The largest island of the Mediterranean basin - Sicily - is known not only for its volcanoes and breathtaking stories about the mafia. The gastronomic advantages of this place are on a par with the natural, historical and cultural.
The wines of Sicily are a special subject worthy of study more carefully. No matter what they say about the subtle nuances of drinks from Veneto, the Asti Valley and other northern appellations of Italy, the island supplies a quarter of the country's alcoholic beverages. In this article we “taste” only the best wines of Sicily.
Beverage Features
Some sommeliers claim that in the hot African-like climate of the island, berries collect too many sugars to produce good wines. Say, they are characteristic, powerful, quench thirst well. But they do not have that overflow of nuances in taste, for which French wines are so appreciated. Yes, until 2011, drinks in this region had IGT status. But now they are assigned the DOC category, and the appellion “Cerasuolo di Vittoria” - even the DOCG. The island produces not only dessert wines, but also dry ones. Both red and white drinks have proven themselves well.
The history of winemaking in Sicily
The first vines on the island were planted by the Phoenicians. This is evidenced by archaeological finds dating back to the second millennium BC. In the 8th century BC e. Greek settlements began to appear on the island. They were the first to engage in the selection of varieties. But the Greeks practiced winemaking on trees, letting the vine curl along the trunks (mainly olives).
The Romans who came to the island changed the cultivation system, but left autochthonous varieties. The wines of Sicily were famous throughout the ancient world. Julius Caesar, for example, loved mamertino, and Pliny preferred faro. Even during the Arab conquest of the island, wine production did not stop. This industry developed even more during the reign of the Aragonese and Anjou dynasties, becoming paramount in the economy of Sicily.
But in modern times, the winemaking of Sicily created world fame by the British, who fell in love with Marsala. In the 19th century, the industry suffered a terrible disaster. Aphyllus phylloxera in the bud destroyed all European vineyards. And Sicily was no exception. Only high on the slopes of Etna are the dofilloxeric lands, where the vine is grown, as in the old days, with one bush. It took half a century to restore the industry. Winemaking is currently undergoing a period of rapid development. Let's look at the main appellations and the most famous brands.
Features of local winemaking
The main distinguishing feature of alcohol production in Sicily is that new varieties are not favored here. Merlot, Cabernet and Pinot Noir are grown only on a very small scale. And mainly 28 varieties are cultivated here, which are considered either autochthonous or imported back in ancient times (such as Syrah or Muscat).
The island is divided into several wine zones. Mostly red varieties are grown in the east, and white varieties in the west. The wines of Sicily are appreciated for their fullness. To say that the drink is “corpso” means to compliment him. Tourists are affected by the vineyards themselves. Producers do not plant each vine separately, supporting it on metal rods, but allow them to grow in a whole bush called alberello. Harvesting in Sicily lasts longer than other regions of Italy - as much as 90 days. This, by the way, allows the island to develop another branch of the economy - agrotourism.
Grape varieties
The vines that were bred on the island in ancient times are so inextricably linked with local soil and climate that they are completely “lost” in another region. Only under the hot sun, on volcanic soils and under the blow of the sea breeze, autochthonous varieties acquire their own unique character. Of the reds, these are Calabrese (imported from the extreme south of Italy), Perricone, Nerello (with subspecies of Cappuccio and Maskalese), Frappato.
But the most stellar variety that has glorified the wines of Sicily to the whole world is Nero d'Avola. He, like a chameleon, changes his qualities depending on the terroir. Therefore, wine of this variety should be bought only in the DOC category. Of the white varieties, the most famous is Grillo. It gives drinks a body, texture, storage potential. Other white varieties include Damascino, Caricante, Inzolia, Grecanico, Malvasia di Lipare, Zibibbo and the oldest - Cataratto. Sicilian producers also make blend wines. But there are also excellent varietal drinks.
Appellations
It is hard to say which terroir is the best in Sicily. The wines are excellent everywhere, because in each appellation those varieties are grown that are maximally disclosed in a given area. Sicily is surrounded by smaller land areas. These are the Aeolian Islands, Lampedusa, Pantelleria. They make liquors and dessert wines.
On the slopes of Etna, Volcano and Stramboli there are soils enriched with minerals. Some vineyards are located at an altitude of 1200 meters above sea level. In the vast sub-region of Etna, DOC produces both white and red drinks. Wines from volcanoes are often compared with French wines (primarily Pinot Noir and Gris), as they are thin, elegant with excellent organoleptic qualities. The largest sub-region in Sicily - Marsala DOC - is located in the vicinity of the city of Trapani.
Learning to read labels
Even the most popular and famous brand produces drinks of different quality - “for every day” and vintage wines of the best harvest. Therefore, before you buy a bottle, carefully study its label. The main secret of quality lies in abbreviations. The words "vino da Tavola" (sometimes abbreviated VdT) are used to mark ordinary table wines in Sicily. This is the lowest price segment. A bottle costs about 45 rubles. The label does not indicate where the crop for the drink is collected, nor the grape variety.
The abbreviation IGT stands for Indicazione Geografica Tipica. Wines with “Typical Geographic Identification” are quality and light. They may indicate the grade and year of harvest. But the production process is at the mercy of the wine house. The cost of such drinks in Sicily is from 90 to 250 rubles per bottle.
The abbreviation DOC means “Controlled Designation of Origin”. Wines with this status are produced in a clearly defined territory, from varieties permitted by law, with permitted yield indicators. This is closely watched by the National Institute of Real Names.
