Anchor and armored weaving chains of gold and silver

In ancient times, all chains were made by hand. First, the precious metals were stretched into a thin wire. Then it was folded into separate rings (links), assembled together, soldered and polished. Currently, chains are made mainly on machine tools, and by hand already much less often. The machine makes it possible to create completely new elegant configurations.

There are only three main technologies for weaving chains. Anchor, shell armor and Bismarck compound. All existing bracelets and chains are separated by their weight. A product with a weight of up to three grams is called thin, and up to 10 grams - medium. If the weight of the chain exceeds 10 grams, such weaving is called large.

Today, each of them has more than fifty varieties of jewelry compounds, based on the principles of building standard weaving. Any of them has a personal name and can be made both in silver and in gold. Unfortunately, in one article it is completely impossible to examine each in detail, so we will get acquainted with the most popular weaves.

shell-weaving

General criteria for creating conversations

Regardless of weaving, all chains are divided into hollow and solid. Varieties of products include three categories: men's, women's, children's. In addition, each has its own specific patterns. Hollow products combine lightness, volume. The material from which the jewelry is made is hollow inside, therefore, with the outer thickness of the rings, the hollow chains are airy and light. In most cases, they are created using complex types of weaving. And they look quite solid! The main advantage of such chains is their moderate price, determined by the mass of the jewelry itself.

One-piece chains are significantly heavier, which also affects cost. However, they are extremely comfortable in daily wear. Due to the fact that jewelry is highly resistant to deformation and external influences, they are more durable. If, however, the links break, the specialist will be able to solder and return the product to its original state without much difficulty.

Due to its resemblance to rope, jewelry created on the basis of twisted weaving technology got its name by analogy - rope, or twisted weaving. This shell-like weaving is a fastened curved ring twisted into a spiral. It occurs simultaneously in two main weaving - anchor, shell. Such weaving is classified as a romantic style of jewelry, characterized by special sophistication, lightness.

anchor weaving

Varieties of anchor weaving

Anchor connection consists in sequential fastening of all parts of the product, which are perpendicular to one another. The links consist not only of one, but also of two rings. The cost of such a product is relatively low. Due to the fact that all chains are created using stamping, this is the most elementary, unpretentious weaving. In the classic version, each ring has an oval shape. When the fixing plate is located inside the links, this weaving is called the "sea anchor".

If the anchor weaving has round links, it is called "beltser", or "roll". Chopard fashion house played a leading role in advertising this particular type of connection, so the anchor roll may have a second name - "shopard". Such universal weaving is quite practical, strong. In addition, the finished product can look equally irresistible to both a woman and a man.

Chains weighing more than 10 grams are a fairly independent piece of jewelry. Such a product is always remembered and speaks of a catchy image of its owner. Medium and thin chains look great together with pendants, crosses, amulets. In addition, bracelets and chains are great for many clothing styles.

Venetian weaving

Venetian weaving has a significant difference with the classic anchor look. The links of such a product have thin, wide rings. Their shape is in the form of a square or rectangle. The Venetian chain itself can be either double or triple weave. Everything is determined by the number of links woven into a single block. A delightful, durable connection is subject exclusively to a qualified craftsman. It is noteworthy that a special machine was created for its implementation.

Rope cord connection

There is another anchor weaving with the characteristic name "cord". The links of the bracelet enter one another into several elements at the same time, jumping over 2-3 rings. Thanks to this connection, the product acquires a soft twisted configuration. Bracelets with chains look especially elegant and sublime due to the dense and complex fastening of the links. The chain will look especially airy with small pendants, medallions, crosses.

double armored weaving

Varieties of armored weaving

The armor-clad connection is characterized by polished on both sides, as well as links located in the same plane. When armored weaving is used, a bracelet or chain looks very impressive: it gives them a characteristic luster and originality. The manufacturing technology of jewelry is similar to chain-link weaving, therefore it is particularly reliable. And the convenience of this product is that it never twists.

Experts believe that this technology is one of the most reliable. The carapace weaving of a chain can be either single or double, or even triple. Chains in the classic version equally fascinates both women and men. Solid jewelry looks good on top of clothes. Particularly attractive chains will look on a sweater or jumper with a high neck. In open areas of the body, thin and medium products will incredibly look. Small pendants and pendants are perfect for such chains . Especially as an evening decoration.

chain shell weaving

Italian Rhombo

Some weaves have a characteristic rhombic configuration of links fastened one to the other. Particularly practical and reliable decoration is a bracelet or chain that has double armored weaving. This type of linking is called a "double rhombus", and in the Italian presentation - "rhombo". This form has received its widest distribution not only among men. Jewelry made in rhomboid weaving is suitable for virtually everyone, regardless of age and gender. Such jewelry looks extremely impressive not only in conjunction with evening dresses, but also with strict classic costumes.

