With the arrival of warm summer days, I so want to please myself with new things! And for this it is absolutely not necessary to run to an expensive boutique for a trendy dress. Today, products of the simplest cut using natural fabrics have come into fashion. And this means that tailoring a new fashionable outfit will not be difficult even for those who are just learning the basics of cutting and sewing. About how to build a dress pattern of a simple cut, and will be discussed in this article.
The choice of material and accessories
Of course, the appearance of any product directly depends on the canvas selected for work. The simplest pattern of a direct dress is ideal for sewing batista, staple, silk and even cotton knitwear such as a cooler and interlock.
For dress paintings that do not stretch, you will definitely need additional accessories: buttons or lightning. But for knitwear, these elements may be needed only as an element of decor.
Calculation of the right amount of fabric
What cut of material is needed for the dress? This question is faced by every skilled worker, and inexperienced seamstresses often lead to a dead end. However, there is nothing complicated in calculating the required amount of canvas. First of all, you need to determine the length of the product, measure the circumference of the chest, hips and waist and find out the width of the fabric. For example, for a non-standard figure with wide hips, the girth of which is 110 cm, a pattern of a dress of a simple cut of 50 sizes should be placed on the canvas. This means that the product will require one length of the web 1.4–1.5 meters wide or 2 lengths of 80 cm wide. Here you also need to remember about allowances for processing the bottom of the product and possible hemming.
Taking measurements
To make the product fit perfectly on the figure, you need to take measurements correctly. To build a pattern, the following values are required:
- girths of the neck, chest, waist, hips;
- shoulder width;
- height and solution of tucks in the chest;
- the length of the front and back to the waist;
- back width.
Building patterns
It should immediately be said that the construction of dresses is not done immediately on the canvas. First, a template is made, which is then transferred to the fabric. For such a workpiece, you can take glued sheets of paper or ordinary building film. The latter option is more practical if you plan to use the template repeatedly. A dress pattern of a simple cut is built in a rectangle. In the drawing, by successively transferring the measurements, half of the front and half of the back of the product are drawn.
The first stage of construction: a set of basic mesh. It includes all the main lines: the border of the shoulder seams, the line of the chest, waist and hips, the border of the bottom of the product, as well as the vertical length. Initially, the dress pattern of a simple cut should look like a rectangle with horizontal divisions. Next, the drawing is detailed. In the upper corners draw the halves of the neck for the back and front. On the back, the extreme points are overestimated by 0.5 cm. Then, shoulder lines are drawn from these points at an angle of 15 degrees.
After they move to the chest line and there they indicate half the width of the back and raise the vertical to the upper border. Next, determine the armhole zone: the half-girth of the chest is divided by 4 and 2 cm is added. From the side of the middle of the front, half of the solution of the tucks of the breast is laid off and the vertical is raised. At the intersection with the shoulder seam, they put a point and lay 2-3 cm to the edge of the shoulder for tucking on the chest. The humeral line is extended to a similar segment, and the tuck is closed with an auxiliary line to the starting point on the chest border. After the armhole is drawn. A dress pattern of a simple cut can be without tuck darts, which means that designating the width of the hips will be the final stage of construction.
So, on the hips line from the vertical borders of the rectangle, measurements of the circumference of the hips are laid off and dots are set. After draw a side seam from the middle of the zone of the armhole through the border of the hips and to the bottom of the hem.
Modeling
In order for the product to fit nicely in the figure, you can arrange the tuck tucks. Another option is to narrow it down and make a cut in the back, or, on the contrary, to flare it, giving it a trapezoid shape. This option is the ideal pattern of dresses for beginners. Simple and easy to build, they sit very harmoniously on the figure. In addition, such dresses can be decorated with fashionable flounces or peplum at the waist. You can also add a relief product by cutting the details of the cut into elements. Also interesting would be the option of combining color. For example, on a beige dress black inserts on the sides will look original. Visually, this move will allow you to stretch the silhouette, giving it grace and harmony.
Cutting the canvas
The important points that you should pay attention to when cutting parts from fabric are as follows:
- the direction of the drawing on the canvas, so that the dress does not turn upside down flowers;
- “Flowability” of fabric, which requires wider allowances for seams;
- shrinkage of the linen during washing (it is recommended to stretch the cotton linen first so that the product does not become small).
Product assembly
When all the elements are cut out, it remains only to assemble the dress. The first step is to close the chest tucks. Next, the shoulder seams and process the neck and armholes. Next is the turn of the side seams and hem of the product. All seams must be treated with an overlock or zigzag. The neck can be decorated with an oblique edging sewn from the inside or with a full selection that duplicates the back and front parts along the sections of the throat and armhole for about 5-7 cm along the contour.
Quite often, a light cut is used to sew chic dresses . And many fashion magazines confirm this. For example, the famous publication, where a simple pattern is often used, is Burda. A long dress of a simple cut made of chic silk with a thin leather belt or a guipure product with the finest delicate lining are the best products based on simple lines of easy construction. Therefore, it's time to tune in to work and create your own masterpiece with your own hands. And the beauty will be that no one will meet in the same dress. After all, individuality is one of the most important advantages of every fashionable woman who respects herself.