How to make a 3D printer with your own hands? This question is of interest to few, but there are still people who are asked. Such a device is very convenient and can be useful even in everyday life. Of course, assembling such a device is not so easy, and you also have to spend some money, but the result is worth it. In addition, a home-made version will be much cheaper, and with proper assembly it is also better in some aspects of the work.
Why choose manual option?
Here it is important to start with the fact that assembling a homemade 3D printer with your own hands is a procedure that will require a certain amount of time, and approximately 20,000 rubles. Here, many may think about why not buy a printer for 15-20 thousand already ready? The answer is quite simple. Most often these are Chinese cheap assemblies that will last a short time. The first minus is that the cases for such devices are most often made of acrylic or plywood. This will lead to a constant struggle with the stiffness of the device when printing, as well as to constant calibrations.
In addition, cases made of these materials also differ in flexibility. When printing at higher speeds, this will cause the printer to “walk”, and this will significantly affect the quality of the printed model. Most often, the owners of such models spend a lot of time, effort and money on how to strengthen / strengthen the frame. The significant difference between such a Chinese product and a self-made 3D printer made by hand is that steel can be used as a frame.
In order to successfully assemble the device, you will need a soldering iron, a set of screwdrivers, hexagons , a little knowledge of electronics and the exact following of the instructions. Subject to these simple rules, almost anyone has the opportunity to assemble such a device.
Assembly Parts
Naturally, to assemble the printer you will need different parts and tools.
The first and most important part is the frame. The heavier and more stable this element will be, the better. This will save the owner from the constant struggle with the poor quality of parts manufactured at high speeds. A steel frame from any Russian manufacturer is perfect here. The cost of the part is approximately 4,900 rubles. Here it is worth adding that the frame will come complete with all the necessary fasteners.
Separately, you should take care of the purchase of guide shafts, as well as M5 studs. Although the pictures show that they are in a set with a frame, in fact they are not there. A set of shafts consists of 6 parts. To build a 3D printer with your own hands, you will need only 1 such set worth 2,850 rubles. You can find cheaper, but you must always look for polished models. Otherwise, all the jambs of the elements will affect the quality of the printed parts.
As for the M5 studs, you need to purchase them in a couple. The price of one piece is 200 rubles. In fact, these are the most ordinary hairpins that you can buy at a hardware store. The most important thing is that they should be as even as possible. In order to check this parameter, you can put the part on the glass and roll it. The better the product will ride, the smoother it will be. Guide shafts are checked in the same way. These details are the second step you need to do to assemble your own 3D printer.
Electronic parts and mechanics for them
The next step is the acquisition of electronics. You need to buy parts such as RAMPS 1.4, Arduino Mega 2560 R3, and A4988 stepper drivers. The cost of all three parts will be approximately 1,045 rubles.
Now about everything in more detail. RAMPS 1.4 is the main expansion board for Arduino. A DIY 3D printer assembled according to such a scheme will have this board as a basis. It is to her that the remaining electronic elements, engine drivers, and more will be connected. The entire power part of the printer will be supported by this particular board. It is also worth noting that such a board does not have “brains”; there is nothing to burn there. This suggests that buying a spare part does not make sense.
Any electronics must have a brain. When assembling a 3D printer with your own hands on the Arduino 2560 R3, this part will be such. The firmware will be uploaded to this element in the future. This element is quite easy to burn, for example, if you insert the driver for the stepper motor incorrectly, reverse the polarity when connecting the limit switch. All this will lead to the board burning out, and during the first assembly, when there is no experience, this happens quite often, and therefore it is worth buying a spare.
The step drivers in such a device will be responsible for the operation of the motors. It is also recommended that you purchase one set of spare parts. There is an important detail. These devices have a tuning resistor. It should not be twisted, since it is most likely already set to the desired current.
When assembling a 3D printer on an Arduino with your own hands , it is best to take an Arduino MEGA R3 as a replacement board. The cost of the spare part is 679 rubles. As for the set of spare drivers, it is better to buy a set of 4 rather than 2 elements. They will cost 48 rubles per copy.
You will also need a step-down voltage regulator to protect the Arduino board. It will cost only 75 rubles. The operation parameters are a decrease from 12 V to 5 V. However, such electronics are very moody. It is quite hot, often out of order.
The fifth step is the acquisition of a set of stepper motors. The cost of this set is 2,490 rubles. It is worth noting that there are 5 copies in the set, and only 4 are needed to build the printer. You can, of course, look for a set of 4 pieces, but it's better to buy a complete one. One will remain as a spare, or it can be used to equip an additional extruder, to print auxiliary elements of parts, or to make products two-color.
