Sewing clothes by hand has long been no longer profitable. With the help of a sewing machine, this happens faster and better. And different types of machine seams allow you to make the product as durable as possible. It tolerates well not only long-term operation, but also frequent washing. The main thing is to know in which case how to sew.
Seam classification
Even at school, children learn a variety of machine seams. Grade 7 even understands in practice how to perform them using a sewing machine.
All seams are divided into three types: connecting, edge and finishing. Connecting seams are designed to hold together different parts of the future product. Such machine seams are considered basic. Of course, there are quite unusual ones among them, but they are used extremely rarely.
Edge seams are designed to shape the edges of the product so that they do not fray and spoil the appearance. They are just as important as connecting ones. Although there are some techniques when the edges are left not trimmed. But these are special cases.
Finishing seams rarely connect parts of a product or form its edges. They are designed to decorate and create unusual effects. Machine seams are somewhere in the middle between embroidery and a regular seam.
Types of connecting seams
In the specialized literature, the terminology of machine seams is quite extensive, and sometimes a little synonymous. One and the same seam can have several names, but the technology of its execution does not change from this.
Tailors distinguish the following main types of seams:
- Grinding and grinding are used to easily connect two pieces of fabric.
- Double eversion seam is appropriate in bedding and children's clothing. It has not such a rough scar, and the edges of the fabric processed in this way do not fray.
- The boring seam is used in those places where the borders of the fabric connection must be hidden as much as possible.
- Sewing stitch has two options. Most often, he is found on jeans. Therefore, its second name is jeans.
- Adjustment seam is necessary in order to securely fasten two parts in the place where they will be under maximum load.
As you can see, machine seams are very diverse, and they are used for specific tasks. In order for them to have maximum efficiency, it is necessary to correctly observe the technology of their implementation.
Sewing and grouting seams
The main machine seams that connect the parts of the garment - stitch and fairing. In fact, these are variants of one seam used for different purposes.
The stitch seam is based on a thread stitch. At the same time, the width of the seam itself directly depends on the quality and properties of the fabric, as well as on the purpose of using the product. Width is the distance from the edge of the part to the line.
Its technology looks like this: product parts are folded with their faces to each other and stitched at a previously defined distance from the edge. Further, the sections can be ironed, that is, laid out on different sides and ironed, or ironed in one direction or on the edge.
For collars, straps, flap pockets and cuffs, it is more appropriate to use a welded seam. First, the product is sewn with a seam. Then, on the front side, it is necessary to sweep the product so that a small edging is obtained - 1-2 mm wide. But this is not an axiom. For example, a welded seam can be up to 8 mm if it is a crumbling fabric. These are the types of machine seam that are basic to tailors.
Denim stitch
This is a very durable and reliable seam. He was seen by everyone who has jeans at home. And they all have. In any manual you will find different types of machine seams, the table of which always contains several varieties of sewing (jeans). Its advantage is also that it looks equally beautiful both from the front side and from the inside.
The technology of its manufacture is understandable and relatively simple. Fold the two parts with the sides inward. In this case, the bottom should protrude a distance of about 1 cm from under the top. We sew the parts together at a distance of about 7 mm from the top edge. The first stage of work on the seam is completed.
The lower section of the product must be bent to the very stitch and covered with an upper layer of fabric. Turning the product over to the other side, we sew the fold at a distance of 1-2 mm from its edge on both sides. We will get a crease with two parallel lines that look the same both on the front side and on the wrong side.
Other connecting machine seams
False seams are widely used when connecting pockets or yokes to the product. They have an average degree of strength. At the same time, they need a high level of mastery of the seamstress, since an uneven stitch will spoil the appearance of the product.
This seam can be of two types: with an open and a closed edge. For a closed edge, the part is pre-ironed and bent to facilitate work with it. The seam technology is simple. The necessary part is superimposed on a pre-designated place and sewn with ordinary or decorative stitching. The sewing area is well smoothed.
