Want to make a beautiful dress, but still doubt your abilities? Drive away all doubts from yourself! Any newbie will be able to sew a free-cut dress with her own hands , a pattern of which is built in just 10 minutes. No complicated calculations and intricate formulas, just a little patience and perseverance - and you can brag about the amazing new thing.
The secret of stylish dress
Undoubtedly, a dress is that thing that will be an appropriate outfit at any event, whether it be a walk with a child, a party or a business meeting. Its versatility directly depends on the choice of fabric for the product itself and accessories that will complement the image.
It is clear that a stylish dress looks only if the right shoes, a strap or a decorative collar and a handbag are matched to it. And if we talk about style and pattern, a loose-fitting dress is an ideal option for experimenting with style.
Fabric and color
An important role is played by color. The monophonic cloth gives more opportunities to play with accessories. Variegated prints limit, because it is not customary to appear in the office, for example, in a dress resembling the color of a parrot. At the same time, calm peas, a cage or strip will look appropriate in both sports and business style.
As for the type of canvas, for the summer, silk, staple, cambric, chiffon, viscose are suitable. For the cold season, it is better to choose more dense fabrics, for example, velveteen, poplin, wool or velvet.
Basic template - head around
Absolutely all clothes are built on the basis of the basic pattern. Free-cut dresses are no exception. And vice versa, this product does not require any modifications to the basic template. Without tuck-in darts, without additional shaped lines and cut elements, which at times facilitates work on the product. In fact, a ready-made basic template is the very pattern of a dress of a free silhouette. So the thing is small - to build a foundation, and you can begin to cut the fabric.
To build a pattern of a dress of free cut, the following measurements will be required:
- girths of the neck;
- breast
- Waist
- hips;
- chest height;
- height of the back and front to the waist;
- shoulder width;
- a solution of tucks in the chest;
- the length of the sleeve;
- length of the product.
For the template, it is most convenient to use building film. It does not tear and does not crease like paper. A permanent marker, a ruler and a centimeter tape are also required.
Rectangle for pattern
The drawing begins with a vertical equal to the length of the dress:
- From its extreme points, at the right angle, lay horizontals equal to half the measure “chest circumference”.
- The lines are closed in a rectangle.
- Further, the value corresponding to the height of the chest recedes along the left vertical from above and draws a horizontal line of the chest.
- According to the measurement "the height of the back and front to the waist", draw a horizontal "waist line".
- On the back, as a rule, it passes slightly higher than in front.
- 20-22 cm below indicate the line of the hips.
In this drawn rectangle, the right vertical is the middle of the back, and the left is the middle of the front.
Shoulders and neck
Next, the values of the measurements are transferred horizontally, forming a basic grid in the drawing:
- First, the neck is designated along the back, departing from the angle 1/3 of the measurement “neck circumference”.
- From the obtained point, they rise upwards by 1.5 cm and draw a smooth bend to the upper left corner of the rectangle.
- From the point of the neckline, slope a shoulder line (measure “shoulder width”).
- The slope for high shoulders is 1.5 cm, for normal - 2.5 cm, for sloping - 3.5 cm. This distance is measured from the upper horizontal. These moments should be drawn on the drawing, even if you need a dress pattern of a casual cut with a boat neckline. This will avoid the errors of planting the product on the figure.
- Next, draw the neck of the front from the upper right corner of the rectangle.
- Half the measure is divided into two, half a centimeter is added and the edge of the neck is raised to the obtained value in front. The width of the neckline, as on the back, should be 1/3 of the “neck circumference” measurement.
- The neckline is drawn in a smooth line from the top point to the corner of the rectangle.
- Then proceed to the shoulder section. In front, it should be 105 cm lower than on the back. But on the basic pattern of a loose-fitting dress, a tuck for the chest is located in the shoulder section. After it can be transferred to the side seam. Therefore, the shoulder section is designated after the armhole on the back is ready.
Armhole, tuck and side seam
- From the left vertical, along the chest line, measure half the value of the width of the back, put a point and raise the perpendicular to the upper border of the rectangle. This will be the back zone.
- The next is the armhole zone. Its width along the chest should be equal to half the circumference of the chest, divided by 4 + 2 cm. The remaining part is the zone of the shelf. The armhole zone is also closed perpendicular to the upper horizontal of the drawing.
- On the perpendicular separating the back zone, measure 1/3 of its part from the line of the chest and put a point.
- On the chest line find the middle of the armhole zone. A smooth line connects these points with the shoulder cut.
- Further on the perpendicular zone of the ledge and armhole also put a point at the level of 1/3 of its height. Remember that the shoulder seam in front should be inclined 1.5 cm lower than on the back. In this case, the armhole is shifted towards the armhole zone by a distance equal to half of the chest circumference, divided by 10.
- This point is connected to the top of the neck of the front.
- Next, work out a chest tuck. From the right vertical ½ measures “breast tuck solution” recede, from this point the perpendicular is raised. At the intersection with the shoulder section, 4 cm depart from the obtained point and lower the line to the starting point of the tuck.
- Further along the line of the hips from the left and from the right vertical, 1/4 of the circumference of the hips + 2 cm is laid. Through these points, a side seam is laid from the middle of the armhole to the lower border of the rectangle.
- To build a pattern of a loose-fitting dress with pockets along the thigh line, a burlap pocket is drawn. It can be made as one-piece or sewn.
If you need a pattern of a loose-fitting dress with a sleeve, then you will need to cut out the template, glue additional film and extend the shoulder section to the desired length, and turn the side seam along the armhole so that the lower and upper sections of the sleeve are parallel.