Despite the practicality of various types of trousers and jeans, many ladies still love skirts. It is feminine and beautiful. Sewing a straight skirt is not very difficult. Perhaps this is one of those options that will suit even novice dressmakers. We offer a detailed description of this type of needlework.
It all starts with measurements
From the moment when there is only a piece of fabric in the hands, until the moment when it turns into a beautiful elegant thing, there are only two main stages - the construction of the pattern and the sewing process. It does not depend on the type of model. To sew a straight skirt, a drawing is not always needed. Sometimes you can make markings directly on the fabric, but this requires experience.
In constructions, it is customary to use indicative markings that allow you to transfer lines and points corresponding to the figure onto paper.
For accurate measurements on the waist, you need to tie a braid. This is especially important if the skirt is not sewn on itself. Visually, the waistline is not always visible. A person himself can adjust the braid to the level where it is convenient for him. In addition, the anatomical structure of all is individual.
Ideally, the waist line runs horizontally. If one leg is longer and the other is shorter, then the length on the sides of the stitched product will be different. Therefore, having made such a small reference point for yourself, it is much easier to collect the correct data and build a pattern that matches a specific figure.
What you need for work
Before starting any business, you need to prepare and buy everything you need for work. You can sew a straight skirt quickly if all materials are available. One day is enough to have a finished product on hand.
The fabric can be chosen at your discretion or taking into account the time of year. You will also need threads in the color of the fabric, a centimeter tape, doubler, pins, a ruler, an iron, a needle and a thread of contrasting color for basting. Also tailor's chalk or soap, paper and pencil. To sew a product, you need a machine and an overlock for processing internal seams. Sometimes the processing of sections is done in a zigzag, but not all craftswomen recommend it.
Correct measurement records
When the finished pattern is superimposed on the fabric, the material is doubled. Therefore, the drawing is done only half the figure. These sizes you need:
- FROM - waist circumference. It is measured around the body horizontally in a tied braid.
- ABOUT - the circumference of the hips is measured by the most convex points of the buttocks and hips, passes through the stomach. The centimeter tape should also pass horizontally.
- DI - for sewing any thing you need to specify its length. In this case, it will be the length of the skirt. It is measured from the waist along the side line to the level where the bottom of the skirt is planned.
Measurements of the waist and hips are divided by 4. The resulting figure will be used in the construction of the drawing. If the fabric is not stretch, then you need to add from 2-4 cm to a loose fit.
Work with drawings
All actions are conveniently performed on a wide table so that the pattern fits on it completely. If there is no such piece of furniture, you can sit on the floor. There are tips on how to sew a straight skirt for beginners. It’s better not to miss them. Professionals often do not use them because they have honed skills. And for beginners it is better to execute them all, so that later they do not redo the work.
Paper for cutting should have the form of a rectangle with the sides:
- CI + 10 cm.
- FOB (half hips) + 10 cm.
Above the edge you need to step back 5 cm and put a point. From her draw a horizontal line across the entire sheet. This is the waist line. All measurements must be signed. From the marked point down, postpone another 18 cm and put the second mark. From it, you also need to draw a horizontal line across the entire sheet. This is the line of the hips.
From the first point down, you need to postpone the DI and put the third mark. Then draw a horizontal line again. This is the bottom of the product. In order not to get confused, the lines can be signed, as in the photo below.
Work on proportions
The human figure is voluminous. Therefore, data must be transferred onto paper so that the product fits well after assembly and sewing. From the first longing to the right, you need to postpone the FOB, put the fourth mark and lower the straight line from it through LB and LN.
From the first point, you also need to postpone RP / 4, put the fifth mark. From it again draw down a straight line through the LB and the LN. For convenience, the received lines must be signed. The one in the middle corresponds to the side seam, and the one that turned out on the right side is the future seam on the back shelf.
Build Tucks
If you do not make tucks, then you can think about how to sew a straight skirt with an elastic band. Then the product will not fit snugly on the figure, but wrinkles will appear on top. If the model provides a tight fit, then from the midline along the LT it is necessary to put 3 cm to the right and left and under the ruler connect them to the center point on the forehead. So that there are no sharp corners on the hips, you need to round the lines a little.
Build the front tuck
In the drawing, it is already clear that this is part of the front and rear halves of the product on which you need to build tucks. They will be on the back and front.
