The Queen of Gardens and Parks, the rose, has long been deservedly loved by flower growers all over the world. Decorates this flower and Russian landscapes. Its wicker views are ideal for vertical gardening. Is it possible to grow beautiful and healthy roses in Siberia? Planting and care (photos and tips are presented in the article), correctly implemented, as well as recommendations for combating diseases will help you cope with this task.
Grade selection must be conscious.
Before you start breeding roses, you should get acquainted with the varieties. Do not rush to purchase. After all, you can buy seedlings through the Internet, and this greatly expands the range and makes it possible to make a good choice. Explore varieties, chat with rose growers on forums, read related blogs. With live communication with gardeners, you can learn a lot of valuable information. Beginners do not even always know what requirements plants must meet.
Often in photographs in catalogs of stores only a flower is visible. Its smell, bush form, moodiness in leaving or unpretentiousness - all this is very important. How long does flowering last, how friendly is it, do flowers burn out, what do they look like after flowering? Such information is not always available from the seller.
If the photo shows a single flower, but the whole bush is not shown, this may mean that the plant does not differ in abundant flowering or the bush is not able to boast of a decorative form.
Amateur gardeners who are just beginning to develop this plant always have a lot of questions at first, for example: "Is it possible to grow roses in Siberia in the open ground?" Certainly possible. And this is not at all as difficult as it might seem at first glance. The territory is huge, but severe frosts occur everywhere.
Difficulties in breeding roses in harsh climates
Beginners can be advised to pay attention to cold-resistant varieties. But growing roses in Siberia in a greenhouse is possible even in the northernmost regions.
In order for the initiative to succeed, and a noble plant endowed with lush flowering, you need to know and follow some rules. If you learn them, and they are not at all complicated, it will not disappoint, and, perhaps, it will even become your favorite hobby to plant roses in Siberia. The start and end dates of gardening work are related to the ambient temperature and the degree of warming of the earth. Since the climate is unstable in recent years, this adds new issues to the care of delicate flower.
For the most part, they all agree in determining the timing of planting, in caring for a safe wintering, in the right fertilizer, which provides long and plentiful flowering, and in the fight against diseases. As for varieties such as Rambler or Klaimer, and these are quite common, unpretentious and well-developed gardener climbing roses, planting and care of these species in Siberia is not difficult. However, their cultivation is accompanied by other - pleasant concerns, such as their design in the landscape.
Where to plant
They are photophilous. Planting roses in Siberia in the fall should be carried out taking into account this feature. By the way, it was noticed that if the shrubs provide proper care - watering, feeding, etc., then they feel great and bloom even in partial shade.
If you want to decorate the wall of the house with plants, then roses are not the best choice. Near the house there is a high risk of unwanted temperature changes. On the one hand - the cold air of the street, on the other - the warm wall of the house. Thawing of snow or drifts of snowdrifts, icing during thaws are likely. Such contrasts are detrimental to delicate plants. Even the good illumination of the south wall may not save the situation. Near the walls of the roses generally should not be planted. For them, a well-lit partial shade in the center or on the outskirts of the site will be more comfortable. If you really want to decorate the house, then plant bushes at least a meter away from the south wall.
Soil preparation
Dig a hole about 40x40x40 cm, put complex fertilizer at the bottom . Roses are very sensitive to soil quality. If it is clay, fluff it, adding sand, wood ash, humus, a little peat and leafy soil. If the soil is mostly sandy, then manure, humus and leafy soil. These components will make it quite nutritious and moderately weighted.
Planting roses in Siberia is not a tricky business, but if you have a plant grown not on a stock, but on your own, then you can not be afraid that in the spring, instead of a cultivar, you will have a well-wintered wild rose bush in the area. Try to choose your own root varieties, and in any case, deepen the root neck by at least 5 cm. It is also not recommended to deepen more strongly, since the rose will release new roots from the graft site, and on the roots of the scion it will grow much weaker.
Half or a third of the prepared soil mixture should be put on the bottom of the pit, under the roots. Then you should thoroughly moisten the substrate by pouring water into the pit. Powder the roots before planting with ash and carefully and evenly place in the pit. Pour the remaining soil to the roots from above, trying to tamp well, so that between them there are no large voids. Water abundantly again.
How to save seedlings?
Autumn is more suitable for planting and transplanting an adult rose. Planting and care in Siberia in the spring is the best time for plants obtained from cuttings, as well as for roses sent by mail and wintered in a cold room at home.
