Lengthening the nail plate is an ordinary operation for the nail master. In the process of developing this area of manicure, new technologies and types of extended nails appeared. Materials more and more adapted to the embodiment of any ideas of the master, and gradually modeling of nails became an art.
New forms of artificial nail plates are constantly being created. All of them are highly durable and comfortable to wear. A properly formed nail is difficult to break, as it has a well-thought-out architecture. Compliance with the laws of the construction of the arch is the key to long wearing extended nails.
What are artificial nails?
The main types of extended nails are the following forms:
- Square.
- Oval.
- Almond.
- Stylet.
Each form has its own varieties, which also have their own names. A square, for example, can be with slightly rounded tips and a slightly curved free edge line. Then it is called “Soft Square”. At nail styling contests this is an unacceptable form, as judges determine the quality of the material laying out according to clear lines. But for everyday wear, competitive squares are uncomfortable: they cling to tights, scratch kids, break off. Therefore, a soft square is a salon form.
The same can be said of the stylet. A classic stylet is by definition a long form. It is enough to recall this edged weapon. Such nails will bring a lot of trouble in everyday life. A simple sawing of the free edge of the stylet at the length of one centimeter will form the “Ballerina” shape. This is also a salon option unrecognized by the classics, beautiful and original. It looks great on the design.
Apex
All types of nail extensions are united by the rule of constructing the apex - the highest point of the modeled nail, in which the longitudinal and transverse arches intersect. In order for the artificial material to hold well on a natural nail, adhesion (adhesion to keratin of the nail) is not good enough. A properly formed nail has a curved shape in cross section called the C-curve. The volume of the calculation along the entire length of the nail also forms a bend - longitudinal.
If the C-bend in modern modeling is symmetrical and makes up about 50% of the circle, then the longitudinal bend has the highest point not in the middle of the length, otherwise the structure would be too heavy and prone to breakage. Depending on the length of the natural nail plate, this point is located either above the middle of the natural nail, or slightly closer to the cuticle. It is called balance.
If you look at the artificial nails from the side, you can see how the line, rising from the cuticle, further runs parallel to the axis of the nail or gradually descends to the free edge.
Oval shape
Among all types of extended nails, the most classic is the oval. This form is suitable for both young and old ladies. It looks good on wide nail plates and remarkably on narrow, comfortable to wear, easy to adjust. No wonder she doesn't go out of style.
Designs look great on this form, especially textured ones that imitate natural surfaces, wool, leather, velor. A cameo is performed on it - usually a flower or a girl’s head framed by a carved frame. Then the nails become decoration.
Almond Shape
To build the stylet, the auxiliary form is slightly lowered down. Then, when laying out, a beautiful line of longitudinal bending is formed, and when forming the free edge, the side lines are parallel to the axis of the finger. Otherwise, the nails will spring.
This graceful shape resembles an almond nut: on the side of the cuticle, it has an oval end, and narrows to the free edge. Unlike the outlines of natural almonds, artificial nails have a more elongated shape. By tightening the arch, the nails become narrower and more beautiful.
Classic almonds are built on the basis of the equal length of the free edge and the nail bed. In the case when the nail bed is naturally short, it is lengthened. In modern methods, this operation is included in all types of extended nails.
Square Shape
On the basis of this classical form, avant-garde nail models are built: Monroe, Pipe, Bridget and others. If an ordinary square has a semicircular transverse arch and right angles of the free edge, then these new shapes appear in the arch, beveled at an angle of 45 degrees or more, the free edge line is added, material is added in the stress zone.
When viewed from above, the shape of the nails may resemble almonds or a stylet, but the side view of the extended nails reveals edges, so that the shape resembles a square. In the construction of each avant-garde model there are subtleties that lie in the correct formulation of the auxiliary form or template.
Pipe Form
This form is modeled artificially; it cannot be made from natural nails. The cost of such nails will be much more expensive than conventional salon extension. It will also take more time - from four hours. The ability of a manicurist to build the correct architecture of the “Pipe” form is a kind of quality mark.
This form has many advantages: perfect lines, the ability to run on any nails, even the shortest. Due to the strong stiffening ribs, it is practical and convenient. In translation pipe - "tube". Fingers with long nails of this shape look perfect: graceful, thin, with narrow nail plates. But after the set time, you will have to overshoot the nails, since the correction of this form is not done.
The transverse bending of the nail is from 50 percent or more, the free edge is similar to a tube. When substituting an auxiliary paper form, make sure that it lifts up a little. So after laying the material, the edges of the nail will become parallel, otherwise they may bend down. The free edge is filed in the shape of an oval, square or stylet.
