Going on a hike, not knowing how to tie a reliable knot, is unjustified to risk your life. For a long time, people have invented several reliable techniques. So, everyone has heard the sea - perhaps the most popular. But is it the most reliable?
As you know, tourist nodes are no less strong. You can safely trust them with your life. And the best of them are climbing. Tying them is not easy, but you can learn this. The main thing is to know the scheme. If you plan your first trip in life, and even without an experienced instructor, you must definitely bring along several printed knitting patterns with notes on the purpose of each of them. It is possible this will save a life.
Node history
The Austrian conductor - a knot, also called the "middle knot", is widely used in mountaineering. This is how fasteners are organized along the base rope, and also fix the middle in a bunch. It is for this purpose that the node got its name.
The main feature that distinguishes the butterfly from the widely applicable figure eight is free pulling in both directions. In addition, such a knot is quite easy to untie. There will be no slippage, even if a very strong jerk occurs for one of the two ropes.
Key features of the Austrian conductor node:
- ease of untying even after removing a very significant load;
- efficiency in three directions;
- stability (will not drag on and will slip);
- Climber rope safety margin.
Like any other node, the butterfly has several important drawbacks. In particular, it will not be possible to tie it if only one hand is free, it is difficult to cope if it is impossible to remove the gloves, which is especially important to consider in mountaineering. The size of the resulting loop is not easy to change. In addition, visually it will not be possible to determine whether it was correctly tied. Finally, an important feature is that the ends of the ropes do not hang in parallel, but diverge at an angle.
How to tie a knot
So, an Austrian guide (knot) can save life in the mountains. How to knit it correctly? You can make an average node for the first time if there is a clear and understandable diagram in front of your eyes, and better of all - video instruction. Briefly, the sequence of actions is as follows:
- the rope is wrapped twice around the palm of the hand;
- at the end of the first turn, the rope must be moved closer to the tips of the fingers;
- the rope should be wrapped until its tip is behind the thumb;
- from the outside, you need to pick up the rope, and then under the coils skip the loop from the bottom;
- the rope is removed from the palm of your hand;
- the loop is tightened.
Where is the node used?
The Austrian conductor is a knot, in demand, when it is necessary to make an additional point on the rope for fasteners or strengthen the place where the force will be applied.
This is the best option for securing the load. The average participant in the bunch is also insured by means of such a fastening.
What other climbing nodes are known
Beginning tourists are very interested in what are the tourist nodes with names, their production schemes. All climbing fasteners can be divided into three large groups:
- strapping;
- for tying ropes;
- auxiliary.
The node described in the article belongs to the binding category. In addition to him, this includes the figure eight, a pancake. The first gives a durable loop that is easy to untie. The eight is tied either in the middle or at the end, and the technique is suitable for thin and thick climbing ropes. The strength of the material due to the node does not change.
A bowline is used at the ends of the rope. It is necessary for chest harness and is used if you need to fix the rope on a tree or stone.
Linking ropes is most often done by a direct knot. If a force is applied to the rope, the ends will be pulled into the fastener structure by several centimeters. If the material gets wet, it will be very difficult to untie the straight knot.
A good option for tying ropes - Flemish knots for mountaineering. In this case, the running ends of the ropes are folded in parallel and a figure eight is tied. This is a very strong joint, which even with strong tension will not spoil the material. It is not difficult to untie him; there is no slip on the rope; Suitable also for synthetic material.
Of the two simple ones, the so-called weaving knot can be combined . The strapping is made by running ends directed towards each other. It is suitable if you have to tie ropes whose thickness is approximately equal. If the tension is very strong, the loop is tightened so that it cannot be untied.
If you need to connect the auxiliary and the main rope, a bram-clew knot comes to the rescue . It is reliable, simple, has an important advantage: it will not be a problem to untie it.
There are a lot of auxiliary nodes in mountaineering. Particularly widespread:
- noose
- a simple bayonet;
- stirrup;
- grasping;
- WIAA;
- double reef.
The most reliable site
As experienced tourists and climbers say, the most reliable knot, if there are two ropes to be tied together, is grapevine. Tie it right away will not work - it is difficult to perform, but safety provides the highest class. Such a knot, if a load was applied to the rope, is very tightened. It is suitable for tying ropes of the same thickness or different. In addition to mountaineering, the node was widely used in fishing, where it is used on fishing line.
Braces, loops - all this is reasonable to knit with grapevine. But it should be understood that if such a knot dragged on, there was no chance to untie it. Among all related nodes, it has a maximum strength level of 56%, which means that the rope practically does not suffer.
By the way, if in some part it has lost strength due to damage, it is cut, and then the ends are tied with grapevine - this is the safest and most reliable option. However, I must admit, the Austrian conductor is a site that is almost as reliable as grapevine.
Schemes of tourist nodes
Below are the tourist nodes with names, patterns by which you can learn to knit the nodes that are common in modern mountaineering and mountain tourism.
Butterfly:
Another instruction is the third node :
Fishing and tourist site :
And remember - the beauty of nature is open to everyone.
Safety to you in the mountains!