As already mentioned, only one appellion on the island has the DOCG category. This abbreviation corresponds to the highest quality according to GOST in Russia. The letter G in it means "guarantee." All drinks produced in the wine-growing zone of Cerasuolo di Vittoria in the south-east of Sicily are necessarily elite. The following zones have DOC status: Alcano, Vittoria, Contea di Sklafani, Eloro, Etna, Marsala, Noto, Faro, Montreal and others.
Best of the best
The only DOCG subregion on the island occupies a small area. It includes the communes of Ragusa, Catania and Caltanisetta. But on this site produce the best red wine of Sicily. Only two varieties are cultivated here: Nero d'Avola and Frappato. The Cerasuolo di Vittoria subregion was founded in the early 17th century by the daughter of the Viceroy of Sicily, Vittoria Colonna Enriques. Countess Modica, in order to attract new settlers, granted each family a hectare of land for vineyards.
In the course of such an economic experiment, it turned out that in the vicinity of the town of Vittoria there are unique climatic features and soils. The subregion was hit hard by the phylloxera pandemic, but the newly planted vines produced a no less remarkable crop. The wineries Ochchipinti, Kurto, Kos, Planet, Gulfi, Feudi del Piskiotto have long cultivated the assemblage of the powerful, characteristic Nero d'Avola and soft, graceful, elegant Frappato.
Marsala
This is the most famous aged red wine of Sicily is the same gastronomic "calling card" of the island as tequila for Mexico or vodka for Russia. The drink began to be produced in ancient times from the Grillo variety. This is a white grape. But the drink from it turns out to be of a specific color, which according to the classification of shades received the name "Marsala". In fashion, it is characterized as a mixture of burgundy and brown.
But the wines of Marsala differ in color by “oro” (gold), “amber” and “ruby”. The latter is made from a blend of Grillo and red grape varieties. There is also a classification for sugar content. Dry marsala has it less than 40 g per 1 liter, semi-dry - from 40 to 100, and the most famous, dessert variety - more than a hundred grams per liter. Typically, wine has a strength of about 20 degrees.
But there are less and more seasoned types of Marsala (virgin and rizerva). Interestingly, the international fame for this wine was provided by the Englishman John Woodhouse, who at the end of the 18th century began to produce it in a small factory near Trapani. Now Marsala is an unchanged ingredient for making the equally famous tiramisu dessert. Many manufacturers use unusual recipes. For example, “Marsala Vecchio Sampery Ventennale” - non-alcoholic wine made according to old recipes. And some manufacturers use even egg white among the ingredients.
Wine "Nero d'Avola" (Sicily, Italy)
But the most famous autochthonous variety on the island is Nero D'Avola. In translation, its name sounds simple: "Black from Avola" (a small town in central Sicily). But on the island he is called the "prince of wines." And all because this infant has an extremely capricious and changeable character. The vines of Nero d'Avola, planted in another terroir, give berries a completely different taste and bouquet.
Nevertheless, the variety is grown everywhere in Sicily. Its sown area is 18 thousand hectares. Grown near the town of Avola, the variety has unique gastronomic characteristics. The wines from it are structural, full-bodied, with good aging potential. The bouquet of the drink reads the tones of cherries and cherries. Varietal wines and very rarely blended wines are often produced from Nero d'Avola. Young drinks are distinguished by a clean ruby hue; in aged ones, the color is more reminiscent of pomegranate. Like other dry red wines of Sicily, its strength is 13-15 degrees.
"Moscato del Pantelleria"
This dessert wine of Sicily glorified the island no less than Marsala. In fairness, it should be noted that they produce Moscato in Pantelleria. On a small island near Sicily, a grape variety was brought from Alexandria by Saracens during the Arab conquest. Under the southern sun, the nutmeg tumbled on the branches, turning almost into raisins. Of these berries, Saracens made sweet wine.
The Arabic word "zabib" (raisins) served as the basis for the second name of the drink from the island of Pantelleria - "jibibbo". And those who tasted the wine call it divine nectar. Jibibbo has a deep golden color, turning into amber, and a rich bouquet. The taste is felt notes of apricots, dried figs, saffron and honey.
Other nutmegs
Sicily's dessert white wines are not limited to jibibbo. One should definitely mention the muscat from Syracuse. This wine is characterized by a pleasant golden hue, a delicate aroma and an exceptionally delicious taste with hints of honey and southern juicy fruits. But the drink is aged in barrels for several years. Therefore, the minimum muscat strength from Syracuse is 16.5 degrees.
Malvasia, which odes were dedicated to in ancient times, is still produced in Sicily. The best wine of this brand is made near Lipari. This wine is made from the Malvasia variety. Small additives of Corinto Nero are acceptable, which gives the light drink a golden amber tint. Of the other white sweet wines, one should recall the Moscato di Noto, which is produced in the southeast of the island.
"Volcanic" wines of Sicily
In their reviews, consumers praise drinks made from crops that are harvested on the slopes of Etna and the surrounding valley. The soils here are well-drained, rich in minerals and fertilized with volcanic ash. Since the vineyards are located high (sometimes at 1200 m above sea level), the climate here is not very hot. The indigenous varieties Minella, Nerello, Cataratta, Grillo, Caricante and Tuscan Trebiano provide raw materials for very worthy dry red, white and pink wines. In the DOC Etna regions, the drinks of all the houses are equally beautiful.
The influence of Sicily on the winemaking of other regions
The island was in the possession of the Greeks, Romans, Arabs, Goths, Aragonese, French. Winemakers adopted the techniques of their colleagues from abroad, but also shared their experiences. An example of this is the wine "Vega Sicily Unico." This drink is made in Valbuena de Duero, the Spanish province of Valladolid. But from the name it becomes clear that the wine is made according to traditional Sicilian technology.