Indian embroidery is a type of craft traditional for this country and its national treasure. Patterns thought out a long time ago by ancient masters are today very recognizable around the world. In this material you will learn about the most popular techniques of Indian embroidery, about interesting ornaments and plots.
A bit of history
A form of art embroidery is mentioned in Vedic literature of the fifth century. BC. Hand-made elements made of thread and jewelry decorated ancient clothes, emphasizing its richness. It is noteworthy that in embroideries and its plots the very history of India is embodied. In this country, new concepts and skills are still being assimilated into basic values and fundamental foundations, including embroidery. Its uniqueness lies in the magnificence of the patterns applied to the fabric in a variety of shades. By the way, products with embroidery here are considered a traditional gift. In many regions of India, it is customary to formalize in this way the wedding dress and dowry of the bride, which she will wear in the new house. The embroidery technique is huge, but we will talk about the most popular of them.
Shisha. Small mirror
If we talk about the visual expression of the country, Indian embroidery shisha is just such a basic element. Translated from Hindi, the name of the technique sounds like a “small mirror”, and work on the creation of elements is carried out just using round mirrors. When this technique was born, no one would say, but back in the 17th century this variety of embroidery was actively popularized. It is believed that ordinary people sought to imitate the rich with such embroidered elements, because in India since ancient times they have loved gold, bright and excess jewelry. But not everyone could afford expensive clothes. Therefore, gold threads for embroidery, glass, mica and other jewelry were used.
About shisha technique
Shisha is a classic Indian mirror embroidery, which is still popular in Pakistan, Afghanistan. As already noted, ordinary people really wanted to look rich, but they did not have gold. In the course were mirrors, which were broken into small pieces. Their edges were carefully processed, painted with silver, and then carefully sewn onto clothes. It was believed that such Indian embroidery was able to protect against evil spirits and oblique glances. In modern tradition, small fragments of mirrors are replaced by sequins, sequins, which are also quite inexpensive.
Embroidery is carried out using silk, cotton, woolen fabrics, which have a dense weave structure. You can take any threads, but the most important thing is to first try to try your hand at a flap. The steps are as follows:
- First you need to process the edges of decorative mirrors, and then begin their fastening to the fabric. For convenience, you can first stick pieces of decor on double-sided tape.
- The cladding of the mirrors is done with regular stitches to create a perpendicular lattice.
- Then begins the creation of a pattern with the execution of the overcast seam and with the capture of threads that are already on the mirror.
As blanks, you can use old disks, metallized cardboard - everything that glitters and reflects light.
Zardosi
The most chic embroidery is created using gold thread. The heyday of this technique fell on the era of the Mughals, when not only clothes but also the emperor’s chambers were decorated with embroidered elements, bedspreads for horses and elephants. In addition to gold threads, today metal threads are used in this technique. The main thing is to choose an expensive fabric: silk, velveteen, brocade. Surprisingly, mostly men are engaged in this work.
Zardozi embroidery is widely used in the design of local wedding dresses. So, the most expensive sarees for this celebration are created on silk fabrics with gold threads, and the whole process is carried out exclusively by hand. With the help of such elements, blankets, pillows, curtains, tablecloths, bags and even shoes are decorated.
Zardozi Technique
Gold embroidery begins with the creation of a drawing on tracing paper. It is sewn directly onto the fabric with a clear designation of the image contour, and then its design begins. Aerobatics is considered the addition of embroidered elements with precious stones. A feature of the technique is that most often it is plant motifs that are used. It is believed that their creation is inspired by plot forms that delight the nature of India. Applying embroidery is done with a special hook, which is not very simple and requires training. A popular pattern in this technique is the Indian cucumber, which today is often used by designers of leading world brands.
Few people know, but the most famous master working on the zardozi technique was Shamasuddin from Agra. His embroidered paintings are the heaviest artistic embroideries in the world, since their weight is more than 200 kg! This weight is explained by the decoration of finished products with gems. It is noteworthy that many sheikhs from Saudi Arabia were ready to pay a lot of money to get such a work of art. But Shamasuddin was adamant and did not sell his paintings for any money.
Kantha
This technique is widely used in cases where you need to stitch together several layers of sarees. Initially, the ornament on them was made with old threads and was used not only for decoration, but also for more durable fastening of materials to each other. Depending on the number of layers, Indian kantha embroidery could be done both on winter blankets and on small prayer rugs. It is noteworthy, but the products created in this way were never sold, most often they were made for personal use or as a gift. Traditional color schemes are simple - from blue and brown to red and green.
How is kantha performed?
