Jewelers are skilled craftsmen who can see a beautiful gem in a muddy fragment of a mineral and give it a magnificent shape. The types of classical gem-cutting are used today by many stone makers and include three main types of cuts - cabochon, circle and facet - which, in turn, are divided into 250 varieties. The specific type of processing is selected by the jeweler depending on certain factors: the size and type of the mineral, its purity, hardness, optical properties and the skills of the master himself.
Below is a list of gem-cutting types used by craftsmen from all over the world.
Cabochon
The most ancient type of gem cutting, in which the mineral is given a convex shape without facets. Typically, this type of processing is used to cut opaque or translucent inserts, minerals with the effect of "cat's eye". A huge role is played by the quality of polishing and grinding of stone, since the main requirement for cabochons is a perfectly smooth surface.
A circle
Circle - a classic cut of precious stones. Types of stone processing in other ways appeared much later than her. Round cut was first invented in 1900. It was at this time that diamond saws were invented, which gave master jewelers the opportunity to work with diamonds and use them to process other diamonds, turning them into diamonds.
The round cut of stones and its types, which vary depending on the number of faces, help create unique and original jewelry. The cut facet of 57 facets is considered to be the optimal type - it gives brilliance to diamonds and shows all the beauty and play of light in their faces. Such cutting is most appreciated when buying stones. Small stones are processed in 33 faces or 17 faces.
Large stone weight loss is a characteristic feature of this type of cut. Mineral processing takes about 50% of the initial mass.
Oval
Types of gem cutting include one of the varieties of round processing - an oval. Jewelers use it mainly for round nuggets. The first oval cut appeared only in the 1960s.
Pear
Despite such an unusual name, stones treated in this way are more like a drop. Lateral facets are made in the form of wedges, the upper platform is smooth, which ensures the play of light. Thus, both medium and large stones are processed. A pear is divided into such types of cut gemstones as briolette and drop.
Marquis
This type of processing of precious stones was named after the Marquise de Pompadour, the favorite of King Louis XV. The coquettish smile of the world famous beauty was immortalized in an oval cut of jewelry with oblong, pointed tips. In shape, the stones processed in this way are more like a boat.
The stones cut under the “marquise” are very fragile: their elongated ends can be easily broken, therefore such jewelry is worn very carefully.
Baguette
The types of cut gemstones of the stepped type include rectangular processing - a baguette. In fact, it is an indicator of quality, since it shows both the cons and the pros of the stone. In inserts of this form with the naked eye, you can notice internal defects or cut errors. For this reason, when choosing such jewelry, it is advisable to pay attention to the quality of stone processing.
Princess
The “princess” is characterized by an unusual play of light in stone, but at the same time it is performed in a square or rectangular shape. First appeared in 1960-1970. The cost of such a stone is less, since during cutting it practically does not lose weight. Diamonds are processed in the shape of a “princess” to decorate engagement rings. When placing a stone in a frame, they try to close right angles, since they are the most fragile.
Octagon
Step gem cut types include octagonal processing. The most popular is the emerald cut, which protects the minerals from chips and damage, showing the purity and shade of the stone on the winning side.
Emerald
This type of cut is a rectangle with cut corners and large facets. They use it mainly for processing large stones of perfect purity, since it is impossible to hide the defects of a nugget behind a large number of faces. It doesn’t play with light like a round cut or a “princess” cut, but in brightness and power of refracted flashes it significantly exceeds them.
Trillion
The most spectacular cut of precious stones. The shape resembles a triangle with wedges. Depending on the design of the finished jewelry, the characteristics of the gem and the fantasy and the skill of the jeweler, the number of facets and the shape of the stone can change, this is an advantage of a trillion. This type of cut was first invented in Amsterdam, and today it is the most popular in the world.
Heart
Complex and expensive types of gem cutting include this type - the heart. Use it only in the manufacture of exclusive jewelry. The beauty of a stone heart depends on the skill of a jeweler, therefore, when choosing such products, they primarily look at the evenness of the contour.
Cushion
Often, this type of gem cutting is called antique, or antique. Jewelers resort to it in those cases when it is required to preserve the original appearance of the mineral. For example, almost all diamonds of the Baroque era were cut in this form.
Radiant
Externally, the stone, which was given such a cut, looks like a square or rectangle with cut corners. Radiant combines the features of such cuts as "emerald" and "princess". Jewelers use it for minerals, which should be shown in all its glory: the play of light, color, purity, transparency and size of the stone are demonstrated with this treatment. Such a cut has a more masculine and brutal character, so it is often chosen to create men's jewelry. Visually, such products shorten the phalanges of the fingers.
Usher
Square gemstone cuts include a variety such as Asher. It is in many ways similar to the Emerald, but has a greater number of facets. Such a faceting was invented in 1902 in Belgium by Asher stone masters; it became the most popular in the 1930s. Depending on the size of the stone, the number of faces changes. Artifacts are made with stones cut in this form.
Why are precious stones processed?
Cutting - mechanical processing of semiprecious and precious gems, carried out in order to give the stones the desired shape and structure, which provide a full manifestation of the material's features. During the processing process, regular geometric surfaces are formed on the surface of the stone, which are folded into the desired shape.
The cut creates a play of light, which demonstrates the optimal perception of brilliance and the color palette of gems. A large number of faces and their location guarantee an iridescent light effect. The formation and arrangement of facets and surfaces repeatedly refracts and reflects light rays focused by the stone. Color overflows give component shades of the spectrum into which the refracted rays are decomposed.
The cutting technology and the processing of precious and semiprecious stones with its help implies two main elements: the type of faces and the external shape of the stone. The types and forms of cutting precious stones are numerous today, however, the process of giving the gem the desired shape is very laborious and time consuming. The minimum number of facets is 30, and in complex forms it can reach 240. In addition, each of them should be made at an ideally correct angle and with a flat surface.
Excluding the play of light in stone, the cut must meet several criteria. It:
- Grinding the material.
- Minimum Lost Mass.
- The manifestation of form and color.
- Correspondence of the stone to the whole decoration in color, shape, style.
Depending on the type of stone, its size and the purpose of the finished jewelry, the jeweler selects a certain cut shape. For some types of stones - for example, emeralds and diamonds - there are different forms of cutting, for others any types are used.
Gem cutting can add a noble and attractive appearance to any jewelry. Types and methods of processing gems have been invented and improved for centuries, and each of them has its own characteristic features. Without cut any, even the most expensive and rare stone will appear trinket. Only in the hands of a true master jeweler does a gem receive a second life and delight people with its beauty, grace and originality.