You can start gardening immediately after the snow melts, when the shovel easily enters the ground. This usually happens in April. Old bushes can be replanted in the spring, but it is less appropriate than in the fall - prolonged getting used to a new place can negatively affect the flowering, and you will think that the bush has degenerated or the place chosen is not suitable. But spring cuttings always work out perfectly. Prepare branches in the fall. Cut long shoots, bring home and disinfect in a weak solution of potassium permanganate. Store them in the basement in a sandbox. If there is no basement, then put it in the refrigerator, in the compartment for fresh vegetables. To prevent the shoots from drying out, wrap them in a damp cloth, and then in polyethylene. In the spring they will be fresh and green.
Propagation by cuttings
In April, when the snow melts, remove the thin upper parts of the shoots, cut branches into 10-15 cm cuttings with buds on each, soak for 24 hours in water with potassium permanganate and can plant. For guaranteed results, use root.
So that spring frosts do not destroy the plants, plant them in a sunny, sheltered from the wind place with loose fertile soil. Cover each stalk with a plastic bottle: cut the bottom, and use the top with the lid as a mini-greenhouse. Keep the ground moist. After a month, you can begin to ventilate the greenhouse bottles by removing the caps for a short while. This will gradually accustom the plants to the natural atmosphere. Do this very carefully. Root formation requires heat, constant temperature, high humidity and lack of movement. Accustomed to such conditions and once in the fresh air, a pampered plant can cope with complex adaptation and die.
It is believed that the appearance of the first leaves testifies to the established rooting. Do not rush to rejoice. You can completely remove the bottles only after a couple of months. In addition, all this year you will have to carefully take care of young plants - shade from the scorching sun, fertilize, prevent the soil from drying out or stagnate water, protect it from freezing.
Are there winter-hardy climbing roses? Landing and leaving in Siberia of many varieties of ramblers and klimings does not cause special difficulties, since they are characterized as unpretentious and winter-hardy. If you are a beginner, then choose a root variety grown in a local nursery.
Ramblers
I must say that the cultivation of roses in Siberia from cuttings is best done with ramblers. In the conditions of severe climate, such varieties as “dorothy perkins”, “bobby james” and “excelsa” have proven themselves best. Cuttings can be practiced throughout the summer. For cuttings, twigs from the third quarter of the lash are collected - the one that is closer to the end. Sticks the size of a pencil are cut. Rooting in a greenhouse occurs within a month.
Ramblers are very convenient plants for decorating small areas. Their whips grow up to five meters, they are very flexible and plastic. They are twisted around the support clockwise, trying to keep the branch lying horizontally. This technique stimulates the growth of new flower-bearing shoots of roses. Planting and care in Siberia varieties "rambler" is suitable for beginner gardeners. Its flowers are small, terry, collected in lush inflorescences, which very densely strew the entire bush. Flowering, although single, but very plentiful, lasts almost a month. In order for flowers to decorate your garden longer, with the beginning of flowering, stop feeding and monitor the moisture of the soil under the bush.
Variety with fragrant flowers
Many gardeners really appreciate musky roses. Planting and care of this variety in Siberia will be successful if you choose a place with loose neutral soil, well protected from cold winds and adequately lit. Traditional musky roses exude a strong ambergris scent. It does not come from petals, as is the case with other varieties, but from stamens, so even wilted flowers continue to smell fragrant. However, they do not always have such a bright aroma. Many hybrids are more decorative than older varieties, but are odorless. Musk roses produce flexible lashes up to 2.5 meters long. This allows you to use them to design arbors and arches. The best varieties are Mozart and Ballerina.
Miniature climbing rose
Another charming example of climbing roses is the pirouette variety. Since its branches do not grow more than one and a half meters, it is often planted as a scrub - a single bush. Small flowers of a slightly apricot hue are collected in a brush. It is revealed very amicably and so abundantly that foliage is not visible behind them. Flowering is long. The aroma is delicate, pleasant, sweet, although weak. "Pirouette" practically does not suffer from powdery mildew and black spotting, which often prevail over roses. Planting and caring for this variety in Siberia is also convenient because it is cold-resistant. A little shelter, however, is still necessary.
