Many gardeners love to breed root roses. They are grown by those who want to have a large assortment of a wide variety of varieties on their site. You can borrow your favorite types from neighbors and friends. If you try, it’s easy to grow incredibly beautiful specimens on your own in the plot. Root roses are different from those grafted on a dog rose. The latter are most often sold in markets, fairs, and in stores. It is advisable to have both the one and the other on the site, since each of them has its minuses and pluses.
Choosing a place to land
If you decide to grow root roses, then it is better to choose a place for planting from the south or south-west side of the site. Roses are very demanding on the composition of the soil and the presence of nutrients in it.
Own roses grow well, bloom profusely, with good shelter they easily tolerate wintering. The soil for planting should be rich in humus, well drained, with a groundwater level of at least 1 meter to the soil surface. Clayy, heavy soil does not warm well and is not suitable for growing root roses.
If there is no natural slope, it is better to plant roses in raised beds. Under such conditions, good soil warming and normal water flow are ensured.
Planting a root of your own rose
After the place and soil are chosen correctly, you can begin to land. In pre-prepared pits, seedlings are required to be lowered. Own roses are carefully knocked out of the pot with a lump of earth and planted in such a way that the bush in the ground sits 3-4 cm lower than it was in the pot. Such immersion in the soil will allow it to take root better and will enable the active development of additional subordinate roots.
When planting roses in rows, the distances between the bushes should be observed:
- polyantes - 25x50 cm;
- climbing and other vigorous roses - 100x200 cm;
- hybrid tea - 35x50 cm.
After the bushes are planted, the beds need to be abundantly watered, mulched with peat or humus.
Own roses: care
For the vegetation to proceed normally, the flowering was lush and colorful, roses require a lot of water. Especially root roses are finicky in this matter. This is explained by the fact that many of them have a horizontally located surface root system. If the top layer of the soil, along with the roots, is too hot, the plants are so depressed that they slow down in growth and completely stop flowering.
It is necessary to irrigate and loosen the soil, break the crust that remains after the rains. Throughout the summer period, roses are required to be fed once every two weeks. An excellent remedy is fresh mullein with additives from mineral fertilizers.
Summer period
The most flowering of root roses occurs in August, September, especially if the weather is warm with moderate rainfall. By this period, bushes on well-treated, loose soils are perfectly rooted. The root system expands in all directions, the crown is actively developing, giving subsequently abundant flowering.
It is worth noting that when caring for root roses, it is better to remove the first buds in June, then the plant will put all its strength into rooting. In the second wave of flowering, around August, the flowers will be stronger and more beautiful.
Own roses require special care in the first years of life. They reach full strength by the age of five, but on the other hand, they delight the eye much longer than the grafted varieties.
Pre-winter agricultural technology
With the advent of the first frosts, root-bearing roses often still stand in full color with a large number of unopened buds and young shoots. In general, a rose is a thermophilic plant that does not have its own natural mechanisms for preparing for the winter period.
That is why in the second half of summer, agricultural technology should be aimed at ensuring that the shoots begin to ripen and their main growth stops. To do this, in July, you need to stop cutting flowers, in August - to cancel all nitrogenous fertilizing. Additional plant nutrition should be done using potash-phosphorus fertilizers.
Preparing for the winter
Preparation of root roses for the winter period occurs in October-November. It is necessary to trim all growing tops, grassy shoots. Then at the base of the bush you need to cut young shoots, after which the plant is spud. Each rose bush spuds with earth, which is taken between the rows; the height of the ground layer should be approximately 15 cm.
After the frosts get stronger to -10 , plants additionally need to be insulated with spruce branches, as well as with a 20-cm layer of leaves. In the first winter, root-bearing roses are the most delicate and susceptible, so they need to be wrapped up very carefully.
Adult bushes tolerate wintering more easily; one hilling is enough for them. The most winter-hardy species are polyanthus, park, climbing.
The result of wintering largely depends not so much on low temperatures, but on soil moisture in autumn and spring. There are cases when a well-wintered bush expels from excess moisture. This happens due to the late removal of shelter from the plant or poor runoff of water at the place of growth.
Rose awakening
Growing root roses is a painstaking process. After wintering, it is recommended to remove the insulation from the bush gradually. The layer of leaves is removed as the snow melts. As soon as the soil thaws, roses need to be knocked out, leaving a spruce branch. The latter will shade the plant until buds appear.
On cold, heavy soils, rooted roses begin to vegetate a little later than the grafted ones. On warm and light soils, both species awaken at the same time.
For growing root roses, the most suitable are climbing, park, hybrid-polyanthus, polyanthus, some types of tea-hybrid and remontant varieties.
Especially good are root roses, which have the characteristics of their biology - high rooting ability, active development of the root system.
The plus of roses is that after overwintering, the plant often survives due to the fact that new life develops from the accessory buds located in the underground part of the bush.
The difference between a root and a grafted rose
Own, grafted roses - all of them, of course, are the decoration of any garden plot. What is the difference between these plant species?
Floriculture farms rarely grow their own seedlings, this process is more time-consuming, lengthy, especially for the hybrid tea group.
If you decide to buy a root-own rose, know that the young bush of the plant will look weaker than its grafted fellow. But despite this, its survival is quite high.
Own bushes grow more slowly and reach full strength by the age of five. In vaccinated growth is more active; the disadvantage is a short lifespan. Some root varieties can grow up to 15 years, pleasing the eye with abundant annual flowering.
Often, overgrowth from rose hips on grafted varieties causes a lot of trouble. There is no such problem in caring for root species; the shoot simply does not appear. Many gardeners try to transfer the grafted varieties to their own roots over time.