The Akkerman fortress occupies a special place among the fortifications of Eastern Europe. A huge bastion rises above the Dniester estuary, in the middle of the early ancient city of Tire, founded in ancient times by the Greeks. For millennia, a defensive structure has been protecting citizens from attacks by enemies.
Where is Akkerman Fortress
Tourists vacationing in Odessa and the nearby resorts (in Zatoka, Carolina-Bugaz, Illichivsk) must have heard about excursions to Akkerman. Most visitors do not even suspect that in the midst of the Black Sea steppe scorched by the sun rises the largest Ukrainian fortress with an area of 9 hectares. Impressions of contemplation of an ancient stronghold forever remain in the memory and hearts of guests.
Akkerman fortress is located in the central part of the 57 thousandth city called Belgorod-Dniester. Now it is a quiet district center of Odessa region, and once the oldest city in Europe, which was founded by colonists from the Greek Miletus, presumably in the VI century BC. e. The second name of the structure is consonant with the name of the settlement - Belgorod-Dniester (Belgorod) fortress.
Construction
A strategically important place at the junction of trade routes leading deep into the mainland along the Danube, Dniester and Dnieper rivers, needed protection from the encroachments of neighboring competitors. The ancient defensive structures erected for this, which existed before the XII century, have been preserved fragmentary. In the 60s, some elements were discovered (round tower, walls), built at the end of the 5th century BC. e. Part of the fortification system was rebuilt and used in Roman times as a stronghold where the Roman garrison was located.
After the capture of the city by the army of the Golden Horde, Akkerman fortress was laid. The history of fortification begins in the 13th century, when Khan Berke initiated the construction of the citadel, which later became the heart of an extensive fortification. The work was carried out for almost two centuries, during which time the defenders had to meet unexpected guests more than once.
Early History: XIII-XV Century
Initially, the fortress was rented by enterprising Genoese, who used it as a secure shopping center, transshipment and storage of goods. However, soon Bessarabia came under the control of the peak of development of the Moldavian principality.
Both the Genoese and Moldavians strengthened the defensive structure, which reached considerable size. The citadel was powerful enough to withstand the siege of the mighty Ottoman Empire three times. However, in 1484, Akkerman fell, but not thanks to the talents of the Turkish commanders, but because of the betrayal (as often happened) of the nobility and elders of the city.
Late history: XVI-XXI century
For the Ottoman Empire, the Akkerman fortress became the most important stronghold in the north. She was repeatedly besieged by Cossacks, Poles, Moldavian rulers. Powerful walls stopped applicants for ownership of the city. In the XVIII century, during the period of three Russian-Turkish wars, the situation changed. Having lost their former greatness, the Ottomans met in the face of the Russian Empire a serious opponent. In 1770, for the first time in 328 years, the citadel fell under the pressure of the troops of General O. A. Igelstrom. In 1774 the city had to be returned to the Turks. At one time, the commandant of Akkerman was M.I. Kutuzov. Finally, the territory of Bessarabia passed to Russia in 1812. The year 1832 was the last for the citadel as a military facility.
The First World War and the ensuing revolution in Russia once again redrawn the map of Europe. In 1918, Moldova and Lower Transnistria were transferred to the kingdom of Romania. In 1940, the USSR annexed these territories, in 1941-1944. located in the occupation of Germany and allied Romania. After the collapse of the USSR, Belgorod-Dniester remained part of the Republic of Ukraine.
Akkerman fortress: description
Reinforcement is a complex of structures with an integrated defense system. External walls stretch for 2.5 km and enclose an area of about 9 hectares. Towers were installed on the most important sites: the most famous of them are Maiden (Ovid), Watchdog, Pushkin. Of the 34 towers, 26 have survived. The height of the fortifications ranges from 5 to 15 meters, their thickness is 1.5-5 meters.