Acrylic or a suitable gel of a new generation will be required to complete the form. On tips this form does not. The sides of the artificial nail are pressed with forceps during the polymerization process, achieving a beautiful C-bend.
Stiletto form
This form, initially difficult, has varieties. These are two- and trihedral surfaces. There are classic stilettos, even and smooth, but they do not already cause such a delight.
In 2018, the fashion for this form was revived, but now it is not enough to complete the white jacket. Long and narrow nails require imitation of metal surfaces. Three-sided stilettos are the best suited for this idea.
Age and Bridget Forms
Modeling the nails of the Age form requires painstaking adherence to all the intricacies of construction. Even with external resemblance, nails that are correctly aligned and those in which mistakes are made cannot be distinguished on the basis of only their appearance. Violation of modeling technology will lead to damage to the nails, often with an injury to the nail bed.
When viewed from the side, properly extended nails show free edge lines parallel to the axis of the finger. To do this, the auxiliary form is set up a little pulled up. A sufficient material thickness is laid on it to form a strong stiffener. The balance point should also have enough material underneath.
Where the nail bed passes into the central face, the upper form of the artificial nail is similar to the lower. The side faces can be of different widths, they do not affect the strength.
During socks, the balance point shifts, but still remains within the boundaries of the natural nail plate. This protects the nail from breakage and cracking.
The Bridget shape has two faces and three planes, with the third located in the center and tapering towards the end of the free edge. When viewed from above, such nails resemble stilettos. The inner arch is triangular, the outer one is trapezoidal.
Monroe Form
The Monroe shape has three faces, but its upper face does not converge at one point, but has some free edge line. When viewed from above, the nails seem to be a truncated stylet. It was developed by the Ukrainian master of modeling, carefully analyzing the laws by which arched structures are built. The connection of architects and designers made it possible to create a perfectly durable structure, with thin edges and high aesthetics.
Auxiliary forms are substituted by a slightly raised edge. So during the laying out of the material, a large volume will be created in the stress zone. The transverse arch of the free edge is not created during polymerization using forceps, but immediately. To do this, the auxiliary form is tightened. If you look at the template from the end, you can see a thin oval. During polymerization, the sides of the nail are pressed in the stress zone.
Modern form
This form consists of two: "Stylet" and "Pipe". Its author is an American manicurist. Top view - stylet, side view - square. Often the free edge is cut off at an angle of 45 degrees, and the side faces are a bit like a butterfly. The next form is called that.
Butterfly Shape
A side view of the extended nails of this shape resembles butterfly wings. The corresponding design creates the complete impression that these cute insects flutter their wings on the tips of the nails. In fact, the author called this form “Blade”, but the name “Butterfly” turned out to be stronger.
Materials and Technologies
All of the above types of nails, grown with gel, are created using templates. When choosing a material, some masters combine acrylic and gel technologies. But the vast majority still work with gel. Now there are gels of different characteristics: for laying out the free edge, for stiffening the structure, colored soft gels and building strong structures.
When filling out a template, gel properties such as shape retention are important. If it is too liquid, it will be impossible for them to work on large surfaces - it will flow onto the cuticle, and will lie unevenly on the lateral sides. Therefore, to build complex structures, high-quality gels are necessary, and this is not cheap.
At the end of the stylet, to give additional strength, fill with a small ball of acrylic. The gel in such a place may not dry out completely, while acrylic will not fail.
Reviews of the masters and their clients
In order to increase not just the length, but to create a work of art on the nails, the masters constantly improve their skills. All the time, wearing ordinary ovals and squares bothers, and then it's time to try the avant-garde forms of extended nails. Names and reviews about them are directly proportional to originality. The more complex the form, the less often it occurs, the better customers respond to it.
The most convenient, according to many, the form of "Monroe". It is well worn, retains decorative for a long time. If desired, it can be decorated with a modest design. But even the office jacket on it looks festive. The second most popular form was Pipe. Varieties of it already exist with and without faces, with a vertical oval in the cross section of the free edge, with different widths of the side faces.
For the design of extended nails, ideas embodied in such forms are very advantageous: any fantasy can be realized. So, having appeared first at competitions before the jury, these forms gradually leave the podium in our life.
Conclusion
Photos of extended nails, types and names given in this article do not exhaust all the variety. Every year the old form is improved or a new one appears. There is a fashion for the length, shape and design of nails. And, although naturalness has been in fashion for several years, the ability to simulate perfect nails attracts many. The twenty-first century brought with it the need for a good manicure. Try one of the modern arched shapes and feel at the forefront.