Pruning apple trees in spring is a very important event that affects the development and proper growth of a tree. Therefore, before starting the procedure, you should find out how to do it correctly so as not to damage the branches and get a rich harvest.
As soon as spring comes, all the vegetation begins to prepare for the stage of revitalization and active growth. It was during this period that all plants easily tolerate pruning, grafting, and transplanting procedures. The formation of crowns in the spring is done not only to improve the appearance, but also for more efficient fruiting of young and old trees.
Why spend pruning apple trees in spring?
After some time, the trees become denser, the branches grow and begin to transmit much less sunlight, which is so important for the ripening of fruits. Because of this, yield decreases, and apples lose their taste. In addition, increased branching will serve as a good environment for the spread of pests that will damage the tree and its fruits. And also a thick crown will let light through less, due to which the foliage will begin to spit, which can cause the formation of a bark fungus and, accordingly, rotting of the trunk. Even the strongest apple tree due to strong branching can get sick and die.
Another reason why you need pruning apple trees in spring is falling apples. When the branches are very dense, part of the fruit will not fall to the ground, but will remain on the trees, some of them will begin to rot and become a good refuge for various parasites and diseases. Next year, pests will hit neighboring trees. For these reasons, gardeners recommend annual pruning of apple trees and other fruit trees in spring. With the correct formation of the crown, there will be good growth, long fruiting and high productivity. If you do not care about trees at all, this can lead to rather negative consequences. You can not only lose the entire crop, but also miss the appearance of many pests that will harm the apple tree and other crops growing in the garden.
Pruning young apple trees in spring. Features of the process. Description
Pruning apple trees in the spring for beginners is an interesting and uncomplicated process. The first time the procedure is carried out immediately after planting. This contributes to a uniform feed with minerals from the soil: part saturates the roots, and part - the crown of the tree.
Pruning apple trees in spring for beginners is as follows. If there are shoots on the sides, they should be cut into 2/3 of the length, and the main branches to a length of 90 cm.
A year later, in the spring, the apple tree must again be pruned. The tree leaves up to 5 of the strongest branches growing from the trunk. The lower branches should be longer than the upper ones, so they are pruned a little more. The central shoot is shortened so that it is 25 cm higher than all branches. If two tops grow in an apple tree, then one is cut off entirely.
Branches growing close to the trunk are completely useless, they need to be cut, as they poorly hold the fruit and break.
Among other things, dry and unhealthy branches, as well as young, sprouting near the trunk, must be removed from apple trees of all ages.
How to prune a fruiting apple tree
How to prune an apple tree in the spring of fruiting apple trees? For 3-5 years of life, a crown is formed, which must not be forgotten to form using clipping. To keep the tree still fruitful, the branches are removed to a minimum, and the central trunk is not bifurcated either.
We offer several recommendations for pruning apple trees in spring for beginners. It is imperative to timely remove branches that rush into the crown or intersect with fruit-bearing branches. A better option would be to cut 1-2 thick branches than a few smaller ones.
For quick recovery after the cutting procedure, the places of the slices are disinfected and coated with garden varnish, so that the wounds will not ooze.
How to prune an old apple tree
Pruning an old apple tree in spring is not as frequent as a young one. The crown needs to be formed every 2 years, and also make sure that the branches do not grow much, and thus do not block the sunlight.
Pruning apple trees in spring for beginners is as follows.
If the tree is already quite old and becomes less fruitful with each season, it can be rejuvenated. To do this, cut no more than 1/3 of the branches of the entire apple tree. In the current season, the yield will be low, you need to continue pruning every 2-3 years. After that, the tree will actively bloom and bear fruit.
How to prune a columnar apple tree in spring
Colon-shaped apple trees are currently becoming increasingly popular. In spring, such a tree is also subjected to pruning. Pruning a spring apple tree for beginners is a snap. Foliage is formed so that there are no branches on the sides. In appearance, such an apple tree resembles a column. In this case, the central trunk is not completely trimmed so as not to damage the kidney at the top. It is shortened only when the tree overgrows to grow, and thus growth is stimulated.
The first few years, the apple tree needs support, the central trunk is tied to it so that it does not break. In early spring, even before the appearance of fresh leaves and active sap flow, branches from the sides must be cut into 2 buds. From them will appear strong annual branches. Next year, a branch that grows horizontally will bear fruit. It is not cut, and vertical cut on 2 kidneys. Of these, new shoots will appear. And for the next season, the fruiting branch is cut off completely.
All these actions will allow you to have a large harvest of apples and enjoy the beauty of the orchard.
Which branches should be trimmed and which should be left for fruiting?
