In the suburbs you can and should grow pears. The main thing is to know which varieties are best suited for this, on which places and soils this crop prefers to grow. Planting pears in the fall in the suburbs has several nuances. They are important to consider when conducting this type of work.
Varieties
Planting pears in the fall in the suburbs begins with a selection of varieties. They must be adapted to the natural conditions of the middle strip. It is important to decide when you want to get the harvest, as there are summer, autumn and winter varieties. Of course, the latter are named just because the fruits ripen in the winter, they appear much earlier - in the early to mid-autumn, but reach their technical ripeness later, due to which they are well stored until mid-winter.
Harvest from the trees of summer varieties you will get by the end of July - August. They remove it in the middle - the end of August, giving the fruits a good ripen. In September, the fruits of autumn are harvested, and in late September, early October - winter varieties.
If you want to feast on sweet fruits, plant a dessert, fret, or a little inch. These are summer types of pears. "Nursery" will delight in fragrant juicy not very large fruits in July. "Lada" - in mid-August. This species is characterized by increased winter hardiness, the fruits also have excellent taste, the tree begins to bear fruit already at the age of 4. Scab resistance is another excellent quality of this variety.
"Thumbelina" is recommended to grow in the south of Moscow region. The crop ripens by mid-autumn and is stored until November. The fruits of "memory of P. N. Yakovlev" also lie until November, and "memory of Zhegalov" - until February.
Seat selection
Young trees can be planted in spring and autumn. In the first case, you need to have time to do this before the onset of hot days and the full blooming of leaves in late April - early May. In the second period, gardeners have more time - from early September to late October. Planting pears in autumn in the suburbs is preferable, the trees will have quite a lot of time in order to take root and winter.
It is important to place seedlings where they will grow well and bear fruit. These trees do not like lowlands and places with high groundwater levels. Therefore, it is better to plant them on a small hill. But on high hillocks, blown by the winds, they can not be placed. It is better to place where, from the northern winds of the pear, the fence, the wall of the building will close the pear.
Landing Technology
Planting pears in autumn in the suburbs begins with digging a hole with a diameter of 80-1000, and a depth of 70 cm. If the site has a high level of groundwater, make the hole shallow, 40 cm is enough. In this place, you will plant a seedling on an artificially created hill. Put the sod aside, it will come in handy.
Fill the planting pit with mineral and organic fertilizers. Pour 2-3 buckets of humus or ripened compost into it, along a bucket of sand and peat, put the sod. If the soil is sandy or peaty, it is necessary to put some clay on the bottom of the pit so that it retains water. Add 4 tbsp. nitrofosks, mix with organics. Speaking about how to plant a pear correctly in the fall, it should be noted that the earth in the recess should be shaped like a knoll, a seedling should be placed on it, spreading its roots. Put a peg next to it, tie a young tree to it.
Fill the pit with fertile soil, stamp it with your foot, giving this place the shape of a small peaked mountain. Planting pears in the fall in the suburbs includes abundant watering. For one seedling you will need 3 buckets. Pour one first, let the water soak, then the next.
If you plant a pear with a closed root system, first moisten the earthen lump, lower it into the pit very carefully so that the soil does not crumble from the roots.
Autumn pear care
The new inhabitant of the garden must be properly prepared for the winter. Whitewash its trunk and part of the branches adjacent to it. This will help the tree survive thaws and spring temperature drops. This is done every year, otherwise the tree bark will crack when in March at night there will be minus, and during the day - plus temperatures.
In order to better winter the pear, in October it is necessary to moisten the root zone well by pouring it under the young 3, and under the old 5-6 buckets of water. The best winter hardiness contributes to the introduction of potash and phosphorus fertilizers. They are given 2-3 years after planting. Dissolve 2 tbsp. Of boiling water in 3 liters. l double superphosphate and a glass of ash. Add 5 liters of water to the solution, pour onto a moistened trunk circle. Make one such dressing in mid-August, the other - in mid-September.
How to save a young tree from frost and rodents
A simple method will help protect the seedling from freezing. Tie a few branches of spruce branches to the trunk, placing them close to each other. This method will be another point in resolving the issue of how to plant a pear correctly in the fall. In winter, not only frost is dangerous for seedlings, but also rodents, who like to feast on the bark of young trees. These may be mice living in your or neighboring area. If the garden is close to the forest, in the cold season, hares can also run in, who also will not deny themselves the pleasure of gnawing the bark. If it is not possible to tie the trunk with lapnik, use old nylon stockings or tights.
How to shape a tree
After the crop is harvested, the next important thing is pear pruning in the fall. The scheme will simplify the task, but even without it it is easy to understand the principles of this operation. Of course, it is better to remove excess in the spring, before sap flow, the end of March - the beginning of April is suitable for this. But in the fall, you can shorten the branches, the main thing is that they are small. Then the tree is the least painful surviving haircut. And remember that the pear pruning should be gentle in the fall.
The diagram will show that in the first year it is necessary to shorten the trunk by cutting off its fourth part. This will help form a branched crown. Cut the side shoots quite a bit, you need to remove their ends with a sharp secateurs to the first strong kidney.
Next year, shorten the trunk by 25 cm, and side shoots - by 5-7. Form the crown so that the lower branches are larger than the upper ones and are at an obtuse angle. In subsequent years, you will remove new branches that are competitors to the old, cutting the first closer to the trunk, but this operation must be carried out in the spring.
Here's how to plant a pear in the fall and form a strong tree that will bear fruit abundantly almost every year.