Sawdust mulching is a long-known technique for gardeners to “peep” at nature. In forests, the natural mantle from dead plant materials reliably protects the soil (and, therefore, the roots) from leaching, drying out, and erosion. In addition to sawdust, chips (or pieces of bark), leaves, paper, grass, fine gravel (used more for decoration), film can be used.
Mulching with sawdust is a great way to enrich the scarce soil on which plants, even forming many ovaries, if not die, then lose fruit. A layer of mulch allows the root system to develop, absorbing mineral fertilizers and moisture so much needed in the heat. The surface layer does not harden, which means, among other things, the earth remains loose and the roots can “breathe”.
Sawdust mulching can be compared to creating a paradise for soil and surface bacteria. Sheltered from direct sunlight, they absorb a lot of mulch and, processing it, leave fertile soil. In addition, such covering material is a real storehouse for soil insects and other organisms involved in improving the structure of the soil.
Mulching tomatoes with sawdust, for example, is simply necessary in areas that are prone to prolonged droughts. Open ground quickly heats up, and with it the roots of the plant. Frequent watering does not save, and sometimes even harms (especially daytime watering, after which the water, seeping through the hot soil, reaches the roots). The only way to preserve the crop is to cover the ground with mulch.
The second example is mulching strawberries with sawdust. Reception will not only increase the yield, but also keep the berries clean and intact, since they do not touch the ground, which means they do not rot. Yes, and picking such a strawberry is much more convenient.
It is probably worth recalling also that mulching with sawdust does not allow the earth to overheat in the summer and reduces freezing of the soil in winters
Oh. Mulch inhibits (or completely eliminates) weed growth.
How to mulch sawdust correctly?
Firstly, it is worth remembering the following: the layer of mulch under the berry crop (any) should be constantly. If you do not plan to introduce “chemistry”, part of the sawdust is mixed with part of the manure (already decayed). If manure is introduced in the fall (for winter), the nitrate content in the fruits will not increase.
Secondly, the more fertile the soil, the faster the mulch decomposes. After it forms a thin layer of humus, accelerating the decomposition of the next layer of mulch. The process of formation of fertile soil is slow, so you will see the results three to four years after the first mulching.
Thirdly, it is impossible to cover
to thick heavy mulch soils, otherwise the lower part will rot, especially in rainy times. Permissible height of covering material on clay soils is 2 cm.
Fourth, the first mulching is carried out only in the summer (in some regions - in the spring), immediately after sowing or transplanting seedlings. Prior to this, good, plentiful watering is required. Mulch this time should be carefully chopped. Seedlings should be indicated.
For winter mulching, a mixture of sawdust, plant debris and unfinished manure is best suited. The layer thickness is determined by the type of soil (up to 5 cm on heavy and up to 10 cm on light soils).