From our very first point to the right along the LT, we need to postpone 10 cm and put another mark. From it we lay down 7 cm, and to the right and left - 1 cm each. Connect all the new points. Front tucks ready. Sometimes they are not built in front at all, but this is not suitable for all fabrics.
We build tucks from the back
Not everyone is easily given blueprints. That is why in this article the names of points and lines are minimized. Often a large amount of data complicates the workflow. To avoid confusion, we use the most basic concepts to build. From the middle perpendicular line along the LT, it is necessary to postpone to the right 10 cm. From the received point, lower down a straight line measuring 14-15 cm. This is the length of the back groove. Its width is calculated individually. For this, the formula is used:
POB - POT - 2 cm (front undercut) - 6 cm (side undercut).
The resulting figure is divided by 2. This value is delayed to the right and left. They must be marked with dots that connect to the end of the previously delayed segment, the length of which was 15 cm.
Pattern is ready. If you work it out thoroughly, then on the back half you can make 4 tucks, but for a beginner this is quite enough. Pattern can be cut.
The fabric needs to be prepared
The hardest part is behind. Now you can cut. It is very important to prepare the tissue before this procedure. It needs to be well ironed and steamed, because some types of fabrics can shrink up to 10 cm. If you first cut the product and then iron the seams, then the cut may be reduced in size. Then the skirt will have to give someone.
When the fabric is ironed as much as possible, any tissue defects may appear on it. When cutting them, you can get around, but you can’t do anything with them on the finished product. We continue to consider how to sew a straight skirt with your own hands.
It's time to cut
So that the finished product does not warp, you need to properly cut. In the work, it is important to consider the direction of the shared thread. Some fabrics stretch along it, others along the weft. If the error cannot be seen immediately, then after the first wash it will immediately become noticeable.
It is also worth paying attention to whether there is a pile or pattern on the fabric. Velvet needs to be cut in a single direction so that one part of the product is not darker than the other.
Matter is usually folded face-down inward, the edges aligned. Sewing a straight skirt without slots and cuts is easier. Consider this option. The back can be made of two parts, and before it will be solid. In this embodiment, the pattern in front of the middle is laid to the fold, and the pattern of the back is laid to the edges. Then there will be a seam in the center back. If you do not want him to be there, then the fabric for cutting needs to be folded so that it turns out two bends. Then in the work there will be only two cut-out details.
It is always worth remembering about the direction of the shared thread (DN). You can sew a straight skirt on a pattern from a magazine. Transferring it to paper, one must not forget about the arrows that suggest the direction of the pattern.
The drawing is laid out on the fabric and pinned with pins around the perimeter. Now it can be circled. Next, you need to mark the allowances. On the bottom you need to add 4 cm, at the top - 1 cm, in the center of the back 2 cm, and on the sides 1 cm for freedom of fit + 2 cm allowances. As you can see, it’s not so easy to sew a straight skirt with your own hands without a pattern.
Tucks on the fabric are only translated, but not cut. The belt can be cut directly onto the fabric. In an empty seat, you need to postpone POT + 10 cm long and 8 cm wide. The same part should be carved on doubler. They need to be cut.
Sewing and fitting
Cut out the elements you need to collect. It is advisable to make tucks before this so that they no longer return to them. They need to be folded facing inward and chopped with several pins so that they do not move, bast and stitch. Pull out the basting and iron them to the side seams.
If the skirt has a back seam, then you can insert a zipper into it. If you need to sew a straight skirt with only side seams, then you will have to leave a place for a zipper on the side along the length of the fastener. Sweep off the skirt and carry out the first fitting. Sometimes the fit is quite tedious. At this stage, you can see where you need to pick up more tissue, where to release. If the product fits well on the figure, the seams can be sewn, leaving a section for lightning.
Belt processing
The part of the belt made of fabric and doubler must be glued with a hot iron. It is advisable to apply it for a few seconds, and then move it to another place. With smoothing movements, doublerin can be stretched or shifted. Next, fold the belt along its length in half and iron it.
At this stage, you need to process all the internal seams and sew a zipper. Now the belt needs to be pinned to the skirt and sewn.
On the bottom of the product you need to bend and gently iron. The hem is hemmed manually with a blind seam. Needle punctures should not be visible from the front. On the edge of the belt, you need to make a buttonhole and sew a button or hook.
When you have the skill in this work, you can begin to learn how to sew a straight skirt without a pattern. Then the drawing must be applied directly to the fabric. All subsequent steps will be the same.