A pencil skirt is one of the main items of a basic women's wardrobe. It is perfectly combined with many things, which allows you to create all kinds of ensembles for all occasions. In addition, this style in the best way emphasizes the smooth lines of the female figure, giving the whole image an extraordinary sexual appeal.
Sewing a pencil skirt is a snap. Even not too experienced dressmaker will manage in a few hours. The main secret of success is the availability of a good, proven basic pattern of a straight skirt. Keep in mind that for all its apparent simplicity, this model requires a good cut. Otherwise, you will not get the expected effect.
Today I will try to tell in detail how to sew a pencil skirt for a standard figure. Let's start with the fabric. Since its style involves a strong fit, it is better to sew it from materials with the addition of elastane. With a panel width of 1.40-1.50 m, you will need one length of the product, plus a few centimeters per hem.
Before proceeding with the cutting, we need to slightly adjust the pattern. The pencil skirt, in contrast to the straight model, is slightly narrowed to the bottom. It is usually performed with a slot or a slit that provide freedom of movement.
In order to get a narrower silhouette, lay on the bottom of the product from the side seams 1-3 cm, and from the hips 7-9 cm. Connect these two points together with a smooth line. We cut off the excess.
Despite the fact that the instructions for sewing a pencil skirt with a slot look no more complicated than for similar products with a slit, do not rush to take on such a product. Believe me, the first option for a beginner dressmaker is quite complicated. Processing slots requires some skill. Therefore, in your first experiment, limit yourself to a cut.
Now we proceed to cutting using the obtained details of the pattern. Fold the fabric in half in length, inside out. We place on the fold a pattern of the front panel. We will find it whole. The back panel of the skirt has a seam in the middle, so we cut out two parts. We prick the pattern with pins so that it does not move out, and draw around with chalk.
Cut out all the details, not forgetting the seam allowances. We leave 1.5-2 cm on the sides, 3-4 cm on the bottom hem, 3 cm on the back (considering the cut), and 1.5-2 cm at the top (for attaching the belt).
We sweep and stitch the tucks on the skirt. Then we steam them properly, laying on the front panel towards the side seams, and back towards the center.
We overcast all seams on an overlock, capturing tucks. We sew the back fabric, leaving the sections for stitching the zipper and making the cut unstitched. We smooth the resulting seam with the steamer so that the allowances look in opposite directions.
Bast and stitch the zipper. We plan the incision, smooth it as it should, and sew it, retreating from the edge of 0.5 cm.
So that the pencil skirt, sewn with love with your own hands, does not disappoint you at the first exit, fix the top point of the cut as it should. You can duplicate the seaming seam several times or simply sew a small triangle of leather or suede.
Now we have two finished parts of the skirt that need to be sewn together on each side. We sew seams, smooth out allowances.
Do not be surprised that in the story of how to sew a pencil skirt, I often mention such an operation as steaming. Experienced dressmakers say that the more often you use an iron, the better then the finished product sits. So take the time to iron each seam. Steaming immediately reveals product defects that need to be fixed.
Our skirt is almost ready. All that remains is the top of the product and the hem on the bottom. If desired, you can sew a model with a traditional belt. I suggest that you do without it and treat the top of the skirt with a detachable trim. To do this, take a pattern, pin the tucks on it and draw a smooth line at a distance of 5 cm from the waistline. You will get a pattern of a hem, with which we will trim the top of the skirt. Cut 2 parts of the tape, leaving allowances for seams along the upper edge up to 2 cm, from the sides up to 1.5 cm. We process the tape with doubler to better keep its shape. We sew together and iron. After that, we turn the skirt inside out, sweep it with the front over the front. We turn off the inside and iron it well. Bast and stitch close to the top edge. At the back seam, we carefully attach the neckline of the belt.
We make a hinged eyelet from a thin strip, cut along an oblique. We sew it just above the zipper on the right side, on the left we place a suitable button. It remains to process the bottom of the product with a double hem and sew it by hand or by machine.
I note that this article provides a simple description of how to sew a pencil skirt. Even an inexperienced dressmaker will cope with this model, since all complex details are excluded from the technological process. You do not need complex skills, only attentiveness and accuracy.