Klimmers
These can be said monumental climbing roses. Planting and caring for this variety in Siberia can be complicated by difficulties with shelter. Compared to ramblers, in which the lashes reach a length of five meters, Climbers are just babies. Their shoots do not outgrow the 2-meter mark. However, they are very thick and do not bend as easily as miniature ramblers. It is very difficult to wrap such an escape around a pillar or arch. If you let the branch go vertically up, then it will bloom only at the upper end. Flowers form very abundantly if the branch is horizontal. In the flower garden they have a fan on the fences, trellises. This stimulates the growth of new flower stalks. If you want roses to bloom as long as possible, then stop dressing with buds setting and water daily in dry weather. Climbers bloom luxuriously! Large fragrant flowers adorn the bush for almost a month, and in the repairing ones - twice a season. The best varieties are “elf”, “rosanna”, “pink cloud” and “pierre de ronsard”.
Shelter for the winter
How to save roses in Siberia in winter? Planting and care, watering and weeding, feeding and pest control - everything that you did in spring, summer and autumn may be in vain, and next year you will have to start all over again, including looking for a good reliable bush if your bush has broken frost.
Shelter roses after the first freeze, on a dry day. This is important because sheltering wet bushes will create an unfavorable microclimate and the development of fungal infections. Shoots are removed from the supports and neatly laid out on the ground. If you bend the thick branches of the Climber, use the pitchfork to dig up the ground. So it will be easier to roll the bush. No need to spread it on the ground very low. Let it rise a little. Your goal is to dress the plants in a fur coat. Non-woven materials such as lutrasil proved to be very good in harsh winters. Take the thickest and fold in several layers. The bushes should be covered with a continuous blanket, and not in separate fragments. Press along the perimeter with bricks.
Opening
How does growing roses in Siberia begin? Spring is the time when they buy new ones and open old bushes. Remove the shelter should be in several stages. First, aerate, then slightly open, increasing time, and, finally, completely removed. This is done in order to accustom the flowers to new conditions. Having removed the covering material, they look at the whips and cut off the damaged or dead to healthy tissue. At this time, it is very convenient to loosen the earth around the rose and choose the roots of the weed grass.
Fertilizers
Do roses require any special top dressing in Siberia? Planting and care in this region is somewhat more time-consuming than in Europe, but this is only associated with protection against freezing in winter. The rest is the same. In spring, plants require a large amount of nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus. Roses are very dependent on the microbiological composition of the soil and are sensitive to the lack of one or another element. As for acidity, then slightly acidic (pH 5.6) will be just right for them. From mid-July, nitrogen fertilizing, enhancing shoot growth, should be discontinued. Not that by winter there will be many young fragile processes on the bushes that cannot withstand the difficult winter - the affected tissues of young shoots will become a breeding ground for infections, which can provoke the death of the whole plant.
If it is possible to feed the rose with manure, then do it in the spring, and it will repay you with wonderful growth and flowering. Overripe manure and mullein are the best fertilizers for roses. Manure is a supplier of nitrogen, and the necessary potassium and phosphorus are in wood ash. In addition, for proper growth and development, plants need calcium, magnesium, iron, boron, manganese and copper. Therefore, do not neglect complex mineral fertilizers.
In September, it is recommended that you add superphosphate or potassium nitrate under the bushes for the last time.
Diseases and Pests
It's time to find out how roses are sick. Planting and caring for these delicate plants in Siberia is not very difficult, but the harsh climate weakens the immune properties of roses, and they can begin to hurt. The most common diseases of climbing roses are black spotting and powdery mildew.
Black spotting
This trouble is not as terrible as it seems, although it spoils the appearance of the bushes very much. It occurs most often in the second half of summer. The leaves are covered with black spots, then turn yellow and fall off. It starts from the bottom of the bush and gradually rises up. In severe cases, leads to the complete decay of the entire foliage. At the onset of the disease, it is enough to tear off the affected leaves and burn, and spray the bush with a weak solution of mullein (20 parts of water per one part of the mullein). Two or three procedures are enough. If you could not find the mullein, buy preparations containing penconazole, triazole or mancozeb at the store. It can be “Topaz”, “Profit”, “Skor” or “Ridomil Gold”.
Powdery mildew
The disease often affects roses growing in a greenhouse. For climbing roses, it arises as a result of blooming as a result of too much watering in cool weather. It affects the young parts. They are covered with white powdery coating. Spraying bushes with infusion of wood ash in this case is very effective. First you need to remove the affected leaves, buds and shoots, cutting them to a healthy tissue. All this must be burned so that the pathogenic microflora does not resume activity. Brushed bushes should be sprayed with ash solution, and after two hours rinse with clean water. In severe cases, drugs containing triazole are used - Skor and Topaz.