Mechanical parts
To assemble a 3D printer with your own hands, you will definitely need a set of bearings, couplings and belts. The cost of one set is 769 rubles. Buying anything extra or spare parts does not make sense. It has everything you need for assembly.
Mechanical limiters. The details are quite small, but very important, since without them the device will not work. The price for 1 piece is 23 rubles. For successful assembly, you need only 3 copies. However, it’s worth buying four so that one is spare, just in case.
Display with integrated card reader. To assemble a 3D printer with your own hands, this thing is optional. However, this is only if all the equipment is connected to a computer and models are printed from it.
Although, as practice shows, to purchase such a display is better in any case. He has a card reader in the back, into which an SD card with models for printing is inserted. Firstly, it will help to make the device more mobile, it can be moved to any room. Secondly, printing will not be interrupted if, for example, in the middle of work, the computer shuts down or freezes. Also, the ability to work with equipment will remain, even if the PC crashes.
Of course, you need a power supply. You need to take it at 12 V. It will be slightly larger in size, but without problems it will be installed inside the case. And its capacity will be even with a margin. It costs about 1,493 rubles.
You will need a hot table. The price of this item is 448 rubles. It is worth noting that a hot table for a 3D printer, made by hand, is needed only when printing with ABS plastic. If you use PLA or any other kind that does not shrink when cooling, then heating the platform is not necessary. The table itself is required, since glass will fit on it.
Internal parts and cooling
You will need buttons and terminals for 220 V. The cost of components is 99 rubles apiece.
The important part when assembling a 3D printer with your own hands is the extruder. For this device, it is best to use a direct extruder. In other words, this element will act as a mechanism that feeds the plastic. It will be located directly under the heating element. It’s best to take the direct model, as it will allow you to work with all types of plastic without any problems. The kit has everything you need for installation. The cost of the device is 2 795 rubles.
When working with PLA and other types of slowly hardening types of plastic, you will need a cooler to blow parts. It costs only 124 rubles. When assembling a large 3D printer with your own hands, you will also need a large cooler for blowing drivers. It is necessary as it will significantly reduce the amount of noise emitted by the printer.
Another important element will be the nozzle. It costs only 17 rubles apiece, therefore it is better to take several pieces at once. In addition, replacing them when they are clogged is much easier than cleaning them. It is important to note here that the nozzle diameter affects the speed and quality of the 3D model. The larger the diameter, the more noticeable the layers, but faster printing and, conversely, the smaller the diameter, the better the quality, but the speed decreases. A sufficient diameter for good quality will be 0.3 mm.
You will also need a drill for cleaning. However, such thin consumables often break, so you need to be careful.
You will need to purchase a small set of springs for the table. There are 5 pieces in the set, and only 4 are needed for the table. The fifth is used to limit the movement of the X axis. Cost 56 rubles per set.
You will need to buy two sets for adjusting the table, each of which costs 36 rubles. Of these sets, only long bolts will be required, with which, the extruder will be mounted. In order to connect the stepper motors, you need a set of wires - 128 rubles.
The last element is a piece of plain glass on the table. Here you can order borosilicate glass, which is resistant to high temperatures.
This list is complete. Having all the parts available, you can make a 3D printer with your own hands so that the quality of the parts made on it will be practically no different from those that are manufactured on factory models. The total cost of all parts will be approximately 20,000 rubles.
DIY 3D printer assembly: step-by-step instructions
As an example of assembly, the Prusa I3 STEEL model will be used.
1. Naturally, the first step is the assembly of the frame. First you need to insert the side scarves into the steel frame. As fixing elements, M3x12 bolts are used. It is worth noting that the case has a hole for the control button. After assembly, it should be at the top right (if you look at the frame in front).
2. Next, the rear panel is assembled with an engine bracket. There is also a slight nuance. The threaded rivets for the locking elements must face the inside of the frame. First you need to insert the two parts used to mount the engine into the grooves in the center. M3x12 bolts are also used as fixation. A plastic spacer is inserted between the fasteners.
3. After the rear panel is assembled, it can be mounted on the main frame. We fix all the same bolts. Before proceeding with the installation of the front wall, it is worth installing stiffeners.
4. Next is the installation of the front panel. The threaded connection should also face the inside of the frame. During assembly, use M3x12 bolts and one M3x35 bolt. A 608zz bearing is also used, which is spaced by M8 washers. An M8x25 bolt is inserted here, which is fixed with a cap nut.
5. After that, the tensioner is attached to the front wall of the frame. The finished structure is fixed to the body with bolts.