Maglia della nonna

No less interesting is this kind of armor compound, such as "nonna." This name is derived from Maglia della Nonna, which in translation from Italian sounds like "grandmother's weaving." Inside the large rounded links are tiny rings, forming a voluminous intricate pattern. Such a compound is called a “combination shell”. Due to the peculiar features, this shell-like weaving is recognized as quite durable. A chain with such a connection will highlight the irresistibility and grace of its owner. Due to the inherent flexibility of jewelry, it is able to play unusually in the light. Bracelets and chains are perfect for evening dressing. Particularly expressive and harmonious products will look with openwork clothing. In addition, jewelry perfectly worn both on top of clothes, and underneath.

armored gold weaving

Figaro

Among the following species, one can distinguish the shell-like weaving of a chain, a figaro bracelet . The products are notable for some inconstancy, like the hero of the comedy Beaumarchais. A similar implementation of the compounds belongs to the category of combined shell-weaving. And thanks to the Cartier fashion house, the chains got a second name - Cartier. The principle of creation is quite simple. Links of one configuration are interspersed with rings of another in the assigned order. The product looks quite unusual and concise, representing a harmonious combination of diverse links.

Jewelry Lace Snake

Weaving with a rounded cross section is called the "snake" (Snake), or simply "lace". Jewelry is created by compressing links not only in armored weaving, but also in other classic types. For example, there are products not only with an oval, but also with a flat section. This is a light hollow chain, creating the impression of a real snake with its light graceful zigzag. Among women, jewelry made using this technique is incredibly popular. Especially if this jewelry grace has a golden shell-like weave. Moreover, they are extremely reliable and graceful. In addition, this configuration looks great both individually and in a headset ensemble.

Solid hearts

Among the jewelry, another weaving stands out. Its name - "lava" - the product received due to its characteristic shape. Its links fastened in openwork weaving resemble hearts in their configuration. This airy decoration is perfect exclusively for women. Chains perfectly fit together with elegant pendants, crosses.

Singapore Rope Weaving

Singapore twisted weaving is equally great for items such as chains and bracelets. If you put a gold chain on your hand, then Singapore weaving will playfully gleam in the sun with every movement. Such a unique combination of rings will always look new and charming. The product is ideal for any type of clothing. In other words, to evening dresses and daily clothes.

gold chain on hand

Solidity weaving "Bismarck"

In Russia, mainly in the 90s, the presence of jewelry made using the Bismarck technology expressed the high status of its owner. According to one version, weaving got its name in honor of the German Chancellor Otto von Bismarck. This linking is also known as a cardinal or kaiser.

Due to the fact that weaving is one of the most complex, a solid and massive pattern is usually created manually, which significantly affects the cost of jewelry. Jewelry is made using rings consisting of several links deployed in opposite directions. You can find double, triple, and even quadruple weaving. Thanks to this, it is listed as one of the most reliable.

"Bismarck" has many varieties, the most difficult - the Byzantine weaving. Due to the presence of individual thickness and size among all, it is possible to distinguish the python link compound. It has other names. For example, "American", "Italian" or "whim." The extraordinary and complex weaving sparkles incredibly well in the sun, so it is extremely popular with the beautiful half of humanity.

shell-weaving bracelet

In which weaving to choose a decoration?

Undoubtedly, the question of choice is absolutely individual for everyone. However, some varieties of chains are traditionally considered to be male, female or universal jewelry. Thus, men mainly prefer the solid bulky weaving "Bismarck". The female gender traditionally prefers elegant models of chains. For example, a gold chain on the hand, made in the technique of "Singapore", "nonna" or "lava", as well as many other modifications, are considered iconic women. If we talk about universal products, then the most common option is anchor. Chains with tight weave are most suitable for children. For example, a "snake" or jewelry cords made of leather, rubber.

Another important selection criterion is the length of the product. A woman is recommended to wear chains up to 50 centimeters, a man - longer. To make it easier for you to navigate, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with some sizes that can be determined by eye. So, the chain located at the very neck is 40 centimeters. If the lower edge of the jewelry reaches the upper level of the neckline - 50 centimeters. At the middle level of the neckline - 60 cm, at the bottom - 70 cm.

However, as with any rule, individual exceptions may occur. When buying jewelry, you definitely need to try on jewelry. And if you are not sure of the compatibility of the two products, leave one of them. The delightful Coco Chanel had once spoken about this. When choosing jewelry, get rid of the last thing you put on.

Source: https://habr.com/ru/post/E9293/


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