Dress with a sleeve-flashlight: pattern, sewing

Flashlight - the style of the sleeve, which is sewn into the armhole with the formation of assemblies and tapers in the lower part with a fit of the hand. Due to the peculiarity of the pattern, it turns out to be lush and rounded. The clothing got its name because of the outward resemblance to a street lamp. Less commonly, such a sleeve is called a buff.

Many people like a dress with a flashlight sleeve because of its lightness and romanticism. At the same time, the buff can have both an office blouse and an elegant dress for a girl. A flashlight sleeve combined with an A-line dress creates a laid-back youth style. Moreover, it can be of various lengths and splendor, ending with a cuff or elastic, made of lace, organza and other light tissues.

A-line dress: pattern

The construction of the A-silhouette pattern is based on a change in the drawing of the basis of a straight dress :

1. Build a basic drawing (pattern-base).
2. Determine the desired length of the dress, mark it on the line of the middle of the drawing of the shelf and back (segment AB).
3. Change the silhouette. To do this, increase the width along the bottom line by 4–6 cm. Draw a straight line from the lower corner of the armhole to the marked point (segment HK).
4. Correct the bottom line by lifting it on the side by 1.5–2 cm as shown in the figure (segment KM).
5. Remove tucks at the waist.
6. Remove the shoulder tucks (if the chest is large - shorten by 2-3 cm).
7. Shorten the shoulder seam by 0.5-1.5 cm from the armhole for a better fit of the flashlight sleeve.
8. Measure the side lines of the shelves and backs; if there is a difference in length, adjust them.
9. Design a neckline based on your own wishes. If necessary, mark the position of the fastener.

Cut the finished parts and cut them on the fabric from which the dress with the flashlight sleeve will be made. The detail of the shelf is solid, with a fold in the middle. The back can be either solid or composed of two parts with a seam in the middle.

Extended to the bottom of the sleeve flashlight

As a basis for a flashlight, extended to the bottom, a single-seam sleeve pattern is used:

1. Build a basic drawing.
2. Draw a midline vertically, divide the sleeve into eight parts, as shown in Figure 1.
3. Cut the resulting pattern and lay it on paper, spreading the lower part along the cuts. The wider the gap between the parts of the pattern, the more magnificent the sleeve will turn out. For medium splendor, the sleeve width should be doubled.
4. Set aside 6 cm from the midline (less for children's patterns), draw a smooth bottom line as shown in Figure 1.
5. Cut the part, cut out of the fabric, adding allowances to the seams.

Such a pattern of a sleeve-flashlight requires a slight shortening of the shoulder seam of the base of the dress (0.5 cm).

The lantern assembled from below and from above

The base for the flashlight, expanded in the rim and bottom, is also a single-seam sleeve pattern:

1. Build a basic drawing.
2. Draw a midline vertically, divide the sleeve into eight parts, as shown in Figure 2.
3. Cut the resulting pattern and lay it out on paper, spreading the cut parts parallel to each other at a distance of 6 cm for medium splendor. The gaps can be increased up to 8 cm for a larger volume of the finished sleeve, or, conversely, reduced to get a narrower version.
4. At the mid-down mark, set aside 6 cm (less for children's patterns), draw a smooth bottom line as shown in Figure 2.
5. Raise the sleeve sleeves by 2 cm (smaller for children's patterns), smoothly draw a line, as shown in the figure.
6. Cut the part, cut out of the fabric, adding allowances to the seams.

Depending on the volume of the sleeve, a shortening of the shoulder seam of the base of the dress is required from 0.5 to 1.5 cm.

The long sleeve flashlight turns out lush in the upper part and at the wrist. Most often, such an option is used in evening dresses and carnival costumes, however, you can also find it in everyday clothes.

Extended top sleeve flashlight

A sleeve pattern for a flashlight extended from above is made on the basis of a drawing of a single-seam sleeve:

1. Build a basic drawing.
2. Draw a midline vertically, divide the sleeve into eight parts, as shown in Figure 3.
3. Cut the resulting pattern and lay it on paper. Extend the upper part of the sleeve, which will form a flashlight, to the desired distance.
4. Raise the sleeve sleeves by 2–3 cm (smaller - for children's patterns), smoothly draw a line, as shown in Figure 3. This is necessary for a beautiful fit when creating assemblies. The lower part remains unchanged.
5. Cut the part, cut out of the fabric, adding allowances to the seams.

Depending on the volume of the sleeve, it is necessary to shorten the shoulder seam of the dress by a value of 0.5 to 1.5 cm.

The bottom of the sleeve-flashlight can be decorated with lace, cuffs, oblique trim.

Sewing the basics of the dress

A dress with a lantern sleeve having an A-silhouette is sewn very simply and quickly. The whole process consists of the following steps:

1. Perform shoulder tucks (if any), iron them.
2. Fold the details of the back, if it is not one-piece, with the sides facing inward, make a seam, taking into account the fasteners.
3. Fold the back and the shelf with the sides facing inward, make side and shoulder seams.
4. To process a mouth (by a stitching, a slanting inlay or to stitch a collar)
5. Handle the bottom of the dress.
   

Before sewing flashlight sleeves, the finished base must be ironed, check the presence of marks of the sleeve ridge and measure the size of the armhole.

Sewing and stitching sleeves flashlight

When the base of the dress is ready, you can proceed to work with the sleeve. Its tailoring and vtachivanie in an armhole consist of the following actions:

1. Outline with a chalk the area intended for assembly.
2. Loosen the upper thread tension and select the longest stitch length on the machine.
3. Lay two lines parallel to each other, 5 mm from the seam line.
4. Pull the lower threads of the stitches to form an assembly.
5. Evenly arrange them.
6. Run the seam of the sleeve.
7. Pin the sleeve with the assemblies to the armhole, adjust its width as necessary.
8. Stitch a flashlight and remove lines to form assemblies.
9. To process the bottom of the sleeve, the selected method.
   

Knowing how to sew flashlight sleeves, you can experiment with their width, length, and also with the choice of the basis of the product. This item of clothing can look completely different on a business dress of an adult woman and on the home dress of a little girl.

A dress with a flashlight sleeve is very relevant today. If it has an A-silhouette, then in the summer it will go well with flat sandals, and in the cold season with over the knee boots.