Part of the fortress goes to the estuary, which is a natural barrier. An imposing moat surrounds the walls from land. Even after centuries, its depth reaches 14 meters. The courtyard is divided into zones: economic (outside the walls), civil and garrison. The last two are blocked by the inner wall. A mosque was installed on the territory of the civil zone (part of the minaret has been preserved)
Citadel
In the farthest part of the fortification, on the banks of the Dniester, the highest and most fortified part of the castle rises - the citadel. Four towers once crowned it:
- Treasure chest.
- The courtier.
- Curfew.
- The dungeon.
The Treasury Tower collapsed, but the Akkerman Fortress looks no less spectacular. The tournaments held near the walls of the fortress amaze the imagination with their scope and naturalness. Modern knights for the fun of the inhabitants of Belgorod-Dniester and tourists converge in the "battles", like their distant ancestors.
Current state
Unfortunately, the Akkerman fortress is gradually being destroyed. Studies have shown that it is based on a limestone slab only 5 meters thick. The waters of the estuary undermine the foundation, erosion contributes to the destruction of masonry - structures need a comprehensive and expensive restoration.
Experts say that the deformation of some sections of the fortress reached a critical point. At any moment, the walls and towers may collapse. For safety's sake, many areas are closed to the public. In fact, since the construction of the grandiose fortification it has not been restored, despite the fact that Akkerman received the status of a protected architectural object in the 19th century.
Archaeological research
Excavations of ancient Tyra began at the end of the XIX century. Its ruins "rest" exactly at the fortress walls. In recent years, discovered:
- New sections of the defensive system (northwestern part and a tower located in the southern part of the excavation).
- Hellenistic residential buildings.
- The construction of the colonnade of the Roman Empire.
- Late antique houses and construction with apse V-XI centuries.
Studies have shown that in the late ancient period of Tire, it still had the appearance of an ancient city and probably preserved it in the early medieval period. Thus, it is the largest monument of ancient and medieval history in Ukraine.
In 1919-1922, Romanian archaeologists inside the fortress discovered part of the defensive wall of the ancient period and the Middle Ages. After the Second World War, a number of expeditions of the Institute of Archeology of the Academy of Sciences of the Ukrainian SSR made it possible to open some rooms of buildings from the 4th-2nd centuries BC on the fortress square, east of the main gate. e. and II-III centuries BC e., located on a cliff from the estuary. This is a street with a drain that refers to the Roman period (I Transverse), the remains of the Golden Horde buildings and industrial complexes of both the ancient and medieval periods. Excavations were carried out in the fortress itself.
The Akkerman fortress, based on the peculiarities of its construction, could not be built at once, which led to the assumption of the construction of the citadel during the presence of the Genoese. Some researchers, based on early medieval written sources, believed that the Slavic Belgorod, the forerunner of the Golden Horde city, stood in the place of Tyra. In addition to written sources, they also relied on some material materials found during excavations, but no layer and construction remains of the period of the V-XII centuries were found.
Below the medieval layers, dated XIII-XV centuries, were directly antique. The most recent of them was considered late antique (the last quarter of the 4th century). He lay on a powerful layer from the time of the Roman Empire (III century). All the construction sites of the Roman period are represented by residential and public (a vexilation building) complexes, streets, industrial facilities (horns).
Tourism
Ackerman is an architectural gem of Odessa region. Numerous companies organize informative one-day tours from Odessa and neighboring resorts. Hundreds of tourists flock to Belgodod-Dniester daily, where the main attraction is Akkerman Fortress. The price of the tour is quite affordable, the entrance ticket costs 40 hryvnias (season 2015). However, many visitors complain about bans on visiting emergency sites and underdeveloped infrastructure.
Do you want to see for yourself what the Akkerman fortress is? How to get there, we will tell:
- transport of travel agencies organizing an excursion;
- local train (train) "Odessa - Belgorod-Dniester";
- by bus - there are regular routes from Ilyichevsk, Odessa and resort areas;
- Taxi;
- own transport.
The only route from Odessa to Akkerman is via the Budak Spit at the mouth of the Dniester. The distance is about 75 km.
Despite the neglect of the complex, the Akkerman fortress still impresses with its grandiose dimensions, rich history and cultural events. Come, do not regret it!