Pruning apple trees in the spring for beginners is a painstaking job. Dried, broken and frozen branches must be removed. Frozen from healthy ones differ in that young kidneys do not appear on them. Poorly located branches are also removed: the crowns growing inside, tightly pressed to the trunk, and young ones getting confused.
What time should apple trees be pruned?
When to prune an apple tree in spring? It is advisable as early as possible, before the start of active growth and sap flow.
When pruning branches at the beginning of March, it is more likely that the restoration process will not drag on for a long time and the tree will not suffer. In this, you should focus on the lunar calendar, choose more favorable days for the procedure.
There are several types of crown formation: sparse-tier, spindle-shaped, cupped and vertical palmette.
Sparse-tier crown
This is a simple and often used method of forming a crown, it looks like a natural one, the branches grow in levels.
Apple trees with a sparse-tier type of crown differ in durability and high productivity.
Foliage is formed from 5 main branches of the first level. In the lower part, the level of the two nearest branches is drawn. Others are more rare. The gap between the lower level and the third branch is at least 60 cm, the rest - after 30-40 cm.
The upper branch (5th or 6th) is formed at a height of 1.8-2.1 m. On the main branches they form semi-basic branches, the length of which reaches 2 m. They are located individually or in a group of up to 2-3 pieces, on the lateral and outer sides of the main branches. A gap of up to 60 cm is chosen between the groups of semi-basic branches. The main branches are placed at an angle of 40-45 ° to the row line, which gives a more convenient shape, reduces the row spacing and increases the density of plants. This type of crown allows the tree to grow up to approximately 2.5-3 m.
Fusiform crown formation
This is one of the simplest foliage options where branches are cut to a minimum. The main thing is to correctly trim the trunk, and the shoots growing on the main branches can be cut with pruners. It takes 3 years to obtain a spindle-shaped crown, but the first fruits may appear a year after the formation of shoots on the main branches. In the garden, trees with this type of crown can be grown at intervals of 2 m.
The fusiform form of the crown of the apple tree is a trunk on which semi-skeletal branches grow in different directions. They begin to form it from annual seedlings without shoots, shortening the length by 1/3 of the part. From the shoots formed on the trunk, the first level is formed in the middle of the young tree, while tilting the shoots on the main branches.
In the second year, the trunk is cut again and the next level is formed. After 3 years, the spindle-shaped method is completed by shortening the trunk, the tree eventually grows to 2-2.5 m.
Cup crown
This type of crown is suitable for fragile and short-lived apple trees. It takes almost the same form as a sparse-tier crown, but there are small differences. Three branches of the first level are directed in opposite directions with an angle of approximately 120 °. Each branch is cut 40 cm from the trunk in order to get a couple of branches. The central trunk is cut above the uppermost main branch.
In the future, it is necessary to ensure that the core of the foliage does not overgrow; for this, all shoots growing from the main branches and rushing into the crown are cut off. Small branches can not be removed, then fruits are formed on them.
Vertical palmette
This type of crown formation is easy to grow apple trees along the fence, walls or along the edges of the garden. It will take approximately 4 years to obtain the required shape, then the tree will begin to produce crops.
To get the crown shape of the “vertical palmette”, you need to arrange the main branches in such a way that they form one plane. To do this, at all levels of the central shoot, 2 branches are left, which grow in opposite directions. The levels are located at a distance of 80 cm. The branches appearing on the main shoots and on the trunk of the tree are pressed a little - the fruits will ripen there. The main branches must be pulled if they have a strong slope, or pulled away with a slight deviation. The apple tree can be spread in width up to 2 m, the height depends on the number of levels and can be adjusted by cropping.
Types of fruiting branches
Fruit-bearing branches are of several types:
- Short (ring and spear) - shoots are annuals, their length is from 2-3 mm to 5-6 cm.
- Weak (fruit twigs) - annual shoots, their length is up to 25 cm, flower buds are formed on the tips.
- Growth - thicker and longer branches. The buds on the top and sides of the growth branches are mostly leafy, less often floral.
- Bunchy - annual shoots, the length of which is 0.5-6 cm. The buds on such branches are collected like a bouquet or vice versa - grow with an interval. The side buds are floral, and at the apex the bud is usually growth.
- Floral - annual shoots on which flower buds are formed. Leaf buds grow only at the end or at the bottom of the shoot.
- Mixed - the buds on the upper and lower parts are leafy, and the rest grow in a mixed order.
- Premature - shoots growing from the buds of strong branches.
- Spinning tops are shoots growing upward up to 2 m long. Appear from sleeping buds along the main branches and branches growing on them.
Summing up, we can say that the correct pruning of apple trees in the spring will allow to direct the growth of foliage in the right direction. Proper decoration of the crown will give the garden a picturesque look, and also allow you to get a high yield.