Details of clothing are connected together with seams. A needle is used for this. With its help, stitches are made on a fabric or other material, their finished combination forms a seam.
Before the invention of sewing machines, all work was done manually. At home and in handicraft production, such a practice exists now. The manual seam is indispensable at the initial stage of creating clothing models. Various sewing techniques are used to decorate the fabric.
Sewing principles
A suture joint is formed by weaving one or more threads in a certain sequence. It is advisable to fix individual elements of the patterns at the initial stage temporarily. Such a connection is usually done manually. After fitting and final finishing, the seam is manually replaced with machine stitching.
Depending on the final goal, the details of the clothes can be connected in various ways. At the same time, the seams will differ significantly in the density of stitches, fortress, etc.
In some cases, not the quality of the joint, but the decorative properties of laying the threads on the front surface comes first. Such seams are called decorative and they serve to finish the finished product.
The finished movement of the needle with the thread forms a stitch on the material. The sequence of such actions is called a line. The connection of the material, made in one or more lines, forms a seam.
Regardless of the technique, the stitches on the front and wrong side should be laid evenly, at the same distance from each other, and have a uniform thread tension.
Types of manual connections
For temporary connection of parts and marks during fitting, an estimate, cushioning and transfer seam is used. The so-called snares are used to transfer contour lines from one symmetrical part of the product to another.
The edges of the material are treated with a round seam. It is convenient to use for the preparation of frills, shuttlecocks and other details. Manual seam stitch, reminiscent of a machine, called stitch. It is used for permanent fastening of clothing parts.
The marking seam is performed, like the seam, but not with such a density. The distance between adjacent stitches is equal to half their length. To prevent "shedding" of the edges of the fabric, they are treated with a stitching seam. It can be oblique, crosswise or looped according to the technique of execution.
A hem seam is used to treat tucked edges. According to the technique of execution, it can be simple (open), secret or curly.
Strike compounds
Prior to the invention of sewing machines, a hand seam was used to fasten clothing parts. The difference between the estimated connection from the strike connection is that the needle does not move forward constantly, but with each new injection it comes back.
In this case, the stitches are not formed alternately, then on the front, then on the wrong surface, but cross. This achieves increased strength and elasticity of the connection.
On the front side, the stitches are short, at the same distance from each other. At the same time, they are three times longer on the inside, they go one after another, have no gaps and form a solid line.
The so-called machine manual seam, or “stitch”, is particularly durable. With high-quality performance, there is doubt that it is made by hand. The stitches on the front part of the same size without gaps, on the inside they go behind each other and twice as long.
Sewing technique
These seams are also called "back needle." And this is justified, because with each exit to the front, it returns one step back. The distance may be equal to half the wrong side of the stitch or one third of it. Depending on the purpose of the connection, the gap may be from 1 to 7 mm.
Suture from right to left. The needle is inserted from top to bottom, held under the fabric and displayed on the front with the formation of the wrong side stitch length. Then she goes back a step. The injection is made again in the first hole, after which the cycle is repeated both from the inside and from the front. In this case, a manual stitch “stitch” is formed.
If after withdrawing the thread to the front part, a second injection is done not in the first hole, but in the middle between the inlet and outlet of the needle, then such a manual stitch seam is called “for the needle”. It does not form a solid line of stitches on the front, not as strong as the “stitch”, but it is faster.
Finishing seams
In some cases, when mounting parts of clothing or fixing its individual parts on the surface, a pattern pleasing to the eye is formed. Such a connection is called finishing.
For sewing knitwear and stitching thick non-flowing fabrics, the goat’s handmade decorative seam is used, which forms a simple cruciform pattern.
The nun compound is used to trim the edges of pockets, cuts and folds. Such fasteners are made in the form of an equilateral triangle. Buttonhole stitches in the form of branches and chains are characteristic of the chain stitch and herringbone connection. They are used to hem the edges of the material.
These types of finishes can also be used to fasten clothing parts, and used separately, only to give the finished product decorative distinctive features.
Embroidery
Mass factory production of clothes pushed manual sewing into the background. Only true connoisseurs of original clothing or artistic embroidery take this craft seriously. Sometimes the imagination of such tailors is striking when there are simply unique things with lapels, slots, loops and pockets trimmed with decorative sewing.
The nun's sister and the hand seam in the dressing of the clergy are mandatory practice. Special care and accuracy is required in the preparation of the bishop's vestments. Hand-made embroidered icons are a unique technique, requiring at the same time perseverance, and special skills, and purity of thoughts.
Gold and silk sewing, as well as carpet and volumetric techniques occupy a special place. Amazingly beautiful work, trimmed with sequins, mirrors, beads and gold. Cross stitching has been known since antiquity; it was also decorated with needlework, decor items, and clothes.
Handmade decorative stitch stitch is a series of flat stitches on fabric. In the process, they completely fill the contour of the applied decorative pattern. Various stitches are used in this technique: “Vladimir”, “stalked”, “knot”, “narrow stitch bead”, “fasten loop” and others. There are several types of surface: artistic color, white, satin, Chinese, Japanese, Russian Alexander and Mstersky.
Manual furrier seam
It is used to connect parts of fur skins and for minor repairs. For sewing, use needles and threads in accordance with the thickness of the skin layer of the skin. The thicker and longer the fur, the larger the diameter of the thread and the size of the needle. To connect thin-skinned skins, the frequency of stitches should be increased.
The seam is from right to left. A knot is not made at the end of the thread; it is fastened with several stitches in one place. Before starting work, the pile must be laid in such a way that it does not interfere with sewing. To do this, the skins are folded inside the fur. Separate hairs are threaded with a needle on the front side.
A manual furrier seam is made by moving the needle away from you. Two skins are pierced at once, the thread is pulled, thrown over the edge and again inserted into the same hole. After tight thread tension, the loop tightens. The needle is thrown again over the edge, and the process is repeated with the second hole.
Secrets of Mastery
A manual seam begins by pulling a needle into the eye of a thread. So that she is obedient in her work, does not get confused and does not twist, she should be cut off the coil after she was threaded.
Biting the thread spoils the teeth and does not look professional at all. It is better to make a neat cut with sharp scissors not across it, but at an angle, then it will be easier to get into the eye.
It is better not to knit the knot at the end of the thread, but to fasten it with several reverse stitches. An experienced craftswoman knows that any seal on the fabric during ironing can be printed on the surface or will be visible.
Sewing a long thread (more than 70 cm) is inconvenient. In olden times, the craftswomen practicing this method were referred to as lazy girls who did not want to make too much movement.