The wonderful property of shuttlecocks to fall in a wave appears due to a special cut. So you can decorate the bottom of the product, collar or sleeve. A shuttlecock pattern is easy to construct, but using the fabric is expensive. There are two options for building a shuttlecock. Based on these two fundamentals, you can simulate the folds, which will look different.
Circular, or "bagel" cutting shuttlecock
First, consider the principle by which the circular sleeve of the shuttlecock is cut. The pattern is built taking into account specific measurements. In this case, the finished pattern will look like this.
The outer part of the circle will be the edge of the shuttle, and the inner part of the circle will become a line of sewing to the product.
Calculation of a circular pattern of a shuttlecock
Suppose we need a pattern of a blouse with sleeves in flounces. In the place of the armhole we will sew in a sleeve of this type. To do this, you need to measure the armhole of the finished product. When constructing a circle, the inner radius should be 30 cm. The width of the circle is equal to the width of the shuttlecock, 15 cm is enough for a short sleeve. Here you can immediately lay allowances at the seams. On the inner edge, they will be mandatory, and the outer edge can be processed with a zigzag or inlay. In this case, you do not need to add fabric to the seams along the edge. The result is a shuttlecock 30 cm long and 15 cm wide.
How to calculate radius
We decided that we would cut the sleeve with a flounce short. The pattern is calculated by the formula. In order to correctly determine the radius and not be tormented by building at random, a formula is used to calculate the radius.
You need to divide the circumference by 6.28.
In our case, it will be 30: 6.28 = 4.7. Accordingly, the radius of the outer circle is equal to the radius of the inner circle and the width of the shuttlecock is 15 + 4.7 = 19.7 cm.
So, on the compass you need to set 4.7 cm and draw a circle. Set aside 15 cm of width from the edge of the circle and draw an outer circle. The pattern of the sleeve of the shuttlecock is ready. Obviously, the consumption of fabric here is large, because the inside of the “donut” is no longer used.
To make this cutting a little more economical, you need to cut the pattern into two parts and put it in crescents to each other, just when sewing on the shuttlecock instead of one seam there will be two.
Spiral or snail shuttlecock
This option allows you to use the fabric rationally. It is thus possible to make a pattern for a girl with a flounce sleeve. For example, a small shuttlecock on the shoulders or at the level of the elbow.
When constructing such a pattern, the degree of undulation along the entire length of the shuttle will be slightly different. One end will be very wavy and the other slightly. But some models allow such a difference. You can use a spiral shuttlecock when you need to perform asymmetry or make a chaotic design on a skirt or dress. This option can be used to build a dress pattern with a sleeveless frill. A simple top without unnecessary elements in combination with an asymmetric shuttlecock at the bottom will look original.
Building a spiral shuttlecock pattern
To make the spiral easier to build and the same width along the entire length, you need to make certain drawings on tracing paper or special paper. For the sleeve of the shuttlecock, the pattern should not be wide, it is not very comfortable to wear, unless some special case is supposed where it will be appropriate.
On paper you need to draw a cross, 3 cm from the center on each line a dot is placed. From these points it will be necessary to postpone the desired width of the shuttlecock. For a spiral shuttlecock, it is advisable not to take wide stripes. For example, take a shuttlecock with a width of 4 cm. Now, from the first points in each direction, it will be necessary to postpone 4 cm. And from the received points again postpone 4 cm.
Points are needed in order to make it easier to draw an even snail. They need to be connected in a spiral, starting from the inside.
How to calculate the length of such a shuttlecock if we sew a sleeve with a shuttlecock at the elbow? The pattern is built based on the width of the shuttlecock and girth along the line of the elbow, for example 25 cm.
The width of the shuttle will be equal to four centimeters, the length is 25 cm. To measure these 25 cm on the cochlea, you need to cut a thread of this length or use a centimeter tape on which digital marks will be immediately visible. Using a thread or a centimeter tape on the inside of the spiral, measure the required number of centimeters and cut it out.
If the spiral ended earlier than the thread, it must be extended by drawing points on the cross and connecting them together.
Frill allowances
Oversizes on shuttlecocks are needed, as well as on every detail of the pattern. Since the shuttlecock is twisted in a circle, the edge of the sewing is curved. In order to prevent wrinkles when stitching such a sleeve, allowance should be left on the shuttlecock no more than 0.5 cm. Before sewing the shuttlecock along the edge, it is necessary to make small cuts at a distance of a centimeter from each other. Thus, the concave edge will become more even and the stitch will go smoothly without pinching or skewing the fabric. The shuttlecock will turn out smooth and flowing.
