In sewing production, machine stitches and seams occupy far from the last place. The appearance of the entire product depends on how well the seamstress knows them and knows how to do them evenly. But in order to know them well, it is necessary to understand the classification and differences in execution technology.
Types of seams
Depending on the purpose of the work, product features and fabric quality, different assembly technologies are chosen. According to the classification, machine seams are connecting, edge and decorative. They apply to different parts of the product.
Connecting seams assemble the product into a single whole. This is the basis on which sewing production is based. Without these seams, it is generally impossible to do anything.
Marginal ones are designed to give the free ends of the product a complete, neat look. Such a machine seam serves not only as a decorative element, but also as a protection against rapid wear.
Finishing seams do not carry special structural functions. Rather, they serve as an additional decoration than a way to strengthen the integrity of the product.
Despite the fact that there are quite a few seams, there are certain requirements for them all. First of all, this is the absolute evenness of the line. Even if the needle writes zigzags or patterns, the center line should remain straight and not jump from side to side.
And the second is accuracy of execution. You can not scribble the product wherever you want. The designer calculated in advance the place where this is done. Deviation from the plan leads to damage to the finished product.
Seams connecting parts together
Any classification of machine seams begins with connecting. They are distinguished by several species. Although, to be honest, all these varieties are built on 2-3 main seams.
The most important is the seam seam. 80% of all products are connected by him. A welded seam is a variant of the previous one, intended for stitching products in those places where they lend themselves to the greatest friction
Double inversion seam is used in linen, especially bedding. It has high wear resistance and is quite simple to execute. The sewing seam can also be called decorative, since it does not have a pronounced front and back side. An overlay stitch is used where flaps need to be laid on each other. It is performed on the front side of the product.
All other machine seams, the schemes of which are known to professional seamstresses, are complicated versions of the ones mentioned above. Their expediency is justified only in individual cases, and ignorance of the technology for their implementation does not make the craftswoman less skilled.
Main joint seams
Any woman who at least once sat down at a sewing machine can do a stitching machine seam. It is performed as follows: two parts are folded face inwards and stitched with a regular line. At this moment, the concept of “seam width” appears. This is the distance from the edge of the product to the place where the stitch passes. Under normal conditions, it is 0.5-1 cm, but depending on the fabric and the product itself, it can be both thicker and thinner.
Allowances for the seam must be done at the time of cutting, otherwise the size of the product will be slightly smaller than originally planned.
A welded seam is a variant of a seam. After the two parts are joined with a seam, they are turned out so that the bending point is exactly at the place where the stitch passes. Thus make cuffs, pockets, straps. At the same time, the width of the weld seam is much smaller. It is 0.3-0.4 cm.
Knowing only these two seams, it is already possible to make most garments.
Inversion seam
In practice, making machine seams can be more complicated. A double inversion seam is not the most difficult, but it will take some skill to be perfect.
To start, we add two parts with the wrong sides to each other. We make an ordinary seam seam up to 0.5 cm wide, then we bend the product and from the wrong side we make the same seam seam, but 1 mm further than it was in the previous step. Thus, the edges of stitched parts are obtained hidden in a reliable pocket of fabric.
This double seam is used primarily in bedding, which is subjected to frequent washing, which means that the load on the free edges is much more than a conventional product.
It can also be found on children's clothes, but on the front side. In this way, scars are removed from the inside and inaccurate edges are hidden.
Seam
It has been proven that machine joints can also be decorative. An example of this is a seam (aka jeans) seam. The second name he received due to the frequent use in jeans trousers. As you know, the inner seam of this product must be very strong and reliable.
The technology for its implementation is not so simple and not the most complicated. It all starts with the fact that the connected parts fold unevenly relative to the edge. The lower part should protrude approximately 7 mm. Retreating 7-8 mm from the upper edge, the details are stitched. After that, the lower edge is wrapped up to the seam and covered with the upper part. All this construction is sewn first on one side, then on the other.
