The K2 summit is a suitable name for the mountain, which became the second highest in the world after the Jomolungma, and the degree of danger after Annapurna. Beautiful and desirable, she takes a quarter of lives in relation to the number of those daredevils who conquer her. Few reach the peak, but the failures and death of their predecessors do not frighten the most desperate. The chronicle of ascents to its highest point is the story of victories, defeats, retries and the hopes of the most aspiring and strong climbers.
Title and Height
The working designation, which later took root, was given a peak by pure chance. In 1856, a researcher and cartographer, British Army officer Thomas Montgomery, during an expedition to the Karakoram mountain range, marked on the map two peaks that were seen in the distance: K1, which later became Masherbrum, and K2 - a technical name, which, as it turned out much later, was so successful corresponds to the top. Chogori is the second formal name for the K2 peak, which means High (Great) Mountain in translation from the Western Tibetan dialect.
Until August 1987, the peak was considered the highest on the planet, since the measurements until then were approximate (8858 - 8908 m). An accurate determination of the height of Everest (8848 m) and Chogori (8611 m) was given by Chinese topographers, after which K2 lost its leadership. Although back in 1861, the same indicators were indicated by the first European to climb the K2 slope, the officer of the British army, Godwin Austin.
First climb
The 1902 expedition to conquer the summit of K2 was led by the British Oscar Eckenstein, known in the history of mountaineering for the fact that he invented an ice ax and cats, the design of which is still applicable. After five serious and costly attempts, the team reached 6525-meter height, having spent a total of 68 days in the highlands, which was an unconditional record at that time.
First shot
The second ascent to the peak By 2 1909 brought grief to fame. Prince Ludwig Abrucki, a passionate and experienced climber, financed and led the Italian expedition, which reached the 6250-meter mark. Professional photographer Vittorio Sell, a member of the group, made sepia photographs. They are still considered one of the most beautiful images of Chogori. The expedition became world famous thanks to a public demonstration of pictures and, which became winged in the press, the statement of Prince Abruzzi that if anyone conquers the summit, it will be aviators, not climbers. That climb remained memorable, also assigned the names of the objects: Sella Pass, Abruzzi ridge, Savoy Glacier.
First death tribute
The American expedition of 1939 had excellent chances to overcome the Great Mount K 2, but Chogori is unpredictable and treacherous. The leader of the group, German Weisner with the conductor Pasang, had to overcome 230 m to the highest point. Sunny weather prevented us, turning the last leg of the journey into solid ice, and climbing cats with some equipment were lost the day before. Climbers walked without oxygen, and at an altitude of 8380 m it was impossible to stay for a long time. Having not won, Weisner and Pasang had to go down to the camp, set up at an altitude of 7710 m.
There they were waiting for only one member of the Dudley F. Wolffie group, who had a mountain sickness, and besides, he remained on cold, dry rations for two days. Exhausted by fatigue, the three of them continued to descend to an even lower camp, which they reached at dusk. On the spot it turned out that there was no bivouac equipment. Covering themselves with a tent tent and putting their feet in one sleeping bag, they survived that night. But Dudley became very ill, he could not continue the descent and decided to stay so that he could wait for the help sent by the Sherpas (porters) for him.
Weisner and Pasang reached the base camp half-dead from exhaustion and fatigue. Four Sherpas were sent for Dudley, but he, giving in to deep apathy, a sign of developing cerebral edema, gave the porters a written assurance that he refused to continue the descent and wanted to stay in the camp. A few days it took the Sherpas to rise and return with a note. By that time, Dudley had already spent about two weeks at an altitude exceeding 7000 m. Weisner again sent three porters for Dudley, but no one returned from them. After 63 years, the Spanish-Mexican expedition found the remains of Dudley, which were transferred to his relatives for burial.
Weisner was denied American Alpine Club membership and blamed for the death of four expedition members. Weisner himself, while in the hospital with frostbite, could not speak out in defense. However, after 27 years he was awarded the title of honorary member of the club.
K2 Memorial
The next expedition of 1953, also an American one, spent ten days waiting for the storm at an altitude of 7800 m. A group of eight people was led by Charles S. Houston, an experienced climber and doctor. He discovered a venous thrombus on the leg of geologist Art Gilka. A blockage of the pulmonary vein soon followed and agony began. Not wanting to leave a dying comrade, the group decided to go down. Art was transported by wrapping him in sleeping bags.
During the descent, all eight people nearly died due to the massive fall that Pete Shening managed to stop. Wounded climbers stopped to camp. Gilki was fixed with ropes on the slope, while at a certain distance from it a place under the bivouac was cut down in ice. When the comrades came for Arthur, they found that he was not in place. It is still unknown: it was demolished by an avalanche or he did so deliberately in order to save his comrades from the burden.
After the descent, Muhammad Ata Ulla, a Pakistani team member, in honor of a deceased friend, erected a three-meter stone pyramid near the base camp. The Gilka Memorial has become a memorial to everyone whom the summit of K2 has summoned forever. Until 2017, there are already 85 such daredevils. Despite the defeat and death of a member of the group, the 1953 expedition in the history of mountaineering became a symbol of team cohesion and courage.
