas pipeline.
What units can you assemble yourself?
Many are interested in how to make a flowing water heater with your own hands. Before choosing a device model, you should decide what type of tools you know how to work best. If you are familiar with welding technology, you can assemble an electrical appliance. If you intend to create a heater from the heating system, then you will need inverter welding. In the absence of such skills, you can completely cope with the assembly of the solar structure.
What is the basis of an electric heater?
A self-made instantaneous electric water heater runs on a nichrome wire with a high level of resistance. It is wound on a ceramic frame.
The induction model works differently. A thick copper bus is wound onto a metal pipe, then a voltage of 100 kilohertz is applied. The metal pipe is heated by an alternating magnetic field and heats the water.
What materials will be needed to create an electric flow heater?
How to make an instantaneous water heater that works on electricity? The assembly process of a tubular unit operating from a heating element will be described. In this case, the heater with a temperature controller for heating water has a capacity of 4 to 6 kW.
You will need:
- a piece of steel pipe into which a heater will fit with a small margin;
- two half-inch lengths of steel pipe with standard threads on one edge;
- pieces of steel in sheets whose thickness is 3 mm;
- nut and bolt for grounding;
- paint against corrosion.
What tools will be needed?
You should prepare:
- drill;
- nozzle for removing dirt and rust;
- inverter for welding;
- electrodes
- a metal brush;
- roulette wheel;
- hammer;
- sharp core;
- TEN.
The scheme of a flowing water heater, powered by electricity, is presented below.
Work stages
- Before proceeding with the collection of electrical construction, it is necessary to strip all metal parts with a grinder.
- A metal piece is taken, the size of which is larger than the diameter of the pipe. Holes for the installation of a heating element are outlined at its center. Depending on the model, it can have a power of 1 to 6 kW.
- Fasteners are removed from the heater and the desired drill bit is selected, which will be 1 mm larger than the device leg. This drill holes are made of the desired diameter. Some models of heating elements contain a threaded or smooth body designed for insertion into some device. Such a hole is cut with a drill or inverter. You can turn to a professional turner for help.
- If necessary, drill holes for the mounting bolts and thread them. A metal piece is applied to the end of the pipe so that the holes are in the middle. The shape of the pipe is outlined.
- Metal is trimmed by marking with a grinder. Then another circle is made, only without holes.
- TEN is fixed in a circle that is designed for him. Make sure all parts fit snugly together.
- The heater is removed and welded to the end of the pipe. It should be cut so that from the end of the heater to the second circle there is a distance of 2 cm.
- Next, indent from each end of the pipe by 1 cm, and a pair of holes are cut in it on one line. They correspond to the diameter of the threaded segments inside.
- Threaded sections are welded to the holes. Water will be connected to them.
- A circle with holes is welded under the heater, and a heater is installed. Then, on the other hand, a second circle is welded.
- A nut for grounding is welded at any suitable place.
- The resulting design is connected to the water supply and tap. So the device is checked for leaks. If a leak is found, it should be eliminated.
- The water heater is removed, its surface is degreased and covered with a paint resistant to rust.
- After drying the paint, you can install and connect the device.
Such a home-made instantaneous water heater is mounted using various gaskets and nuts.
Important warning
Electric water heaters need grounding. Otherwise, a person may be shocked. Before turning on the device, you should check how well the grounding is made.
Production of a device operating from a heating system
How to make a instantaneous water heater that operates from a heating system? The basis of this unit is heating the heat exchanger with a coil, which is placed in the hot coolant of the heating system. In its role, a thermal battery can act.
However, inserting such a coil into a new heat accumulator will lead to a poor result. You can damage the insulation, which will drastically reduce the level of effectiveness. The manufacture of a heat accumulator should be carried out independently. The device must be small in size. Then a heat exchanger crashes into it, and the entire structure is insulated.
What will be needed for manufacturing?
To work, you need tools:
- Bulgarian;
- drill;
- inverter for welding;
- a soldering iron with a power of at least 300 watts;
- roulette;
- compass;
- core;
- scissors for cutting metal or pruning shears;
- rivet tool.
The following materials should be prepared:
- a copper tube of copper, the diameter of which is 4-8 mm;
- necessarily need sheet steel (3 mm);
- a round mandrel of metal or wood with a diameter of 10-12 cm;
- sheet metal 5 mm thick;
- anti-corrosion paint;
- two angles of 90 degrees from a pipe half an inch;
- four half-inch pipe lengths of 10-15 cm, with a standard type of thread;
- two half-inch brass couplings with thread;
- half-inch stainless steel pipe with a diameter of more than 20 cm (part of the gas cylinder is also used);
- solder for copper and brass of medium temperature and the corresponding flux;
- fluoroplastic sealant material.
For insulation, you should prepare:
- mineral wool;
- steel corner with a shelf of 50 mm;
- iron in sheets 1 mm thick;
- rivets.
Manufacturing process
- A copper tube should be wound around the mandrel. If its diameter is less than 8 mm, then we recommend that you make a double winding. The length of the spiral should be 15-20 cm. The tube should be pulled onto itself to prevent its deformation. Do not use a mandrel with a diameter of less than 5 mm. So the tube bends and flattened.
