Georgia is famous for its art, inexhaustible energy and unique color. Over the centuries, a surprising symbiosis of eastern, European and Georgian traditions has formed in the country. Local craftsmen created to this day create unique things and jewelry. Georgian enamel is especially famous. It will be discussed in our article.
National jewelry
At all times, the beautiful half of humanity loved to wear jewelry. Now it is customary to say that diamonds are the girls' best friends. But not in Georgia. Since ancient times, local women have valued the Georgian author’s minankari. Such jewelry is very distinctive and beautiful. They can be worn at a social event, birthday, friendly party, or worn every day. And the best gift for the girl just can not come up with. Over the centuries, enamel art has reached certain heights. And to this day in Georgia there are a huge number of salon-workshops in which you can not only purchase a colored product, but also see a whole master class on its manufacture.
Cloisonne
In the nineteenth century, there was a special rise in the culture of Georgia. It was during this period that the unique ancient techniques were recreated and new ones developed. Progress did not pass by the world-famous technique of Georgian enamel, called cloisonne. Jewelry made in this style is striking in its bright beauty and sophistication.
It is hard to imagine, but the manufacturing method has remained unchanged for twelve centuries. Such jewelry can rightly be called a work of art in Georgia. The cost of jewelry is not inferior to products with precious stones.
Cloisonne enamel is a complex and costly enamel technique, which to this day is not amenable to mechanization. Perhaps this is its value and uniqueness. If the technique could be mechanized, then the decorations would cease to be original and unique. Minanakari is an integral part of Georgian culture.
A bit of history
Enamel technology has been used for a long time, even in Ancient Greece and Rome, where gold jewelry was coated with special substances. Historians consider Cyprus (the tenth century BC) to be the birthplace of enamel art. In those days, they began to use primitive techniques to create jewelry. Gradually, art became increasingly popular.
Methods and techniques for the coating of metal enamel gradually developed. In the ancient Celts, for example, there was a notched enamel, it was later that it would be called cloisonne.
Enamel is called a thin glassy coating, which is obtained by melting glass powders with the addition of various metals that give different shades on the finished product.
Heyday of art
The heyday of cloisonne enamel jewelry came in the Middle Ages. The main center for the development of technology was Byzantium. And Georgia was the closest neighbor and always experienced a significant influence on the Byzantine culture, so local masters quickly adopted amazing skills. Already in those days, Georgian enamel had its own characteristics. The products of local masters were characterized by a special style, which has been preserved to this day.
In the future, technology was forgotten for a while. And only in the nineteenth century did the rapid revival of enameled cloisonne art take place. The Georgian Museum of Art presents a large collection of icons, crosses and jewelry made using this technique by medieval craftsmen.
Museum exhibits
Examples of silverware with enamel were scattered throughout the churches and monasteries of Georgia. Unfortunately, not all of them survived to the present day, since many temples repeatedly plundered and set on fire. Many works disappeared without a trace or were destroyed. But those decorations and icons that have survived are stored not only in the museums of the country, but also in the Hermitage, private collections and even the Metropolitan Museum of Art.
Most of the monuments of cloisonne enamel art are dated to the 8-12th centuries. Such a venerable age of products did not affect their beauty and charm. Among the objects there are later works - the period of the 15-17th centuries.
First products
It is worth noting that in earlier times jewelry art developed only within the framework of a religious trend: painting of icons, temples, crosses and religious paraphernalia. And only in the sixteenth century, art went beyond the church and took on a secular character. Since the original art did not depart from religion, artists did not use complex abstractions. Ancient masters did not bother with the imposition of halftones. They made their drawings more vivid so that the icons could be seen in the dark temples.
But time passed, and with the production of secular jewelry, technology requirements changed.
Enamel Technology
For the production of modern jewelry, a technique is still used that has not changed for twelve centuries. In addition, the glue formulation remains unchanged, with which they are fastened to the metal base of the partition. A solution is prepared according to an old recipe - based on quince peel.
Enamel itself is currently purchased abroad, since there are enterprises that specialize in the production of enamel paints for more than two hundred years. It is hard to imagine, but such paints have an incredibly wide palette. In total, there are more than 200 shades. It is worth noting that enamel paints are very difficult to use, since each color requires its own temperature.
As the basis on which the partitions are mounted, products made of jewelry metals are used. Silver is often made with enamel. However, modern technology allows the use of numerous alloys as a basis.
Georgian enamel is characterized by traditional, very bright ornaments. Most often, masters use marsh and wine shades.
Steps for creating jewelry
Currently, in Georgia, craftsmen are also making jewelry using old technology, but on more modern alloys. Precious metals are not always used to make jewelry using the Minankari technology. Bracelets, rings, earrings can be made of high-quality alloys, on which enamel is subsequently applied.
The process of creating jewelry consists of several stages. A metal product made of silver, copper or cupronickel is taken as the basis, then the contour of the future drawing is applied to it, after which thin metal partitions that form the cells are attached. Artists fill each such small cell with enamel of different shades. After the prepared product is fired in a special furnace, polished and polished. At first glance, the process may seem incredibly simple. In fact, this is not so. The process of applying partitions to metal is very painstaking and complex, especially if the pattern is not simple. For example, it may take a couple of days to create one silver ring, and several months to work on another product. It all depends on the complexity of the picture. Some masters of their craft compare their work with the painstaking and careful movements of neurosurgeons.
The opinion of modern experts
According to experts studying the cloisonne enamel technology, modern techniques are significantly different from the ancient ones. They are generally difficult to compare. Nowadays, silver is most often used to make jewelry using this technology. Rings, earrings and bracelets are all that are always in demand. The cost of such products is quite high due to the complexity of the work. But, for example, the ancestors tried to work only with gold items, and high-grade metal was used. Silver and gold have completely different melting factors. And this means that metals in different ways come in contact with enamel. Silver is less compatible with enamel than gold.
The latter is ideal for applying cloisonne enamel. But with silver products, everything is much more complicated. To work with them, modern masters have come up with a new counter-enamel technology. Production looks a little different. The silver product is sprinkled with enamel, and then burned. This is done for strength. After applying a second layer of enamel on top.
Cell technology itself is also different. Ancient craftsmen fastened them to the base using soldering. Now the partitions are fixed on the basis of the same enamel. Next, the product is fired in a furnace, and the molten mass firmly holds the cell.
Currently in Georgia there are a lot of workshops for the production of cloisonne enamel. They make a variety of jewelry: wristbands for women, rings, earrings, pendants and much more. Many graduates of art academies stop at work on cloisonne enamel.
Modern enamels
Now in Georgia there are a lot of jewelry that are popular among tourists. Buying a bracelet on a woman’s hand or a ring is not a problem. Such a practical souvenir gift will be appreciated by any girl, especially if it is made using the cloisonne enamel technique. However, it should be understood that modern masters have gone far from their ancestors. Not only materials and technologies have changed, but the enamel itself.
If ancient masters covered products with a layer of paint from one to three millimeters, now enamel thickness reaches only 0.5 mm. The European enamels used in the work are designed for thin application. In the old days, exclusively natural minerals and materials were used to prepare color coatings. But modern technology dictates completely different conditions.
Instead of an afterword
Modern jewelry is not always diverse and unique. They, like other accessories, are subject to fashion trends. And yet, every woman dreams of having at her disposal special jewelry, albeit not very precious. If you happen to visit Georgia, be sure to pay attention to the enamel jewelry. By purchasing such a product, you will become the owner of an original and original item that is not subject to changes in fashion trends. Bright jewelry will be the best complement to your image.