It is hard to imagine, but in the history of our Fatherland there was a time when a button could cost more than the clothes themselves, and was a highly artistic delicate piece of jewelry. The first clasps resembling her appeared in the third millennium BC. And the ancestors of the Russian buttons are known, according to archaeological finds, since the sixth century. In the article we will study in more detail the buttons-weights, their history, structure and significance.
general information
These types of buttons are found literally everywhere where a person previously visited or lived. Most, of course, have been excavated at the locations of settlements where, almost anywhere near the remains of the old foundation, you can find small metal buttons.
The old furniture got its name due to its shape and relatively large mass. The weight of one button can reach several grams. Each clasp consists of two main components - an ear and a small knob in the form of an egg or even an acorn. Therefore, in some sources, such accessories symbolize fertility.
The main functions of the buttons
In history, this type of hardware served as an identification mark. For the old clothes of ministers and people who are vested with authority, departmental buttons were used. Such a fastener directly judged to which category and to which state institution its carrier belonged.
During the reign of Nicholas I, special departmental buttons were introduced. Such fasteners were visually different and had their own character for each category: from the gatekeeper to the chancellor. It is interesting that many variations of symbolism have survived to this day: oak branches - the designation of the forester, anchor - the symbol of the fleet, etc.
Who owned the buttons
The materials from which the clasps are made also had their own special symbolism. Noble metal buttons were sewn onto officers' clothes. Pewter, bronze, copper and brass buttons were used for outfits of ordinary soldiers. The generals in military service wore buttons with an eagle, and representatives of the royal families used clasps with a crown on the outside of the fittings.
Magical meaning
In the modern world, hardly anyone remembers and understands that in the past, a wooden, tin or silver button-weight was one of the main magical amulets that were used to scare away evil power. According to the judgment of our ancestors, the gates of all kinds of outfits are a very important element of clothing in terms of mysticism, because the most exposed to evil spirits were open parts of the body - hands, neck and face. In this regard, the first fasteners were sewn on the collar and sleeves, as well as decorated with charmed patterns, which were used to scare away evil spirits.
In fact, ancient Russian buttons-weights that decorated the collars of shirts are quite frequent archaeological finds. In most cases, there are symbols of the sun - a spiral or a circle, inside of which there is a dot in the middle. Signs of land and arable land are much less common.
The magical nature of the button was determined by three signs:
- drawings, for example, patterns, etc .;
- the shape and shape of the fasteners (for example, the shape of an egg, which is considered a symbol of fertility);
- color fittings.
Button Symbols
More often, such ornaments are observed on the fastener-weights - a circle and circles evenly diverging from it, a hexagram, a point or several points simultaneously applied, a square, a triangle, a clover flower. The meaning of geometrically correct symbolism and motifs, like a triangle, a circle and a cross, turns out to be the same for different nations: the sun, life, fire and earth. These symbols are rooted in antiquity.
Consider the meaning of other symbols that were previously applied to wooden, metal and bone buttons.
- A spiral or circle in the middle of which a dot is located - the most common symbol of the sun. This is understandable: sunlight drives away the forces of darkness. The circle is the earliest symbolic sign of unity and infinity, absolute and perfection.
- The triangle denotes birth, life and death, as well as the beginning, middle and end of something. In some cases, this symbolism is interpreted as the triune principle of man: spiritual, physical and mental.
- Cross-shaped accessories - symbolically denotes the cardinal points, four elements of nature.
- The five-pointed star is considered a fairly powerful amulet of plenty. The sacred and for many lucky number five is indicated by the sign of completeness (a person has five senses, five fingers on each of the limbs, etc.).
- The hexagon or hexagram, known today as the “Star of David,” is a symbol of perfection, since the world was created by God in six days.
The history of the weight buttons
Clasps in the form of weights are a rather ordinary find for medieval Russian settlements. The accessories are sewn by the ear to one side of the clothes, on the second side of the outfit a loop of braid was attached. A weight button was threaded through the loop, and the joint was thus well fixed. The same principle is used in China to fasten their robes. But there is one difference: a bundle of threads or a bundle is knitted as a button.
Buttons-weights of the same type and size are found in all medieval settlements. And in the Volga city of Bolgar, and in Saray-Berke, cases of the detection of such accessories are also recorded. Mostly the buttons had a spherical shape. All such fasteners date mainly from the 14th-15th centuries.
Button Making Materials
Most often, accessories were made in those days from gold, silver, tin and copper alloys, natural bone, wood, which could be covered with fabric. Often are situations of using leather, mother of pearl, pearls, ornamental and precious stones, crystal and glass.
Buttons-weights in the archaeological finds prevail bronze and copper, but many historians believe that such metals are simply better preserved in the earth. Buttons made from simple materials at hand, such as bone or even wood, are more common in everyday life. Sometimes weights are found that are decorated with tassels and other decorative elements. Most of the finds are cast buttons, which are made of copper alloys and a mixture of tin and lead. Many weights buttons are engraved with geometric patterns. In archaeological finds, bronze and copper fittings prevail, which are very well preserved in the ground.
Features of the button stripe
In pre-Petrine Russia, fasteners on clothes served as a kind of "calling card" of their holder. The number of buttons, the shape, signs and patterns printed on them could tell about the situation of a person, about his merits, proximity to power. To each along, a strictly defined number of fasteners was supposed:
- 3, 8, 10, 11, 12, 13 or 19 buttons were sewn to long-length outerwear;
- to winter outerwear made of natural fur - 8, 11, 13, 14, 15, 16 and more buttons on the leg.
The largest number of fasteners was supposed to have on a crucible. This type of clothing is a quilted caftan worn by warriors.
Cost
Surely many collectors are interested in the price of old buttons. Regarding the cost of rare items, it is difficult to say something definite, because buttons, like coins, have a specific denomination, year of manufacture and variety of weights. In determining the value of the button, it all depends on how often they are found, as well as on the desire of the collector to buy a particular instance.
Conditionally, accessories can be divided into three main types:
- The first type is simple and often found fasteners. In 95% of situations you can see just such buttons. Distinctive feature: smooth base or flat base with a circular ornament. These buttons distinguish between solid and hollow. The cost of such rare clasps is 10-20 rubles apiece.
- The second type of buttons has a complex pattern and shape, interspersed with colored stones, enamel or glass elements. The cost of such valuable fittings is 100-500 rubles.
- The third type is buttons released before the 15-16th century. Such fasteners are not particularly attractive, and only their antiquity is interesting for collectors. The approximate cost of 500-2000 rubles.
In conclusion, it is worth saying about the cleaning of rare buttons. Regardless of the material, weights may be washed using soap and a toothbrush under running hot water. Chemical cleaning and especially electrolysis are not used so as not to spoil the surface of the buttons.