Ceilings in private houses are usually made of wood: they stack beams, and then they knock them down from the bottom with a board. If the house does not have a heated attic, the ceiling in the building must be insulated. Yes, and with equipment in the attic of a living room, laying something with an overlap will not hurt. Indeed, most modern heaters, among other things, can also serve as excellent soundproofers.
Material selection
So, let's see how to insulate a wooden ceiling in a house. And to begin with, we will figure out what type of insulator is best to choose in a particular case. Typically, ceilings in suburban buildings are insulated:
- mineral wool;
- polystyrene foam;
- sawdust;
- expanded clay.
Advantages and disadvantages of mineral wool
This heat insulator is currently the most popular and is most often used in private homes. Its main advantages include:
- Low cost.
- Easy to install.
- High heat-saving qualities.
- Insulation of the ceiling in the house with this material allows, among other things, to improve the soundproof properties of the ceilings.
- Durability.
- Incombustibility.
The disadvantages of this material include:
- The ability to accumulate moisture and lose at the same time part of its heat-insulating qualities.
- Not too high degree of environmental cleanliness.
Expanded polystyrene
This material is also an excellent answer to the question of how to insulate a wooden ceiling in a house. It is a light environmentally friendly stove. Although they are manufactured using a slightly different technology, the outward appearance is very reminiscent of the well-known foam plastic. They differ from the latter in that they practically do not crumble and retain heat much better. Expanded polystyrene serves much longer than polystyrene foam. Unlike mineral wool, this material is not at all afraid of moisture. Its main advantage over the basalt insulator is the smaller thickness with the same heat-saving qualities.
Its disadvantages include only a rather high cost and combustibility. In addition, it is strongly not recommended to use this material if there are rodents in the house. Mice simply love to make moves and holes in foamy materials.
Expanded clay
This material is also very often used to insulate a wooden ceiling in a private house. Expanded clay is a special porous granules made of clay. The material is very inexpensive and retains heat very well. Its main advantage is that it can serve much longer than any other insulation. Not afraid of expanded clay and water. In addition, it is very durable and fireproof.
Sawdust
The main advantages of this bulk material are absolute environmental cleanliness and low weight. Warming the ceiling with sawdust is very inexpensive. At sawmills, this material is sold literally for a penny, and sometimes it is completely free. The disadvantages of sawdust include primarily a very high degree of risk of fire. In addition, they may dry out or begin to rot. Like polystyrene foam, mice or rats can be introduced into them.
Insulation of a wooden ceiling in a private house with mineral wool
When insulating the ceiling from the attic, this material is laid as follows:
- In the building under construction, the ceiling itself from the edged board is stuffed onto the beams from below. If the house is old and the floors in the attic are already in it, they should be mounted on a cellular frame.
- A vapor insulator is laid between the beams. You can use either polyethylene or foil material. The latter option is more expensive, but it performs its function much better. In addition, the foil is able to reflect heat back into the room. Therefore, such materials, in addition to everything else, are also able to retain heat additionally. On the existing attic floors in old houses, the vapor insulator is laid before installing the frame under the slabs.
- At the next stage, the actual mineral wool itself is mounted. They put her in disagreement. That is, the step between the beams should be slightly less than the width of the plates. This allows you to arrange the most effective insulation. Lay cotton wool to start from the farthest corner from the door. In order to make it convenient to walk along the ceiling, it is worth laying the attic with strips of plywood.
- A waterproofing layer is laid on top of the mineral wool in the event that no attic insulation is expected in the future. If the roof is waterproofed with a film, this step can be skipped.
- Next, the finishing floor of the attic is stuffed.
In the same way, the wooden ceiling is insulated in a brick house, block or poured from concrete. If there is a chimney in the attic, the plates are superimposed on it to a height of 40-50 cm and are fixed.
Inside mounting
Next, we will see how to insulate the wooden ceiling in the house with mineral wool from the side of the living room. Most often, the material in this case is installed simultaneously with the installation of a false ceiling. Pre-assembled metal frame for drywall. The distance between its constituent profiles is usually 40 cm. Mineral wool slabs have a width of 50-120 cm. Therefore, the installation is performed using the accordion method. Cotton wool is simply slipped under the frame elements. In this case, the plates are installed close to each other. Performing this work, you should try not to crush the material. Otherwise, wool will lose some of its performance.
Do-it-yourself insulation of the ceiling from the inside continues with the installation of a vapor barrier film. Next, the GKL themselves are installed on the frame. In the event that the installation of false ceilings is not carried out, the work is performed according to a slightly different technology:
- Previously, the ceiling is covered with a vapor barrier film. If there is no attic on top, it is better to use a waterproofing membrane.
