In today's world, it is difficult to imagine sewing production without sewing equipment, that is, one where everything is done manually. But once it was. And it was very fashionable to decorate clothes with hand embroidery. Progress has brought many changes, but manual embroidery is still appreciated. Many needlewomen are happy to embroider and applique on fabric. Therefore, it will be interesting and useful to learn something new about the buttonhole stitch and its application.
A manual stitch seam is always performed from left to right, the needle must be inserted in the direction towards itself. It is important that the edge of the thread is well fixed before starting work to prevent it from blooming. The finished seam will be neat if you first make the marking with an erasable pencil, outlining the lines along which you will sew. The loop seam includes many varieties that are suitable for a variety of uses.
Getting started and securing the thread
There are two ways to do this:
- In the first case, the needle is inserted on the front side, leaving a short tip of the thread. Make several stitches, after turning the work to the wrong side, weave the left tip of the thread behind the rear walls of the stitches. In the same way, the thread is fixed at the end of the work. This method is used when embroidering fragments of a pattern.
- In the second case, the needle is injected into the upper edge of the seam line, and the tip of the thread is left on the front side. Then the working thread is laid on top, closing the tip of the thread, and the next stitch is sewn. After completing a series of stitches, stretch the thread to the wrong side and make 2-3 small stitches over your last straight stitch, grab only the back with a needle. Fasten the thread at the beginning of the work in the same way. This method is used for finishing edges or for applications.
Learning to sew
Before we look at how to sew a buttonhole, let's first learn the golden rule. It consists in the fact that between the stitches there should be a distance equal to their depth. If the depth of the stitches is large, then they should be located further from each other. The classic depth and distance between the stitches of the buttonhole stitch is 0.5 cm.
Buttonhole - how to make it right?
- The needle is inserted at a distance of 0.5 cm from the edge of the part and at the same distance from the stitch securing the working thread.
- The working thread is drawn into the loop formed around the edge of the part. At the same time, we make sure that the needle remains in front of the thread.
- We continue to repeat the same action with subsequent stitches.
If you have little experience and not everything works right the first time, you don’t need to worry. A little practice and desire - and everything will turn out like real craftswomen!
In the process, the following errors are possible:
- The stitches are of different sizes, and the seam looks ugly. To prevent this, mark the marking, noting the depth of the stitches and the necessary distance between them.
- The stitched edge is wrinkled. This happened due to the fact that the working thread was too tightened or the stitches were made very deep. To avoid this, do not tighten the thread very much and watch the depth of the stitches; it should not exceed the distance between them.
A loop seam (its other name is marginal) is used when sheathing loops, overcasting the edges of the product or embroidering. Its main application is the processing of crumbling edges. Also use it in the manufacture of crafts made of felt. Appliques are fixed with this seam, decorative edges are trimmed, embroidery is filled. It is an intertwined loop, which is why it got such a name. Sutures are made in straight or curved lines.
Having learned about this original seam, you would rather want to try it in your work. Further we will consider how to embroider with a buttonhole stitch, what are its varieties, where they can best be used.
Overcast seam
The overcast stitch seam is the main among the varieties of this seam and is used most often. It is indispensable for processing the edges of the product. The lower thread of its loops can be located either along the cut of the fabric, or along the edge. All stitches of the bound loops of such a seam will be evenly spaced. Using it in embroidery, stitches can be made at different levels, alternating between long and short.
Filling overcast stitch
It is also the main one in its subgroup, great for embroidery around the circumference, so it is quite popular among lovers of needlework.
It is executed as follows:
- The needle is brought out on the front side and injected on the bottom line towards the top, stepping back a little to the right. Now the needle is inserted next to the first puncture, and the thread is under the tip of the needle.
- Pulling the thread through the fabric over the working thread, tighten it so that a tight loop forms on the bottom line.
- Sew the remaining stitches in the same way, making sure they are at the same distance and the same height.
The filling overcast buttonhole stitch can also be called a tight seam, in it the stitches will always be located at a close distance from each other. To make it beautiful, follow this advice: the size of the stitch should correspond to the thickness of the thread. If you embroider small stitches with a thick thread, the pattern will come out not only too voluminous, it will be uneven. If, on the contrary, the threads are chosen thin and the stitches are made very large, such a pattern will resemble a cobweb, and the loops will look shapeless.
Closed seam
- Having made a marking on the fabric from two parallel lines, they begin work from the lower left edge. The needle is inserted from the top line and displayed on the bottom (the stitch is tilted), the thread will remain under the tip of the needle.
- The thread is gently pulled, the needle sticks at the top of the previous stitch, the stitch is tilted to the right. You will get a triangle.
- Having stretched the thread, complete the first closed stitch, then the thread is held under the tip of the needle. Continue the entire row, doing the same, keeping the same distance between the stitches.
Crossed seam
- Mark the fabric from two parallel lines on the fabric and start work from the lower left corner. Stick the needle into the top line on the right and bring it to the bottom line, the stitch should turn with a slope to the left, the thread is held under the needle.
- Pull the needle onto the top line to the right of the previous stitch and draw on the bottom line. The thread is under the needle; take the needle out under the top of the first stitch.
- The thread is carefully stretched, and you get the first crossed stitch. The thread is held under the tip of the needle. Continue sewing other stitches at the same distance.
Double seam
- Before starting work, mark 3 parallel lines. Start sewing from the lower left corner. Make a series of overcast stitches to mark the bottom line. Leave the distance between the stitches small, they should protrude slightly beyond the center line.
- Then rotate the fabric 180 ° and make the second row of the same overcast stitches under the first row as before. They must be placed between the lines of the first row.
It is also worth mentioning the dense looped seam, it can be found as a surface embroidery or it can act as the main seam in such welt embroideries as richelieu.
Knit stitch
Perfect use for the buttonhole can also be found in knitting. It is not suitable for stitching parts of a product, but it can be used to beautifully process the edges of applications or embroidery.