If you look, then this seam is some kind of inversion. Only here is the stitching done so that all the folds remain in the same plane with the product.
Less popular joining seams
Connecting machine seams, the schemes of which we examined above are the most popular. They are used in most cases. But there are no less interesting and other types of seams.
First of all, you need to pay attention to the laid on seam. It borders on decorative finishing, but still serves to connect the two parts. It is performed on the front side. There are two types: with a hidden edge and with a free one. The part that needs to be sewn is superimposed on the front side of the product, face up. If before this, stitch inward or smooth the edges, then they will be closed.
In this way, pockets, flirts and decorative patches are sewn.
A stitch seam is a decorative version of a stitch. After the product is sewn, the edges of the seam are smoothed and sewn strictly parallel to the main seam, at the same distance from it.
Finishing the edges of the product
Further classification of machine seams refers to the so-called edge seams. Their main task is to design the free edge of the product, such as the canopy of the skirt, the bottom of the trousers or the neckline. The appearance of the product and its durability depend on how carefully and reliably this is done.
There are two main types: hemming and edging. No additional flaps of fabric are used for cutting. The work is carried out with a free edge. For the edging, the edging is necessary, which is made from the same fabric as the main product, or from other flaps. It depends only on the initial idea of the fashion designer.
Leaving the edge of the product without any processing is impractical, since any fabric will crumble and loose, which will negatively affect the appearance of clothes and linen.
Main machine seams
Product cutting is a very responsible matter. It is produced by folding the fabric to the wrong side. There are several types of hem seams. If you simply bend the fabric and sew it at a distance of about 0.5 cm from the bend, we get a seam with an open edge. It looks good on the hem of a skirt and dress, as it is light and voluminous. But it’s better to overcast the free edge in advance to avoid shedding.
The hidden edge is done in the following way. The fabric is tucked inward, about 0.5 cm, and then again, but already 1-1.5 cm. Stitching is made from the wrong side with a seam width of about 1-2 mm. This ensures the safety of the edges.
And the last way to cut is a double seam. It is performed in the same way as the previous one, but the stitching is performed from both bends. The result is a strip on the edge, limited to two lines. This method is most often used in jeans and trousers. Also make a pocket in order to insert an elastic band.
The use of edging
The edging of a product is more a decorative move than a practical need. The use of hem seams is more justified, but they do not always justify their aesthetic appearance and how the fabric treated in this way behaves.
Edging is used on knitwear, as well as in light blouses to give them greater volatility.
The technology for making machine seams by the edging method belongs to the category of complex ones. The reason for this is the simultaneous control of three elements that need to be connected perfectly together. At the same time, the edging itself needs to hide its edges inside the finish.
To facilitate the task, to begin with, the edges are ironed on the edging flap so that they hold firmly from the wrong side. Then it is necessary to sweep away all parts of the product and only after that proceed to the line. The width of the seam when edging is 0.1-0.2 cm, this requires a certain skill from the seamstress.
Decorative stitches
Modern sewing machines can produce not one machine seam, but several dozen. This means that in those places where the line will be noticeable, it is not necessary to make it a straight line. If appropriate, you can zigzag, wave or crescent. This will make the outer side of the clothes more unusual and attractive.
Also, decorative stitches can be used as elements of a simple embroidery. To do this, you can practice a little to understand how a particular fabric behaves with this type of machine seam. A few minutes of exercises will allow you to get a completely unusual result, because it will already be some kind of author’s technique of embroidery with an ordinary sewing machine.
Decorative machine seam
The most important thing you need to know: decorative seams are always noticeable. Therefore, if you do them, then only one hundred percent qualitatively.
You can use them anywhere: make a fake pocket or sew a zipper that doesn’t open anything, sew along the length and breadth of the product, creating the effect of patchwork or quilting.
The main thing is not to be afraid to experiment and roughly imagine what result this or that additional line will give on a finished blouse or trousers.