The overwhelming majority of models of men's and women's trousers are tailored to a specific type of human figure. For an ideal fit of products, they most often include elements such as a belt, tucks, folds, and, of course, codpiece. What is this, not everyone knows, and the importance of this unprepossessing at first glance details of clothing can hardly be overestimated. In this article we will analyze what a codpiece is, why it is needed and how to sew it into pants correctly.
Evolution
Few people know that during the time of knightly tournaments, when warriors wore heavy armor, such an element of combat clothing was invented as a codpiece. That this is an important invention and it will reach our days, probably no one imagined. Of course, since then, the codpiece has changed beyond recognition.
Initially, it was a metal plate, which served as a cover for the groin, its protection. This element of armor could look different - a small detail covering the male dignity, or even a rather large-sized structure, which was attached in front of the groin, and from the back to the belt above the buttocks.
Over time, others learned what codpiece is. It was part of men's clothing (trousers, pantalon), but its appearance was somewhat different from what we used to see. This detail was a rectangle that was attached to the pants on buttons.
We cover the innermost
The codpiece in the photo is an element of classic trousers (less often than skirts). It is a fabric part that covers the slot between the left and right halves of the pants, fastened with a zipper, buttons or buttons. Another, but less well-known name for such an element of clothing is oversight. It is very important for beginner tailors to understand initially how important it is to be able to carve out and correctly sew in a codpiece, what it is in general, because this is probably the most significant place in trousers.
The codpiece is located in the front of the pants, in a prominent place, if it is sewn incorrectly, then the pants will sit ugly, and wearing such pants will be uncomfortable. In addition, you must also learn to distinguish between concepts such as codpiece and slope. The first is the outer part, behind which the clasp is hidden, the second is a piece of fabric that prevents underwear, linen or skin from getting into the zipper teeth, insert a slope under the zipper.
Important points
Sewing in a codpiece, which is the front part of trousers, moreover, is quite functional and requires accuracy. An unsuccessfully open zipper can simply “chew on the fabric,” and then it will be difficult to avoid an incidental situation. In order to protect yourself from such awkwardness in advance, you should not expand or narrow the codpiece, lightning is not sewn to the trousers, but to the gap - this is a fundamental point.
There is a difference in how to sew a codpiece in women's and men's trousers. So, it is believed that in women's pants the codpiece is attached to the right, for men, on the contrary, this part must be inserted into the left half of the trousers. If a thin fabric is used for sewing, it is better to duplicate the codpiece and the slope, so the material will not wrinkle. However, this is not worth doing with thick fabrics - the product may turn out to be excessively coarse.
Cut codpiece
There are also differences in the way the codpiece is cut out (photo of the workpiece above). This part can be one-piece or stitched. In the first embodiment, during the construction of the main pattern of the product, an additional element must be attached to the circuit - a gap, which is a rectangle 5 cm wide, 19 cm long. It is important to remember to round the outer lower corner of the part. The slope is always cut out separately. For him, you need to prepare a small piece of fabric in advance, it is better if it is the material from which the product is made. The size of the bounce varies in the following ranges:
- Width (weaved on a thread of a duck) - 7-8 cm.
- Length (along the shared thread) - 18-20 cm.
After cutting and duplication, the slope must be folded in half (on the long side) and sew with an overlock. It is also necessary to process the codpiece (one-piece clearance) with an overlock.
Fine work
Direct stitching of lightning and the subsequent removal of the codpiece is a difficult and responsible task. It is very important that all parts are tailored correctly and that there are no distortions.
Before starting sewing, you need to make allowances under the zipper. To do this, on the left half of the trousers (women’s, or the right - for men) draw a strip along the line of the middle seam, backing 1 cm toward the outer edge of the gap. Then, bending the fabric along this line, sweep the resulting allowance, and placing a zipper under it with the left side, so that only the teeth are visible, pin it. Place the slope under the fastener, aligning its upper edge with the waistline on the trousers, and the lower one with the other end of the zipper, and then stitch it. Fold the legs together, leveling them along the middle seam (face). And the zipper (right, free side, if the trousers are for men - then the left) should be sewn to the right side.
After stitching the zipper, the middle seam must be sewn by connecting the centers of the trousers. The line should be laid to the limiter on the lock, not reaching it half a centimeter. The last, final step will be the laying of the finishing line according to the codpiece, so that the seam turns out to be even. It should be laid along the previously planned line.