In olden times, a woman's outfit could fully characterize her. Each estate and region of residence had its own peculiar elements. Along with the headdress, one could find out whether a girl is married or not, whether she is rich or belongs to the lower class, even women wore different clothes in different age periods of their lives.
In the article we will consider what ancient hats existed, who wore them, how they differed, who belonged to them. After all, it was with the help of a headdress that a woman tried to look spectacular, attract the attention of others, so they were carefully decorated and beautifully embroidered.
Nakosnik
In the old days, young girls usually wove braids. The only decoration of such a hairstyle was a mowing board. The most popular form of such an old headdress was triangular.
They made it from birch bark and sheathed with fabric, supplied on the sides with ribbons on which the product was attached to the base of the girl’s braid. In order to draw attention to his person, the mowing-table was carefully decorated with embroidery, beads, various pendants, lace details.
Crown
By tradition, young girls did not have to completely cover their heads. Therefore, the next ancient headdress used by unmarried girls in Russia was a crown. It is also called a hoop or bandage on the forehead, bangs (from the fact that the bandage was put on the forehead, brow).
With this treatment, the hair remained visible. Guys could admire beautiful girlish braids. Decorated it in different ways. They made embroidery, clung various pendants and rings, metal medallions. Decorated with ribbons and a piece of brocade. It could be a simple rectangle carved from birch bark or linden bark, a scarf folded in the form of a strip. The only requirement is that the hair does not close. After all, only married women hid their braids under a scarf. Girls could not cover their heads even on frosty days.
Crown
Such an old hat was worn by girls on especially solemn and festive days. A product was made on the basis of a metal frame. Outwardly, it resembled a crown, hence its name. On the crown, teeth were made, the so-called towns, which remind the crown of modern people. Such crowns were high, up to 10 cm in height, especially in the forehead, which very effectively emphasized the appearance of the girl.
Depending on the well-being of her family, different decorations were also used. It could be pearls and precious stones, beads and simple embroidery. Potential grooms at the celebrations, of course, paid special attention to them. Often after such holidays matchmakers were sent to brides in the house.
Vintage hats of married women
During the wedding ritual, the bridesmaids untied her braid and did an adult hairstyle. This action was accompanied by crying and lamentations about the loss of freedom and beloved girlfriend, who now will not have time for them at all. After the wedding, the woman had to cover her head. There were a few traditional hats for married women in the old days. These are the famous kokoshniks, warriors, kitschki (horned, hoof-shaped and shovel-shaped), sticks and captures, magpies and diggers. Consider the old hats of married women in Russia in more detail.
Kokoshnik
This is a tall and embroidered headdress that the ancient Rusich put on for the holidays. The origin of the word is due to the old Russian word - "kokosh" (rooster). The shape of this old Russian headdress really resembles the crest of this majestic bird. Some historians believe that such a headdress has Byzantine roots. After all, then there were close ties between Russia and Byzantium.
Kokoshniki had a different shape: semicircular, triangular, pointed and thin, similar to a girl’s crown. Decorated them depending on their social status. They were put on shawls and just on the head, but completely hidden hair was a prerequisite for married women.
Kitschka
The name "kitsch or kick" - an old women's headdress - comes from the old Slavic term "kyka", which meant hair. This is the most ancient headdress of Slavic women. Many wore a horny pigtail, hence the expression went - to boast, that is, to lift one’s nose. They said this because the height of the kitsch sometimes reached 30 cm, and the women had to keep their heads very even so that the weight of the headgear did not tilt it down. There was a custom to put on a kitty only after the birth of the firstborn.
The first mention of such an old headdress of Russian married women, historians found in one of the documents dated 1328. Kitty covered her hair. In front of it there was a solid part made of birch bark and even planks, sometimes pieces of dense matter were put in there, folded in several rows and sewn together.
They made them of different shapes: shoulder blades, hooves, horns. The back was covered with fabric, the back of the head was embroidered and decorated with beads. Braids were laid around the head and hid under the stitch. Later, priests were forbidden to visit women in the horny kitsah of the church, since such a headdress was considered pagan.
At first they wore a horned kitty, gradually it grew into a spade-shaped and in the form of a hoof. The frontal part of such a headdress was in the shape of a horseshoe or hoof and fitted with a beautifully decorated fabric. Such a part was attached around the head, on top of the “cap” using laces, ribbons. It was believed that such a horseshoe on his head would protect the owner from a bad look. There was a tradition of hanging horseshoes over a doorway, this was done for the same purpose.
Traveler
One of the most common ancient hats of Russian women is a warrior. He looks like a hat that covers his hair completely. This kind of decoration has been known since the 13th century. They made it from colored matter. It was considered the lower element, over it was always worn ubrus, or kokoshnik, or magpie. And since the 19th century, it has already been actively used as an independent part of the female toilet.
They did it for all occasions. There were home warders from simple fabric, without any decorations. For the holidays they put on items decorated with embroidery, bugles, gimbal, beads. A festive version was made of brocade, satin or silk, winter versions were sewn from velvet and cashmere. Some warriors in shape resemble modern baby caps that are tied on the occipital part of the head or under the chin with ribbons.
There is another variety of warriors - the product is made of one whole piece of matter, which was gathered in folds on the crown and tightened with braid on the occipital part.
Magpie
Such an interesting headdress has been used since the 17th century, mainly worn by residents of the Tula province. Many historians call this type of ancient headgear of Russian women a kind of kick.
They called the headdress because of its similarity with the famous bird. There were bright “wings”, and the back, similar to the tail, which was folded. Outwardly, the back of such a headdress resembled the plumage of a peacock. We put on his clothes on holidays, decorating with special bright rosettes of ribbons worn on the back of the ponev. Worn by forty women who had recently married, and somewhere 2-3 years after the wedding. In the Tula museums, one can see numerous types of such a bright and beautiful outfit.
In the article, we examined in detail the main ancient hats that were liked by Russian women. Many are used now by fashion designers of the world.