- A pair of round plates should be cut from copper sheet. Their diameter should be the same as that of brass couplings. In the center of the plates, holes are drilled in diameter and number of tubes. Both surfaces of the plates and one of the ends of the coupling are cleaned. This is done with sandpaper.
- The medium temperature solder should solder the plates to the couplings.
- After the parts have cooled, tubes are inserted into them to a depth of 1 mm. They are soldered using a gas-fired burner, or the same solder with a flux.
- Next, the coil is connected to the water supply and water is supplied to check for leakage. If it is present, the problem must be fixed.
- In a thick pipe, it is necessary to mark a pair of holes that correspond to the coil couplings. They must be drilled so that they are 1 mm larger than the diameter of the pipe sections.
- Stainless steel pipe is cleaned from the inside and outside by a grinder. A coil is lowered into a thick pipe. It is inserted into the hole of the tube with the coil using FUM tape. Then the coupling is screwed.
- Thin pipes are soldered using a torch or solder with flux. The thin tube must not be overheated so as not to subject the FUM tape to melting.
- A pair of holes are drilled from the opposite edge of the body, and threaded pipes are welded to them.
- If there are thick pipes in the heating system, then use threaded segments of identical diameter and make a hole for their size.
- A pair of circles is cut out of sheet steel, the diameter of which should be 11 cm larger than the casing. If the water heater is not insulated, then the size of the disks must match the diameter of the casing.
- Circles are welded to both ends of the body.
- Both heating leads are connected to the water supply to check for leaks.
- The unit should be covered with a paint that prevents corrosion.
Water heater insulation
- 7-10 elbows are welded to the surface of the body so that the second shelf runs parallel to the surface of the pipe. Welding is carried out not by a continuous seam, but by means of four tacks, the length of which is 1 cm.
- From thin sheet material, a strip is cut 2 cm wide more than the distance between the end circles of the base. The length of the strip should be enough to wrap the device.
- Sides are made on both sides of the strip, the width of which is 1 cm. By means of a pruning shears or scissors for cutting metal, the edges are sawtooth. The teeth are marked with a zigzag. They should be in the shape of an equilateral triangle. The teeth on the edge of the strip, which are opposite the corner, are cut off.
- A strip is applied to the corner. Ensure its correct direction in order to turn the unit around. After installing the rivets, it will not be possible to fix errors in operation.
- Next, drill a strip and a corner. Make seven holes and fasten the parts using a riveting device.
- A piece of the required size is cut out of mineral wool and inserted between the corner to which the thin metal and the adjacent corner are attached.
- The insulation is coated with metal and secured with rivets.
- A similar operation is carried out with other corners.
List of tools for making a solar water heater model
How to make a running solar water heater?
Should be prepared:
- drill;
- stapler;
- electric jigsaw;
- device for cutting glass;
- pencil;
- roulette.
What materials will be needed?
The following materials should be prepared:
- a bar of wood with a section of 5X5 cm;
- plywood sheet with a thickness of 20 mm;
- a board 10 cm wide and 5 cm thick;
- rubber watering hose;
- foil-based insulation;
- self-tapping screws of various sizes;
- glass 3-5 mm thick;
- plywood 3-5 mm thick;
- wood slats 5 cm wide and 1 cm thick;
- knitting wire.
The basis of such a heater is a rubber hose.
Manufacturing instruction
- The basis of a rectangular shape is cut out of plywood. On the perimeter, bars are screwed to it. They are interconnected. So the design will be more durable.
- The resulting box inside is sheathed with a foil-based insulation. The foil is laid out.
- 15 cm long pieces are cut from the board. They will act as hose guides. One edge should have the shape of a semicircle. The diameter of the circle should be the same with the width of the board.
- The guides are screwed to the plywood from the side of the insulation so that the hose laid on them forms a snake. In the place of rotation of the hose, the distance between the turns should not have a larger size than its diameter.
- In the bar located below, with a jigsaw, a pair of grooves is cut for entry and exit.
- Four strips are cut from plywood, the width of which is 4 cm.
- Plywood strips are attached to the front surface of the bars so that they form a step that fixes the position of the glass.
- The water heater rises to the roof and is attached to the south side. We advise you to carry out horizontal installation. So the efficiency of the device will be higher.
- Lay the hose along the guides and secure it with eyelets from the knitting wire. They are attached to plywood. The loops should not be located above the guides, as the glass may crack.
What can be used instead of a rubber hose?
Instead of a rubber hose, a steel tube with a thickness of 5-10 mm, or a coil from an old refrigerator, can be used. Guides in this case will not be needed, however, it is necessary to bend the pipes in such a way as to achieve a turning radius of at least five diameters.
After the tube is given the appropriate shape, it is covered with a tin sheet painted with black paint, and fixed in the body of the device.
Glass is cut to size and mounted in the unit with the help of rails that are stacked on a beam. Water is connected to the water heater.
Warning
When making a water heater with your own hands, you should clearly be aware that it is only your responsibility to diagnose and check the device for malfunction. When assembling the unit, be extremely careful. Incorrect assembly can lead to unpredictable consequences.
Before the first start-up and every three months, we advise you to check the condition of the wires, contacts and welds.
Before turning on the heater, do not forget to supply water. Otherwise, the liquid in the device will begin to boil, and the electric heater based on the tubes will fail.