In the USSR, it was believed that it was much more convenient to wash things in the basin, and shaving would be as effective and clean as possible when using the Neva machine. A hairdryer was considered a bourgeois excess to dry hair. In our modern and technological times, builders, engineers and designers still adhere to this point of view. So much more convenient. But when the average person makes repairs in an old apartment or moves to a new one, the outlet in the bathroom must be present. This is often paid attention to, and often the matter is not limited to one outlet.

In a modern bathroom, which is equipped according to the latest canons, in addition to a washing machine, there are other electrical appliances. Now you can not survive without a boiler, a bath with a hydromassage or a mirror with backlight. But the bathroom requires special conditions. High humidity reigns there. Therefore, installing outlets in the bathroom requires a serious approach. After all, humidity and electricity pose a serious danger to life.
Types of modern outlets for bathrooms
Specifically for bathrooms, these elements do not, and those that are still on sale do not differ in their special variety. Classify them only on two grounds. This is the power that this or that device is able to withstand, and the number of consumers that are connected. As for the number of devices, everything is extremely clear and understandable here. But in matters of power of electrical devices is worth sorting out. Measure current in amperes. For particularly powerful equipment (which can be boilers or washing machines), sockets for 16 or more amperes are needed. A less powerful outlet in the bathroom, along with a washing machine or other appliance, will simply melt. This is a significant risk of short circuits.

The bathroom is always humid and short circuiting can lead to very unpredictable consequences. For low-power appliances, such as hair dryers, razors, curling irons, enough elements with a power of 6-8 A. Before buying, it is important to find out what the differences between conventional solutions from specialized for bathrooms. Often for these types of rooms it is recommended to use waterproof sockets. They are equipped with a cover that can protect the appliance from splashing water. Also, experts recommend purchasing and installing sockets with a third contact intended for grounding.
Primary requirements
Some people are still convinced that installing the outlet in the bathroom is strictly prohibited. Yes, there really was such a ban, but after 1996 it ceased to exist. But there were good reasons for this ban. A bathroom is a rather complicated environment with a bathtub, water intake devices, and a huge number of metal pipes. Of course, we can say that steel pipes are the last century, and the tub is often plastic. But the number of household devices has increased.
The ban is no longer valid. Its removal is caused by the wide distribution of various means and systems of electrical safety. Do not install outlets in rooms such as saunas, baths or showers. An outlet in the bathroom of a private house or apartment is quite acceptable. Also allowed the installation of elements in the bathrooms of hotel rooms. But there are certain reservations in the rules.
RCD required
Connecting the outlet in a humid room is only allowed if there is a residual current device in the network . In this case, the tripping current should not be more than 30 mA. As an alternative to such devices, isolation transformers can be used . The maximum level of protection can be achieved by mounting two devices together. This is done voluntarily, and this is not the norm. If water enters the outlet, with high resistance, the device automatically cuts off the current supply.
Grounding
The electrics in the bathroom must be grounded. And the outlet itself is equipped with a third contact. However, not every house has it. RCDs, as well as transformers, can work without it.
But with regard to the level of protection, it will be much lower than it could be. It is recommended to ground all metal systems and devices as much as possible. This will reduce the risk of short circuits and fires.
The presence of hidden electrical wiring
Wiring must be done by a hidden method. It is allowed to use open installation. But in this case, all the places where the wires will be connected are carefully insulated. It is not recommended to install in metal pipes or a steel hose. The outlet in the bathroom should be located at a distance of not less than 60 cm from grounded sanitary fixtures. Also, installation of the element closer than 60 cm from the doors of the shower cabin is not allowed. The minimum permissible height at which installation is possible is 130 cm from the floor level.
Security zones
Clause 7.1.47 of the EMP states that the bathroom or shower room is divided into four zones. Each of them has certain requirements regarding electrical safety. Zone 0 is the location inside the bathtub, washbasin or shower. It permits the installation of water-protected electrical appliances with voltages up to 12 V type IPX7. At the same time, power sources are installed outside this zone. Installation of the outlet in this case is prohibited.

Zone 1 is a place under the bath, above washbasins, showers, bidets. Here it is allowed to install water-protected water heaters, as well as luminaires with a protection class of at least IPX5. In this case, a "protective zero" is necessarily connected. Outlets in these places are prohibited. The heater can be connected to electricity through a completely sealed inlet or to an outlet located in the third zone. Zone 2 is all that is located at a distance of up to 60 cm and further from the first zone. It is permitted to install IPX4-class waterproof lighting fixtures. Also, the installation of fans is not prohibited. But the installation of sockets is prohibited. Zone 3 is all that is located at a distance of up to 2.4 m from the second zone. Here you can install waterproof sockets type IPX4. But they are connected through protective devices with a grounding contact. Outside the high-hazard areas, it is allowed to install ordinary IPX1 class sockets, install junction boxes and control devices. But you need to connect through protective equipment.
Marking and decoding of codes for sockets and electrical appliances
Any electrical appliances (including sockets) are marked with a special marking - IPXY, where X is the level of protection against dust and Y is moisture. For the bathroom, it is recommended to use sockets and electrical appliances with a class of protection against moisture not lower than the fourth. Electrical appliances marked "0" are not protected from moisture. Class “1” provides protection against condensation. The second and third - from the effects of vertical spray.
The devices of the fourth class are reliably protected from serious splashes in any direction. It can be a socket with a cover. Fifth grade - devices working with a powerful stream of water. Elements of the sixth and seventh type can operate at a depth of 1 m or more.
Preparing to install outlets
It can be done in two ways. This is the installation of a new point in the old place with the replacement of wiring or the installation of a point with new wiring. The installation process takes place in several stages. For outlets, a separate group with a cable should be allocated. Before proceeding with installation work, the line must be equipped with a separate machine. What it is? This is a special device that automatically turns off the power supply to the consumer. It is installed if there is a boiler or a washing machine in the room.
If powerful household appliances are missing, you can do without it. Often its power is 16 amperes. When installing, it is necessary to maintain a height of not lower than 60 centimeters from the floor. A ground wire is required. An ideal choice is a socket with a cover. If the elements are mounted without repair, then it is equipped with a separate cable, which is connected to the switchboard via an automatic machine.
Installation process
The first step is to choose a suitable outlet and decide where it will be located. In order for the installation process to go quickly and at a high level, the necessary tools should be prepared. So, we need a moisture-proof outlet (6A or more). You will also need a screwdriver with a cross profile, a special tool for removing insulation, an electric indicator, a punch.
If a new electrical point is installed, but repair is not done, then any devices are selected. If repairs are made, and the wiring changes, then for greater aesthetics, you should choose embedded products. The outdoor outlet is easy to install . So, in the first step, drill holes for mounting dowels. Then prepare the wires. This is a cleaning of the insulation of the ends of the cable. It is not recommended to use a knife, otherwise the wire may be damaged. At the next stage, dowels are installed. Connect the wires to the outlet, and the case is fixed to the wall. The moisture- proof outdoor outlet has special openings with plugs.
They pass wires and then connect. So the body of the device is pressed closer to the wall. Thus, the installation of outlets in the bathroom with your own hands is carried out. The same goes for switches. The process will not cause difficulties, and now it is not at all difficult to choose suitable devices.
Summary
No doubt an outlet in the bathroom is needed. What sockets to put in the bathroom? Definitely those that are most protected from high humidity. This reduces the risk of short circuit and reflow.