Historical events, politics and economics are real factors in the development of fashion. Not designers and personal preferences determine how modern fashionistas will look, but history. A striking example was the fashion of the 40s, when the lack of fabrics, the decline in light industry and the threat to human life pushed fashion to the very last ranks. However, today such outfits are considered one of the most sophisticated, as if symbolizing femininity, which was preserved by the fair sex, who lived in that difficult era. Why are practical outfits that have become part of the fashion history of the 40s so attractive?
Fashion and history
The defining event in all spheres of life in the years 1940-1946 was the Second World War. She radically changed people around the world, influenced their lifestyle, and, accordingly, fashion and attitude to it. In this era, it was not the beauty of clothing that was important, but the acute need for practicality and minimalism. It was at this time that the consumption of fabrics for manufactured clothes was deliberately reduced. Thought out the details that will help to act quickly and practically in any situation. The war pushed designers to new lines and silhouettes: pencil skirts, small hats, which later gave way to even thinner shawls, which corresponded as much as possible to the spirit of the times.
Innovations
Having learned about the declaration of war, many leading designers created models that corresponded to the lifestyle of ordinary people. Coats with hoods and pajamas “for shelters” were sewn, comfortable shoes on low speed, bulk bags in which you could carry everything you needed, including gas masks. Instead of leather, shoes are now made from straw, felt, hemp, dermantine, and include parts made of cellophane and wood. It was these components, created at that difficult time, that determined the features of the history of fashion of the 40s of the XX century.
Fashionable inventions of the era
One of the most popular and revolutionary materials created during that period was nylon. At first, stockings were created from it, and later underwear. Its widespread contribution was due to the shortage of strong natural fabrics, since such materials of light industry were used on a large scale for the needs of the front.
Since 1939, a ban was introduced on the use of silk, leather and cotton for non-military needs. Natural fabrics were used for the manufacture of parachute fabric, cards and covers for bullets and shells. Women's clothing was now produced in small quantities, and was also characterized by minimalism; it was sewn without the frills and decorative ornaments customary for previous eras.
The fashion and style of 1940-1946 was marked by the fact that, in connection with the political and economic situation in the world, the roles of trendsetters were replayed. After the Nazi army captured Paris, some designers emigrated to the United States, someone closed their boutiques and stopped working. One of those who left the fashion industry was the great couturier Coco Chanel.
Despite the fact that many designers refused to work in the new conditions, some of the fashion houses remained open. Lanvin, Balmain, Balenciaga, Rochas, Nina Ricci and many others now, according to Hitler's plans, were to glorify German beauty.
The style of the 40s under the influence of Nazi Germany has changed markedly. The ideal of female beauty has now become a larger figure, athletically built women who could shoulder on their shoulders not only housework and raising children, but also hard work for the good of their country. Peasant and medieval German motifs appeared, straw hats, broad shoulders in jackets and dresses, etc.
Impact of scarcity on fashion
In conditions of tissue deficiency and reprofiling production of excesses, almost no one could afford. They began to supply people with coupons for clothes, according to which you can get only the necessary things in one or two copies: a coat, a pair of shoes, two or three shifts of underwear, a sweater, a skirt, a blouse and so on. Everything was issued at the minimum need.
It was from the fashion of the 40s that second-hand stores and handmade clothing stores, widely spread in wartime, subsequently began to appear. New types of home-made patchwork dress appeared, representing new models sewn from used old clothes.
In the context of austerity, women begin to get rid of unnecessary acquisitions of constantly deteriorating wardrobe elements. Now no one was wearing stockings, which were increasingly difficult to get, but it was very easy to tear. Women began to shave their legs and draw a neat, thin black arrow along the length of their entire legs. Fashion magazines offered unique “recipes” for creating jewelry from bottle caps and corks.
Style features
The two main components of the fashion of the 40s were sports style and military. Khaki color has appeared. In addition to it, fairly simple colors were used, almost without patterns: black, blue, gray, which sometimes could be used in a variation of a print with polka dots or a small flower.
It was very difficult to find shoes in general, the industry offered dermantine shoes and shoes on wooden blocks and soles. But even such models were in huge shortage.
Knitted items and accessories, large pockets began to spread. Hats were rapidly declining. Hats gave way to scarves and scarves, thin berets. Shyness faded into the background, now everyone was thinking about practicality.
Cosmetics almost disappeared from the shelves, women not only rarely thought about makeup, but could not even get the most ordinary things, such as lipstick or blush. The United States, which did not participate in the war, could afford excesses in the fashionable elements of that time. And also in this country began to produce powder and lipstick of various bright colors.
Change of roles
The former world capital of fashion, occupied by the Germans, now obeyed German fashion trends. In this regard, Paris ceased to occupy the unconditional position of the trendsetter. Its economic decline, the mass emigration of representatives of the beauty sector and a decline in interest in trends led to the fact that the strength of the American style began to grow. Now, the creation of their own fashion industry depended on them. The greatest interest was given to everyday practical clothes.
Business cards were created for the fashion side of the American way of life: the casual California style, the lines of a business New York outfit and the new details of a functional university suit. Bold steps were taken by American designers towards everyday, practical and functional style. The legendary wool jersey, as well as tracksuits made of natural fabrics, were created. The United States praised everyday life, the value of every day, and the beauty of functional, comfortable clothing.
After the war
While France and all of Europe were moving away from the prolonged stagnation caused by the war, the United States began to develop its fashion industry with all its strength and energy. American designers made an active contribution to the post-war fashion, especially focusing on clothing for sports and recreation. A real boom fell on a bikini swimsuit, breaking all records of courage in front of an open body and its beauty. The swimsuit was named after the atoll in the United States, where the atomic bomb was first tested.
However, America did not reign supreme for a long time. Already in 1947, Christian Dior appeared, who breathed a fresh batch of elegance and sophistication into the post-war world. He became the most popular designer of the 40-50s, creating his collection in the style of new look.
In modern fashion
Retro style of the 40s with asceticism and femininity at the same time remains a vivid example of elegance. The lines and silhouettes of outfits of that time are emphasized simple, but unusually sophisticated and practical. A minimum of fabrics is used, but all elements of clothing are thin and airy. Deep cuts, graceful lines of a pencil skirt, simple buttons on jackets, thin straps that emphasize the waist line and elegance - all these are details of the fashion of the military era.
The style of the 1940s became a trend that repeated the lines and models in the collections of many famous designers in the fall / winter seasons 2009–2010 and 2011–2012. The elegance, which sought to emphasize the fragility of the weaker sex, was addressed by Gucci, Prada, Jean Paul Gaultier, Donna Karan. Spring / summer 2013 was marked by the revival of fashion of the 40s: straight lines and silhouettes reappeared, high collars of shirts and cardigans, elongated pencil skirts and functional shirt dresses.