Processing the edge of shuttlecocks and shuttlecocks
The inner edge is always processed, because there the seam is open and threads will be strewed from two stitched parts, in this case an overlock or zigzag will help to cope with the task. The lower edge of the shuttlecock can be designed in different ways. If this is a blouse with flounces on the sleeves, the pattern can go without allowances on the bottom. Zigzag processing allows you to further increase the wave, if the edge is slightly stretched during processing. If you process the edge twice, then the seam will tighten the edge, and small threads will not stick out in different directions.
Sometimes the edges are not processed at all, if the fabric does not crumble or the designer has conceived a model in which some kind of negligence should be present. Such models also look very good. Without processing, you can make a top pattern with a flounce sleeve. Tops are often worn by young people and if the edges are not trimmed, then such a product will still look harmonious.
Edges can be processed with an oblique trim; the choice of colors today allows you to choose options for any fabric. In this case, when cutting, you do not need to lay additional centimeters on the hem.
Only for hem at cutting 1-1.5 cm are added. And then the hem cannot be made wide. It must be borne in mind that the fabric will have to be bent along an oblique, and this is fraught with creases, folds and uneven edges. To make such an edge even, you need to have experience in sewing, beginners have to tinker with such processing.
You can also decorate the edge of the shuttlecock with ruff, it is sewn along the edge with an ordinary even seam, but the edge must first be processed with an overlock. Lace is superimposed on the front side of the fabric and is tuned from above. Another processing option is the lining. A shuttlecock is made of the main fabric and the lining, and two parts are sewn along the widest edge. The details are turned out and ironed, a finishing line can be laid along the edge. It turns out a dense shuttlecock with a perfect even edge.
Wavy shuttlecocks
There may be a situation when you need a cool shuttlecock. When we built the "donut", then there was a specific radius, which gave a certain wave. In that case, it is impossible to add undulation, it is strictly limited. A dress pattern with a flounce below, without a sleeve, looks something like this in the finished version.
If we need to sew a fluffy shuttlecock along the edge of the dress, and the width along the edge of the product is 90 cm, then we need to make the correct calculation. For the dress, you can choose the width of the shuttlecock of 20-30 cm. In this case, you need to build two bagels, with an inner circumference of 45 cm. After cutting, these two details will need to be sewn, and the inner radius of the shuttlecock will again become 90 cm, but the wave will be much more intense . It follows from this that the smaller the radius of the inner circle, the more magnificent the shuttle will be. There are options when shuttlecocks come out of four parts.
Modeling shuttlecocks
This is the most interesting topic! Modeling is something that makes it easy to make complex, and therefore, original and interesting.
For example, consider a few specific models. We see a dress-shirt with flounces on the elbow line. Circular shuttlecocks are used here, three on each sleeve. They all have the same inner circle radius, but the width and outer radius will be different. It is necessary to determine the length of the shuttlecocks, for example, each next shuttlecock will be 3 cm longer than the previous one.
To do this, you do not need to build three separate patterns, you can perform one drawing. It is necessary to draw the first "donut", put 3 cm from the outer edge and draw another circle. Set aside another three centimeters from this circle and draw another circle. When sewing shuttlecocks to a sleeve, you can simplify your task and first sweep away all three bagels along the inner radius, and then stitch it to the sleeve in one go.
By the same principle, you can make a decorative top in a summer sundress. Only in this case, the inner diameter should be so wide that the product fits well on the shoulders. It should be noted that when sewing, the top of the product is assembled with elastic, which means that extra centimeters per assembly, about 15-20 cm, must be added to the radius measurement.
Consider another model of a blouse with frills on the sleeves and the bottom. The width of the flounces is the same on the entire product, the bottom with a hem, which means that you need to lay the fabric separately on the hem. The inner circle of the shuttlecocks on the sleeves should be equal to the width of the sleeve along the elbow line, and the inner circle of the shuttlecock for the bottom of the blouse should be equal to the length of the lower edge of the blouse.
The flounce looks very original on skirts. Such a vertical shuttlecock is cut out of two parts. In this case, you can use a spiral cutting. Two details of the shuttlecock need to be folded together with their front sides and stitched along the widest line of the wave, the product should be turned out and ironed, a decorative line can be laid along the edge of the shuttlecock. So that the shuttlecock can be easily sewn into the skirt, you can sweep the remaining edges of the shuttlecock together, while sewing on the skirt they will not move out and skew. After stitching, the basting thread is removed, and the finished product looks neat.
Shuttlecocks allow you to decorate any product, make it more feminine and original.