6. The next step is assembling the carriage for the heating mold. For mounting, the LM8uu model bearing must be installed in the grooves. They are fixed using clamping plates. They, in turn, are tightened with M3x12 bolts. To comply with such an important parameter as the alignment of the bearings, it is recommended to first install the shaft, and only then tighten the fixing screws. In order to fix the fixing belt you need to use M3x20 screws, as well as hexagonal racks. First, the screws are inserted, and only then the racks are mounted. Next, a plate is attached that fixes the belt and nuts like M3 are tightened.
7. The next item is the installation of shafts L = 395 in the front wall of the frame. They put on the carriage for the table and pushed to the end into the back wall. Front and rear shafts are fixed with pressure plates. Used screws type M3x16. If it is necessary to distance the pressure plate, then washers can be used.
8. Next, you need to proceed to the assembly of the right carriage for the X axis. To do it yourself according to the instructions of the 3D printer, do the following. Used screws M3x12. Need to install the LM8uu bearings in the grooves. They are fixed with plastic ties, 2 pieces for each part. To fix a bearing model such as 608zz, use an M8x25 bolt and a cap-type nut.
9. The left carriage for the same axis as the carriage for the extruder is assembled in the same way. Here it is worth paying attention that the bearings at the extruder carriage should be turned inward and not outward, as in the carriages for the X axis.
Assembly recommendations
The complete instruction is much more, however, this is the foundation, which is very important to assemble correctly. It is also very important to note that there are some additions that have been studied by trial and error of the previous masters.
Firstly, a self-assembled 3D printer does not require the use of type 625z bearings for attaching end bearings. Therefore, they should not be ordered. Lead screws are best left in the "free float". This will help get rid of a defect called wobbling. Further, when assembling carriages, images often use a black steel spacer. However, in the kit of the frame itself, such a part is usually not. Instead, there are plastic bushings, which you need to use.
Another important point that concerns the fastening of the trailer for the Y axis. It must not be mounted to the rear wall, but to the front. If you do not, then all models will be printed in a mirror image. It will not work to fix this in the firmware of the printer itself. In order to carry out the transfer, you need to re-solder the terminal to the back of the board.
The assembly instructions do not present the type of extruder that was previously purchased according to plan. However, the essence of its attachment remains the same. The only difference is that you will have to use long bolts for this, which you need to take from the table mount kit. There are no bolts that are so long to use in the frame kit.
Regarding the correct assembly of electronics. When connecting the RAMPS and Arduino parts, there is an important part that is rarely written in the instructions, but it is very important in order to keep the printer running smoothly in the future. To do this, you need to disconnect the arduino from the power that was originally supplied to it from the RAMPS board. This is done very simply. The diode responsible for this function is soldered or cut off from the board.
It is necessary to solder the voltage regulator to the power input, which is initially set to 5 V. You can fix the regulator where it will be most convenient for the person who collects the device. In some DIY 3D printer assembly guides, a thread may appear as the right element for connecting something.
Using the appliance
You need to understand that the correct assembly is not enough to successfully operate a fairly complex printer mechanism. It is necessary to carry out preparatory work. You must have official firmware from 3D - diy.
The process of filling the program is carried out using the Arduino IDE 1.0.6. After that, on the printer’s display, press the Auto Home button. Then you need to convince that the limit switches were connected correctly, and that the correct polarity for the step changers was observed. If the movement is directed in the opposite direction from the desired one, then you just need to turn the terminal, which is located near the motor, 180 degrees. If, after turning on the printer, an unpleasant whistle is heard, then most likely these are steps. To get rid of this squeak, you need to tighten the tuning resistors on them.
It is recommended to start printing models from PLA plastic. It is distinguished by the fact that it is not “naughty” during work, and it also perfectly sticks to blue tape, which is sold in hardware stores.
Why the base of the Prusa I3 model was used:
- As a printing material, you can use any type of plastic or flexible rod.
- The model is considered the simplest in its assembly, maintenance and repair.
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It is best to assemble a home-made model on the basis of ready-made ones, as was the Prusa i3. However, here, of course, one will have to use another model as the initial one. An example of assembling an Ultimate Maker or Signum printer is a good fit. The case is assembled from sheet materials. Next, you need to start manufacturing the X and Y axes. Some instructions say that it is best to use aluminum corners for this. However, if the suitable material is not at hand or it is impossible to buy, then you can replace aluminum with plywood 4 mm thick.
Finally
Thus, today the topic: "Do-it-yourself 3D-printer", which has recently risen extremely rarely, is now not just much in demand. Masters learned to make such devices on their own. The main advantages of home models is that they cost several times cheaper than ready-made factory ones. In addition, the quality of printed models in some cases is not inferior to anything, and may be better than that of factory equipment. Most often, this is noticeable when comparing cheap Chinese devices with homemade ones. So we hope that now everyone can assemble a DIY 3D printer if necessary. A step-by-step instruction presented in the review will help with this.