Classic shoes are the basis of the wardrobe, it can say much more about a man than any other item of clothing. Now the fashion is not as strict as before, and boots for a formal suit can be far from boring. There are also universal models that are equally good both in the office and at informal events. Today we’ll talk about the top three men's shoes - brogues, oxfords, derby. The difference between these models for the inexperienced is almost not noticeable, but meanwhile it exists.
Classic for all time
With regard to oxfords, you can use many epithets, but always with the prefix the most: the most classic, the most stylish, the most strict, the most traditional and business. Refined style and strict etiquette for many are associated with England. That's right, because the ancestors of Oxford first came into fashion there. Their ancestors are balmorals (photo below), named after the Scottish castle of Balmoral. In turn, their predecessors were Oxford ankle boots, popular in 1800 at the oldest European educational institution, in whose honor they got their name.
In the USA, balmorals and oxfords are synonyms, while in the UK the former are considered a variety of the latter due to the lack of stitching on the boot welt.
Derby
Derby shoes are less formal. They are considered a universal shoe model. In England, they are often called "bluers". Shoes got their name, according to one version, in honor of Marshal Blucher from Prussia, who, together with his army, participated in the Battle of Waterloo. The military, according to legend, wore original boots with open lacing, which, in all likelihood, later turned into shoes.
What is brushing
It is easy to get confused in the variety of shoe models. Having started the conversation about the difference between derby, oxford and brogues, one interesting detail should be mentioned. Brogues have perforation. The process of applying a pattern by perforating various hole sizes is called brogering. It can be done both on derby and on oxfords.
Irish cattle farmers deliberately began punching holes in shoes in the 17th century. The main function of brigging then is the removal of water from the foot and its quick ventilation. Gradually, the model became popular with foresters and rangers, and after - with the aristocracy. At this time, the appearance of modern brogues formed. Convenience, practicality and versatility - these three qualities contributed to the popularization of shoes.
Thus, the difference between oxfords and brogues, derby and brogues is in small perforations on the back and toe. In fact, they are not a separate style of shoes, this is just a way of decorating it.
Types of Brogues
Over time, the need for through-hole perforation disappeared and punctures became decorative. They are applied in the form of an openwork pattern on the surface of the shoes. Depending on the technology, there are three types:
- Full brogues. In this case, the entire surface of the shoe is perforated.
- The demigods. Small punctures are present only on the cutting toe and are grouped into a specific pattern.
- Quarter brogues. Perforation is present only along the seams.
Derby, brogues and oxfords: difference in appearance
Oxfords are characterized by closed lacing. The vamp (front of the boot) is sewn on top of the berets (side parts), laced up.
In the case of the derby, the opposite is true. The lacing of this type of shoe is open, berets are sewn on top of the vamp. Therefore, the sidewalls freely diverge to the sides when the laces are untied.
Initially, both types of shoes were characteristic exclusively for men's wardrobe. However, in the 20s of the last century, the first female oxfords and brogues appeared. The difference between the male and female models is practically absent. Unless the latter are released in a wide variety of colors. In Russia, a general craze for oxfords among women was observed in 2010.
How to wear derby, brogues and oxfords
Many do not know that in the case of derby, brog and oxford, the differences also apply to wearing rules. Not all models are equally good with a classic suit and jeans. Certain requirements exist, and it would be useful to take them into account.
The most classic and rigorous model is Oxfords. Black shoes without perforations and decorative elements are worn to a formal suit or tuxedo, tailcoat. The brown leather model is suitable for everyday wear. Women, by contrast, can wear oxfords anytime and with anything.
Derby can be called the opposite of oxford. Shoes are universal. Models in black and brown will suit strict business suits. Soft leather derby with colored accents in bright color perfectly complement jeans or cotton chinos. Very popular is red leather shoes. Such derby add an image of brightness, originality. Their destiny is an informal clothing style: slacks, jeans.
Derby is the case when you can buy one pair and safely combine it with everything that is in your wardrobe. True, preference should be given to the least elaborate monophonic models. This is the difference between derby and oxford.
Brogues are intermediate. As already mentioned, perforations can be applied to both oxfords and derby. It should be remembered that such decor on shoes immediately lowers the degree of its officiality. Stylists do not recommend brogues to wear with strict suits. The most harmonious they are combined with tweed or wool suits, jackets in casual style.
Oxfords, derby and brogues are not recommended to be worn with tight and tight-fitting legs trousers and jeans. Such a combination will upset the balance and harmony, the legs will look disproportionately large.
How much are men's oxfords and brogues
The difference in price is determined by two factors: material and brand. Classic oxfords were always sewn from high-quality smooth leather. However, times are changing. Now you can find on sale models from patent leather, suede, leatherette or a combination of materials. The classic color of the model is dark brown and black. Classic models can be found at old-fashioned shoe companies: Crockett & Jones, Santoni, Edward Green, Cheaney, Wolverine and Barrett. Be prepared for the fact that the products of high-end brands will have to pay well. The price of oxfords (pictured) from Crockett & Jones starts at 395 euros.
Of course, in the mass markets it is more democratic. Shoes made of genuine leather cost from three to four thousand rubles.
Between derby, brog and oxford, the difference in price depending on the model is practically not observed. Classic is always more expensive, but not by much. Quite often you can observe how much the cost of a thing changes depending on fashion trends. However, this is not the case, oxfords, derby and brogues in the classic version are always in demand. For example, the British company NEXT offers its customers all models at a price of four to five thousand rubles.