A sleeve pattern, long or short, is an indispensable part of all classic clothing models. A few simple calculations, an accurate eye and half an hour of time - that’s all we need when constructing a sleeve base pattern. We will draw a pattern according to the Italian technique, which is distinguished by its simplicity and lack of fit. The result will fit perfectly on the figure, which is important.
Taking measurements
Getting started is always the same. It is not so important whether you are going to sew trousers or if you need a dress pattern with a sleeve - first you need to take the necessary measurements. In our case, you need to measure your hand as accurately as possible. Here's how to do it:
- Determine the length of the arm from the shoulder to the elbow. It is important to start the measuring tape precisely on the shoulder, that is, on the place where this part of the hand begins to smoothly curl down. As a rule, this is almost the edge of the hand (from half a centimeter to two).
- Determine the desired length of your sleeve. To do this, measure the entire length of the arm from the shoulder to the wrist or slightly lower. In general, it all depends on which sleeve you want - long or three quarters.
- Determine the girth of the hand by two indicators, measuring it at the level of the wrist and elbow. By the way, the last measurement needs to be approached very responsibly: the slightest mistake can lead to the fact that you "do not fit" into the sleeve, even sewing clothes from a very elastic fabric. Therefore, it is best to bend your elbow with your hand on your belt.
Sleeve Pattern: Build
We need to draw a rectangle at four points: A, B, C, and D, in which the two sides will be equal to the length of our sleeve, and the two horizontal sides will be its width. The last indicator can be calculated by measuring the half-circumference of the chest and dividing it by three, and then adding another three centimeters to this third. All that happened, multiply by two and get the width of the sleeve.
Then you need to determine the height of the okat. It is equal to three quarters of the depth of the armhole (can be measured by your usual blouse) minus a centimeter. We postpone the resulting number on the left side of the sleeve down, put a point and draw a horizontal line from it to the right to the right side.
The sleeve pattern includes auxiliary lines. To build them, you need to divide the upper horizontal line (sleeve width) by 4. From all division points, lower the perpendiculars down. Then through the midpoint (the highest at the sleeve) of the points indicated in the previous step, draw a smooth line. This will be the dusk.
The bottom of the sleeve should not be flat, but slightly wavy. To the middle will go the so-called hollow, starting a centimeter from the bottom on the left side and ending at the same level in the middle. And from the center - a kind of bulge of similar size.
This basic principle of construction will help you out when you need a dress pattern with a long sleeve, coat or jacket. But also on its basis, with your individual standards, absolutely any sleeve, absolutely any model of clothing can be built. Having understood the main principles, you will be able to experiment, and soon any pattern of the sleeve will take you just a few minutes.