The technique involves applying to the surface with a small manual stitch forward with a needle, various patterns - gratings, waves, zigzags. The pattern itself is corrugated and embossed. The technique is very laborious, so it could take from several months to several years to make one thing. In the modern tradition, stitches are often complemented by special rhinestones for embroidery, which give the products an individual look. Shells, buttons, small mirrors and appliqués are also used as decorations.
Chikankari
Not the most characteristic for India is chikankari embroidery. Its feature is maximum simplicity and the absence of colorful patterns or gold threads. In fact, this is an ornament with white threads on a white canvas. Indian chikankari embroidery adorns the traditional local outfits of Kurtas Chikan - long white shirts that every tourist considers it an honor to purchase as a souvenir. For applying patterns, a buttonhole stitch and a seam forward with a needle are used. The threads for this technique are selected on the basis of cotton, and the embroidery itself is applied not only to clothes, but also to bedding and tablecloths.
About Chicancari Technique
Before embroidery, a design is created taking into account the type of fabric. The stitches are already matched to the pattern selected for a particular product. The pattern must be cut on a wooden blank or applied manually. After preparing the form, the pattern is printed on the fabric, and all the paints are easily washed off from it. After this, the pattern is sewn in the pattern with different types of stitches. Once the embroidery is finished, the fabric is washed, bleached, treated with acid and ironed.
Popular patterns and motifs
We talked about the most popular techniques of Indian embroidery. An important role and a certain spiritual value are played by the selected patterns and motifs, which for each region can be different. Even the simplest drawing, for example, a cucumber has its own meaning, being created from many separate elements and helping to make the pattern uniform and harmonious. By the way, paisley is the most famous Indian ornament, the history of which dates back to the ancient state of the Sassanids.
What true meaning does this drawing have, no one will say for sure. According to legend, the pattern of cucumber resembles tongues of flame, which are the personification of human life. On the other hand, paisley speaks of development, dynamism, energy, which is why it is often used as a decoration for dresses for newlyweds in India. It is noteworthy that today this print is popular far beyond the borders of India. Many designers use it when creating fashion collections. In addition, the cucumber pattern is often used for painting dishes or decorating the interior, designed in oriental style.
Floral Ornaments
India is a country that attracts with its magic and exoticism. But it is also a multiconfessional country, which is also expressed in folk art. The basis of the basics among the decor are the floral and floral ornaments that decorate the sarees. In India, the image of the face of Allah, people, animals is prohibited, therefore, drawings on floral themes are most often chosen. The most popular motif is the lotus, which is revered in this country and considered sacred. He acts as a symbol of creativity, wisdom, harmony. Often, patterns of mango, pomegranate, clove, cypress are also chosen. No matter what Indian masters use to create embroideries, each of them turns out to be a real work of art.
Geometry
Geometric patterns are also popular among ornaments in India, with each figure having its own meaning. So, a star is a symbol of divinity and reliability, a square indicates stability and honesty, an octagon - about reliability and security. Many variations in the circle, which symbolize the integrity and development of life.
Color symbolism
Indian embroidery is a whole art that requires not only skill, but also a competent selection of materials, threads, drawings. This type of craft has always been one of the most affordable, so even the poor could handle it. There were no uniform rules in embroidery either, so local craftswomen could give free rein to imagination and create unique patterns. It is noteworthy that in Indian costumes shades of red, yellow, green, pink colors prevail, each of which has its own symbolism:
- red shows sensuality and purity, so it is chosen for decoration of wedding dresses;
- yellow symbolizes the mind, the power of thought;
- blue emphasizes masculinity;
- green is a symbol of fertility and rebirth.
Each craftswoman in India pays great attention to the correct selection of thread color, taking into account the purpose of the dress or product, its symbolism. In this country, harmony plays an important role, which is expressed in everything. And the finished product, in addition to a beautiful appearance, should be balanced in color and shape, and most importantly - carry a certain meaning, symbolism.
Embroidery in modern fashion
Fashion houses around the world are increasingly returning to old traditions, embodying the most unusual trends in their collections. So, Indian embroidery techniques are used by designers to decorate wedding dresses, as well as other clothes, both separately and in combination with other types of this needlework. Thanks to this, the outfits are truly colorful, bright, authentic.
Special attention should be paid to the Indian cucumber, which survived a series of metamorphoses, but still remained one of the most recognizable prints. It is used by many brands of the world on a variety of types of clothing. Today, to create products in the style of Indian embroidery, the simplest materials that the craftsmen can afford are used. However, items of brocade, silk or velvet embroidered with gold or silver threads are considered to be the most valuable, especially if they are additionally decorated with precious stones.