First victory
Finally, the Italian expedition in 1954 managed to conquer the peak of K2. It was led by an experienced climber, researcher and geologist Professor Ardito Desio, who by that time turned 57 years old. He presented stringent requirements for the selection of the team, its physical and theoretical training. The group included Pakistani Muhammad Ata Ulla, a participant in the 1953 ascent. Desio himself was a member of the Italian group of 1929, and on his route he planned the path of his team.
For eight weeks, the expedition overcame Abrucki’s ridge. Compressed oxygen was used for lifting, the delivery of which was provided at 8050 m by Walter Bonatti and Pakistani racer Hunza Amir Mehdi. Both nearly died after spending the night without shelter at such a height, and Hunza paid by amputation of frostbitten fingers and toes.
Lino Lasedelli and Akill Companioni climbed July 31 to the highest point of K2, the most rebellious peak. After staying there for about half an hour, and leaving empty oxygen cylinders on the virgin surface, at seven o’clock in the evening they began the descent, which almost ended in tragedy. Exhausted by fatigue and lack of oxygen, in the dark climbers underwent two falls, both of which could become fatal.
About routes
The legendary climber Reinhold Messner, who finally conquered all 14 eight-thousanders, said that he was the first to encounter a mountain that could not be climbed from either side. Messner came to this conclusion after he failed in 1979, trying to overcome the southwest edge, which he called the Magic Line. He climbed the summit through the ridge of Abruzzi, the standard route of the pioneers, after which he stated that the conquest of Everest was a walk compared to K2. Today, there are ten routes, some of which are very difficult, others are incredibly difficult, and the third are simply overwhelming and have not yet been overcome twice.
Very difficult
The standard route laid by the Italians is 75% of climbers going through the Abruzzo ridge. This, located on the Pakistani side, is the Southeast ridge of the peak, towering above the Godwin Austin Glacier.
Climbing the Northeast ridge was laid in 1978 by an American group. She found her way around a difficult rocky section covered with long cornices that ends above the very top of Abruzzi’s rib.
After two attempts by American and Slovenian climbers, the Chesena route along the Southeast Ridge was laid by the Spanish-Basque team in 1994. This is a safer alternative to the standard route through the Abruzzo ridge, as it avoids the Black Pyramid, the first big obstacle to the Abruzzi.
Incredibly complex
The route from the Chinese side along the Northern Range, almost opposite the Abruzzi ridge, was laid by the Japanese group in 1982. Despite the fact that the path is considered successful (29 climbers reached the summit), it is rarely used, partly due to the difficulties of passage and problem access to the mountain.
The Japanese route through the Western Range was laid in 1981. This line begins on the distant glacier Negrotto, passes through unpredictable rock groups and snow fields.
After several attempts on the Southeast Ridge, the Magic Line or Southwest Pillar managed to defeat the Polish-Slovak trio in 1986. The route is technically very demanding and is considered the second most difficult. The only successful ascent after 18 years was repeated by the Spanish climber.
Routes not yet repeated
The Polish Line on the South Wall, called by Reinhold Messner the suicidal route, is such a difficult and avalanche-dangerous route that no one else has ever considered a new attempt to repeat it. Passed in July 1986 by the Poles Jerzy Kukuchka and Tadeusz Piotrowski. The route is considered one of the most difficult in the history of mountaineering.
In 1990, a Japanese expedition ascended the Northwest Wall. This was the third of the northern routes from China. One of the two previous ones was also laid by Japanese climbers. This path is known for almost vertical snowy areas and the chaos of rocky heaps that accompany to the very top.
The 1991 ascent of two French climbers along the Northwest Ridge, with the exception of the initial stretch, largely repeats the two previously existing routes along the north side.
From the beginning of June to the end of August 2007, the Russian team overcame the steepest western wall. On August 22, 11 climbers climbed the Russian summit of K2, following a dangerous path, consisting entirely of rock cracks and snowy depressions.
Fierce mountain
Savage Mountain is translated as a Wild (Primeval, Fierce, Cruel, Ruthless) Mountain. This is what the climbers called Chogori, due to extremely difficult climbing and extreme weather conditions. This attracts the most fearless heroes to where the peak of K2 is located. Many climbers claim that it is technically more difficult to climb than Annapurna, which is considered the most dangerous because of its avalanches. If the winter expeditions to Annapurna ended with an ascent, then at K2 not one of the three attempts was successful.
Chogori constantly levies a lethal tax. And sometimes these are not solitary, but mass cases. The season from June 21 to August 4, 1986 claimed 13 lives of members of different groups. During 1995, eight climbers overtook death. On August 1, 2008, the simultaneous death of 11 people from international expeditions was the worst disaster on K2. A total of 85 people did not return from the mountain.
And if only the dead are counted, then the statistics are not kept amputated after frostbite extremities, injuries, injuries and deadly diseases that kill after returning. But such facts will not alienate the brave souls obsessed with the passion of climbing. They will always be tempted and attracted by their peak K2.