Traveling around Georgia, one cannot but visit the man-made miracle of the Golden Age - a real cave city carved in the bowels of a picturesque rock.
The winding, hidden corridors in the depths of the dungeon, an ancient monastery with a unique collection of frescoes and almost a thousand-year history - this is Vardzia. Georgia is deservedly proud of its monumental historical site, ranking it among the most outstanding monuments of ancient architecture and national culture of the country.
Ancient Vardzia - a colorful dot on the map of modern Georgia
Geographically, Vardzia (Georgia) is located near the Turkish border in the south of the country, next to the village of the same name near Akhalkalaki in the province of Samtskhe-Javakheti. The cave monastery is located in the picturesque valley of the Kura River (Mtkvari in Georgian), surrounded on all sides by the majestic mountains of the Caucasus. On the expanses of the Javakheti Highlands, a sheer cliff of Erusheti rises (which in Georgian sounds like Bear Mountain), pitted with lace of cave openings and winding manholes of the ancient monastery.
The legendary origin of the name of the city
The etymology of the sonorous name of Vardzia is immediately explained by several ancient legends. The legend, telling about little Tamar, playing with her uncle in the caves of the monastery being built, is especially fond of Georgians. Having lost sight of the girl, the man began to look around, and at that moment the young princess suddenly appeared behind him, issuing an exclamation “Ak var, jia!” (I'm here, uncle!). Tsar George liked the melodic harmony so much that he decided to call the fortress the words of his daughter, in honor of the future queen.
According to another version, which historians are inclined to adhere to, the name Vardzia comes from the Persian "varj" - as the Persians called the ancient inhabitants of Georgia.
The history of the construction of an ancient fortification
The history of the monastery complex escapes into the depths of the XII century, the reign of Queen Tamara, which to this day is revered by all of Georgia. The cave city of Vardzia was built as a reliable fortification, designed to protect the Borjomi Gorge from the warlike Mongols-southerners. The natural system of underground grottoes of Mount Erusheti provided an excellent basis for a future impregnable fortress, the construction of which was begun under King George III and continued by his legendary daughter Tamara.
Once the monastery was completely and completely hidden in the bowels of the rock, connecting to the surface with a labyrinth of underground passages. The strongest earthquake in the history of these places, which shook the region at the end of the 13th century, brought down the outer part of the mountainside, exposing the previously unseen premises of the temple city.
Desolation and subsequent resurrection of Vardzia
In the following centuries, the country was repeatedly plundered by the Tatar-Mongolian and Persian forces, including Vardzia. Georgia remembers the largest fire set up by the Persians in 1551. This disaster claimed the lives of the monks of the monastery, but, paradoxically, it provided immortality to the unique decoration of the monastery. Murals and wall paintings hidden under soot have been safely preserved to this day.
The Ottomans who captured the fortress in the 16th century owned this area for more than two hundred years, during which the monastery remained uninhabited. Two centuries later, Russian troops recaptured the ancient city from the Ottoman Empire, and under the arches of the ancient temple life began to boil again.
Nowadays, Vardzia is a national monument of Georgia actively visited by tourists and the current monastery. The first after a centuries-long break, the liturgy sounded within the walls of the church in the late 80s.
Since 2004, the Ministry of Culture of the country has organized restoration work, during which recovery systems were restored, and cracks made by time were concreted. For the safety of the monks and visitors, reinforcing supports were erected. The issue of inclusion of the cave city in the UNESCO World Heritage List is being considered.
The architectural masterpiece of medieval Georgia
So what is amazing about Vardzia? Georgia has many cave buildings and monasteries, but this place is truly special. This underground city, enchanting monumental and complex structures the system! The multi-storey complex of Vardzia includes more than six hundred grottoes and caves of natural and man-made origin, connected by a network of streets and tunnels extending 800 meters in length and over 50 meters deep into the mountains.
The temple complex united fifteen churches, the heart of which was and still is the magnificent temple of the Assumption of the Virgin. In addition to places of worship, the architectural ensemble of the rocky city included residential and auxiliary buildings, refectory, libraries, baths and a 3.5 km long water supply.
In the event of a military threat, the impregnable arches of the fortress could accommodate up to 20 thousand people and withstand a prolonged siege, and the three secret tunnels leading outward provided the Georgian troops with an unexpected attack on the enemy’s military forces.
Sights of the cave complex
If you ask the Georgians which object makes them really proud, many will answer: Vardzia. Georgia (where the famous cave complex is located, we told at the beginning of the article) ranks the monastery among the richest places of interest in places of interest.
Today it is an ennobled cultural site, equipped with electricity, comfortable stairs and secure fences. The main entrance to the cave city is a small bell tower, built after a historic earthquake. This peculiar front door leads to the central church of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary, located in a spacious grotto. The unique frescoes with the faces of saints crowning its walls, Tsaritsa Tamara and George III are of great artistic value. The vaults of the temple are painted with traditional biblical subjects. According to legend, Queen Tamara found repose here .
The Church of the Assumption is located deep in the cliff, and only the arches of the narthex are visible from the outside, the altar hides a secret passage into a small room for utensils and temple attire. Narrow passages lead to other small churches and temples hidden in the depths of the cave city, there is also a small spring that provides water to the existing monastery, where today about fifteen monks live.
Such is the picturesque Vardzia (Georgia). The sights of this area are not limited to an ancient monastery. In the vicinity of the rocky city you can get acquainted with the history of the fortifications of Tmogvi and Khertvisi, visit the cathedral of the 10th century Kumurdo, visit the even more ancient cave monastery Vanis Kvabebi.
Vardzia (Georgia): how to get to the cave city-monastery
If you have chosen a trip to Vardzia as a route, it is best to start the journey from the southern city of Akhaltsikhe. You can use the car rental service and get to the cave complex yourself. The road takes an hour. Also from the town shuttle buses "Akhaltsikhe (Georgia) - Vardzia". Where to stay for a while? You have a great choice. Typically, travelers are accommodated in numerous guesthouses in the Samtskhe-Javakheti region. You can spend the night in small hotels, hostels or rented apartments of the village itself.
Not far from the monastery complex, a modern hotel with the Vardziarezot restaurant has opened, offering a breathtaking panorama of the cave city. A particularly impressive sight in the dark - the monastery is illuminated by bright lights. Some tourists prefer to camp or spend the night under the picturesque Georgian sky.
Interesting points for visitors
- The cave city is open to visitors all year round, working hours - from 9 to 19 hours. The inspection of the entire cave complex will take at least 2.5-3 hours. Ticket price - 3 GEL (approximately 100 rubles) for adults, children's ticket - 1 GEL.
- Planning a visit to the underground monastery? It will not be amiss to stock up on a flashlight - many corridors and passages of the complex are wrapped in impenetrable darkness.
- The caves are pretty cool even on hot summer days, so when packing for the trip, be sure to bring warm clothes with you.
- Organized excursion tours to the Vardzia monastery complex are carried out by almost all travel agencies in Georgia.
If you are planning an exciting and informative trip to one of the most ancient corners of the near abroad - your choice is Vardzia (Georgia). Photos of the picturesque beauty of the underground monastery and the surrounding mountains will delight and give warm memories for many years to come.