- Then a wooden crate is stuffed on it. For its manufacture, bars with a section of 30 * 30 - 40 * 40 mm are used. In this case, the step between the frame elements is made so that the slabs lie by surprise.
- At the next stage, mineral wool is inserted between the bars. In the event that the crate was installed correctly, the plates will hold well and just like that. However, in order to completely eliminate the risk of loss, it is worthwhile to additionally fix them with special dowels, fungi.
- Next, a vapor barrier film is pulled onto the frame . You need to nail it with slats with a thickness of three centimeters. Thus, an additional ventilation layer will be arranged.
- At the next stage, the ceiling is usually lined with plywood and glued with ceiling tiles.
Installation of expanded polystyrene
Now let's figure out how to insulate the ceiling in a wooden house using another modern material. Typically, expanded polystyrene is laid in the attic in the same way as mineral wool - between the beams or in the crate. However, it is completely allowed to mount it directly on the attic floors, if any, that is, without installing a frame. In this case, the base must be thoroughly cleaned of dirt and leveled. Further work is done like this:
- Check if the floor boards have not rotted or moved away.
- Lay a layer of vapor barrier. Mounting is done on staplers.
- From the corner farthest from the door, they begin to lay out the plates of expanded polystyrene. At the same time, make sure that the joints do not converge on the cross. That is, they perform laying apart.
- The joints between the plates are sealed with mounting foam and additionally glued with construction tape.
- Since the slabs are rather fragile material, on top of them they either fill the board, or pour a cement screed of 3-4 cm. In the first case, before laying the polystyrene foam on the floors, it will be necessary to fill several lags.
The use of expanded polystyrene from the inside
Warming of a wooden ceiling in a private house in this case is as follows:
- The ceiling is thoroughly cleaned of dirt, old plaster (if any), etc.
- After that, it should be primed.
- Further on the ceiling - using glue for polystyrene foam - polystyrene foam boards are glued. In this case, the material should also be additionally fixed with “fungi”.
- A reinforcing mesh is glued over the plates.
- Next, the ceiling is plastered.
Of course, it is possible to mount polystyrene foam in the same way as mineral wool, that is, in the crate. In this case, the ceiling at the final stage is sheathed with plywood, lining or edged board.
We warm a ceiling in a wooden house expanded clay
In this case, the space between the floor beams is pre-fitted with roofing felt. You can also use a very thick plastic film. The waterproofing material should also cover the beams themselves. The seams on the roofing material are glued with bitumen mastic, on the film - with adhesive tape. Along the perimeter of the attic, the waterproofing material should be raised to the height of the future backfill layer.
Next, the ceiling is actually insulated with expanded clay. Sometimes pre-ruberoid is coated with clay solution. The thickness of the expanded clay layer is usually 12-16 cm. It is advisable to use a material having different fractions of granules. In this case, the insulating layer will be more dense and even. Sometimes, to enhance the thermal insulation effect, expanded clay is added to expanded clay.
The insulator is covered with a waterproofing film on top. Next, a concrete screed with a thickness of 4-5 cm is arranged. 20 days after pouring, you can begin to finish the floor.
Sawdust insulation
For such a material, cement is typically used as a binder. In order to prevent rodents, a little lime can also be added to the sawdust. Rotting is prevented by the use of borax.
As with expanded clay insulation, the attic floors in this case are first covered with roofing material or plastic wrap. You can also use sheet glassine.
The following requirements are imposed on the sawdust itself:
- They must be aged for at least a year.
- The material must be dry.
- It is not allowed to carry out insulation of the ceiling with sawdust, rotten or infected insects.
- It is best to use medium-sized sawdust.
After the floors of the attic are prepared and waterproofed, proceed to the preparation of the insulation solution itself. For this, ten buckets of sawdust take one bucket of cement and half a bucket of lime. In addition, a glass of borax is bred in a bucket of water and this solution is sprayed from a watering can over the mixture. The amount of water depends on the moisture level of the sawdust. Usually you have to add 5-10 liters.
The chimney before laying the insulation of this type must be laid with refractory material. Wiring in the attic in this case is drawn in special metal pipes. Screed over sawdust insulation is not necessary. The frozen mixture itself will be strong enough.
So, now you know how to insulate the wooden ceiling in the house. If the work will be performed from the inside, use thinner polystyrene foam. When insulating from the attic, it is better to take mineral wool. You can save money by using expanded clay or sawdust.