The stitch seam refers to connective decorative. It is performed on the basis of the seam. Its width should be slightly larger, since the seam edges are smoothed from the wrong side and sewn parallel to the main one. The distance can be any. The main thing is to observe two important conditions:
1) the seams should be strictly parallel relative to the middle;
2) the distance from the central seam to the side should be ideally the same.
Otherwise, the whole decorative effect will disappear, and there will only be a sloppy product.
Edging Methods
It is important for any product to properly trim its edges. For industrial purposes and professional tailors for these purposes have an overlock. This machine allows you to sheathe the edge so that it will never crumble. But outwardly it does not look very neat. Therefore, visible edges lend themselves to additional processing.
For this purpose, both folding of the fabric and its edging are used. It depends on the type and structure of the material with which the master works. Also, operational characteristics impose their features on the processing of edges.
Most often, a variety of seams in the hem and edging machine seams are used. Grade 7 in schools parses the technologies of the main ones. Therefore, every woman knows approximately how they are performed and when they are best used.
Sometimes, to give a greater decorative effect, you can combine them with finishing seams or decorative stitches.
Seams in the hem
The most common types of machine seam for finishing the edge of the product are a variety of seams in the hem. Let's start with the simplest - with an open edge. We take the product and iron its edges on the wrong side. After this, we sew with a regular or decorative stitch at a distance of 5-7 mm from the bend. If we are dealing with crumbling fabric, then it is better to overlock it first. This type of seam is used so as not to weight the bottom of the product. But the edge is always subject to shredding.
A double seam allows you to hide the raw edge inward. To do this, first iron the edge in the direction of the wrong side, and then bend and iron again, hiding the edge inward. After this, we sew the seam in such a way as to sew both layers. Such a seam is more reliable, but also voluminous at the same time, which is not very good for lightweight products.
Another option for bending - a double seam is sewn twice, for 2-3 millimeters from the place of the lower bend, and we retreat the same distance from the upper inner bend. This kind of seam is found mainly in trousers and jeans, which are most susceptible to wear.
Edging seams
For the neck and bottom of the sleeves in blouses, sometimes radically different technology is needed. Machine seams here should be light and with minimal scars so as not to rub the skin. In such cases, edging seams are used.
To execute them without preliminary basting is quite difficult, since the seamstress has to follow the three edges. In this case, the edging is bent inward, which significantly complicates the process.
Edging is a flap of fabric that closes the outer edge of the product. It is selected so long that it is enough to finish around the perimeter. On both sides, the flap is ironed in the direction of the wrong side. Then it is swept to the product and is sewn as close to the edge as possible.
A slightly complicated option is the preliminary assembly of the product edge into folds. In such cases, the edging is simply necessary in order to add durability to the product. But stitching it is much more difficult so that the folds are even.
Decorative seams
Sewing a product is not a problem. It is much more difficult to make it beautiful, elegant and fashionable. For these purposes, there are different types of machine seams. The table of decorative stitches is always included with the sewing machine. Their use will significantly revive the product. But you can resort to more professional methods. To do this, you need to show a little imagination and sewing skills.
In fact, all decorative seams are based on connecting and edge. It’s just that they’re using techniques that are not quite specific to them. Which ones, consider below.
Complicated cut
We all know that, for example, a blouse consists of two front shelves and a back. There is nothing particularly decorative about this. Pure classic and boring. But the same shelves can be cut out from two or more parts, and to connect them use different types of machine seams, the schemes of which we examined above.
Add a little "bullying" in the cuffs. We will sew them with a false seam, and even from several rags. At the same time, the edges of the latter are a little disheveled, as if they were small patches. Of course, this technique will work out only with natural fabric, which practically does not crumble. But this shows the main principle of finishing seams - do not be afraid to experiment.
Sewing machines
To perform the main types of machine seams, a household sewing machine is enough. In addition to the kit with modern models often there are additional legs and nozzles that facilitate this process. Some of them even allow you to make small embroideries, which is important in the process of decorating products.
At the same time, some craftswomen say that no modern model can compare with the classic Soviet cars. This indicates that for quality work skill and a little professional intuition are enough.