In a broad sense, the wind bar is a wooden board or metal profile of a certain configuration. It is usually installed in order to close the end openings that may remain between the boards of the roof battens. If you do not close these holes, then in them you blow the wind, which cools the attic. Such ventilation is very useful for hayloft, but not for a residential building.
There are many options for installing a wind bar, but it is worth considering the three most common. Further about them.
Mounting the wind bar: option one
The boards of the crate, which protrude beyond the plane of the pediment, should be sheathed from below with cornice boards. Most often, their thickness is 25-30 millimeters. Preliminarily, the planking boards should be sawed so that they protrude the same distance over the entire length of the cornice. That is, a stretched lace is used from the ridge to the eaves, along which the distance of interest is noted. The excess is then sawn off.
Then the roof is covered with roofing material, and then the wind plate is screwed on with screws or nailed. Fastening is carried out along a pair of lines: the first passes in the middle of the ends of the batten boards, and the second - in the middle of the extreme cornice board, which is hemmed. All this is done in order to exclude the possibility of warping of the wind bar from atmospheric influences. This sometimes happens if the fasteners are placed on the same line.
The wind plate with its top should be installed as tightly as possible to the roofing material. Quite often, such boards are threaded for home decoration. The pattern runs along the bottom of the board.
Installing the wind bar: second option
If we are talking about a roof made of metal, then the wind bar is called the end. It is made of a strip of sheet painted iron, which is bent at a right angle. The width of the horizontal and vertical shelves can be 100-150 millimeters. Usually the length of the slats is two meters. There may be longitudinal ribs on the surface, or it may be smooth. For rigidity, the edges of the planks are equipped with small bends-flanges along the entire length.
The wind plate for metal should be installed so as to close the sheet of material from above, and its vertical shelf was pressed against the ends of the boards of the crate. Here the requirements are similar: it is more tight to press the end plate to the surfaces adjacent to it. Since the length of the plank is usually 2 meters, and the length of the roof is much longer, first you need to install the lower, and then overlying, so that an overlap of at least 50 millimeters is formed.
Planks are fastened using colored roofing screws located at a distance of 400-600 millimeters from each other. Side mounting is sometimes done using wood washers. The main thing in this business is not to be smeared, that is, to get into a wooden board. If this happens, then do not remove the self-tapping screw, as there will be a noticeable hole.
Using tool
When working with a screwdriver, do not wrap the screws at high speeds, it will work more correctly at the very minimum. If necessary, it is better to loosen the torque, otherwise the view from the side of the end plate will not be very attractive, since it will resemble sea waves. The fastening process will inevitably be accompanied by scratches. They are best painted over with spray paint. Otherwise, the metal will begin corrosion processes as early as next year. There is only one difficulty - to guess the shade as accurately as possible. Otherwise, tinted places will look very strange.
Roof Wind Rails: Third Mounting Option
This method is relevant for any type of roof, if the house is sheathed with siding. In this case, not the wind bar is used, but the finish strip. There must be present a wooden base in the form of planks of crate, which must be closed, and hemmed planks. Since the siding is prone to undergo large linear expansions at temperature extremes, its fastening is carried out in the strictest accordance with typical installation instructions. In this case, the press washer or galvanized end nail with a large hat is located exactly in the middle of the hole of any of the vinyl elements.
The wind plate, which is sold in addition to siding, can also be used as a window panel. Due to the wide shelves, it is also called “burdock”. This shelf is cut by full length roofing scissors to the desired size. The cut edge should fit well into the finish element. And this edge should be visible. That is, it should not be rested against the finish element, but should have a five-millimeter play. In this case, warpage will be excluded, and the burdock will be able to drive horizontally quite freely.
Subtleties of preparation
First you need to make a template, that is, a sample of the siding components. It should be attached to the installation site. If everything came together, then you can do one set, which will be installed in place. If the location is correct, you can continue. Non-professionals often immediately cut parts to the whole house, which is their main mistake. After installing the first parts, they realize that they were very mistaken. This leads to the need to purchase new material, since this one is no longer suitable for use. Better to prepare everything carefully than to do so.
The wind plate is often used in a combined version when it comes to metal roof tiles and siding on the walls. In this case, the lower edge of the end plate should be as tight as possible to the vinyl siding throughout. Overlapping is unacceptable here. The sides should look good, and there should be no gaps.
These are the most common options for how the wind bar can be installed. All the subtleties and nuances depend on each specific case.