Every woman, regardless of age and ability, wants to look stylish and attractive. The main "weapon" to achieve this goal is the wardrobe, or rather, its originality. And you can create it yourself. Using the following step-by-step instructions for creating a pattern, I want to dispel the fears of doubting women and instill confidence that they will succeed. Take for example a cut skirt, which is the main and integral element of the wardrobe of a real woman.
Where to begin?
First you need to decide on the style: the item of clothing can be a classic straight, cheerful sun-flared or look like an elegant pencil skirt. Next, you need to complete the skirt. Let's consider several options.
Building a pattern of the basic basis of a straight skirt
This stage is necessary for sewing almost any model, with the exception of these: sun-flared, half -sun, elastic skirt.
Experienced dressmakers never draw a separate pattern for each model. The basic basis is always a sketch of the design of a straight skirt. One pattern is enough, just tailored to fit your figure. This drawing will serve you constantly, and the necessary adjustments can be made directly on the fabric.
Measurement and material consumption
To outline the desired cut of the skirt, you will need to measure the waist and hips (measurements are taken in half size) and the length of the product. The resulting numbers (with an increase of one centimeter per freestyle) are written on paper. The exact length of the product is the distance from the waist to the floor minus 40 cm. If a cut in a pencil skirt with a high waist is provided , then the fabric consumption is calculated as follows: 10-15 cm are added to the length.
Preparatory stage
The cut of the skirt begins with a drawing of the rectangle, where the values of one side are the circumference of the hips, and the second is the length of the product.
Since the pattern will be created for two halves of the skirt (front and back), the measure of OB (hip circumference) is divided into two. Next, measure 20-23 cm from the waistline and draw a continuous horizontal line. This will be the hips line. We will continue to build patterns of the wardrobe element in question.
Drawing
Let us mark the point “T” at the top of the line that divides the skirt into two halves. The resulting intervals from the specified label must be divided in half and marked with dots. From them we lower down the verticals of 12 and 15 cm in front and also behind.
For the drawing of the oblique waist line of the two parts of the skirt, we measure one centimeter from the top left and 1.5 cm to the right - for both parts of the product. Combine these marks with the point T with slightly convex lines relative to the top of the cut.
We draw a tuck scheme with a depth of 3 and 2 cm.
To calculate the position of the point T1 and point T2, you need to apply the formula:
(Sat + 1) - (St-1) - 5/2.
The result should be measured from the side seam and designate points T1 and T2 (photo 1).
So, the cut of the skirt is not so complicated. It remains only, using a special pattern, to lower the lines down from points T1 and T2. For safety in this place, you can allow a couple of centimeters, and already directly in the fitting, adjust the line according to the figure.
Features cut skirts sun
Such a model is suitable for young ladies with a thin waist and owners of large hips because of their ability to hide their fullness.
The cut of a sun-flared skirt, like any other, begins with taking measurements, namely: OT (waist volume) and CI (product length).
The operation is carried out without a pattern directly on the fabric with the following calculation:
Radius = 1/6 of the waist circumference - 1 cm.
The resulting value must be deferred by an arc from the corner (for this you can use a pair of compasses or a centimeter tape). This will be the waistline. From it you need to count the length of the product and add allowances for the seams.
Cut skirts sun-flared (photo 2) - allows you to imagine the layout on the fabric more clearly.
There are two layout options:
- With this method, we lay out the fabric without bending and in the mirror image we perform cutting. This option is not recommended when using shiny, satin or fleecy fabric due to the fact that the material overflow or the direction of the pile will look different.
- Here, the fabric has a fold, and the product is seamless. Due to the limited width, it is not possible to sew too long a skirt.
- This option involves folding the fabric four times to get full sun from four quarters.
Pencil skirt
A very popular model for women. It can be performed in different lengths (up to the knees or calves), in a direct or downward version. Cutting a pencil skirt with pockets or deep pleats implies an increase in material consumption. Variations with the length and degree of narrowing will help to reveal the strengths and hide the flaws of the figure. Therefore, this type is often chosen by both model beauties and women with curvaceous forms, regardless of age.
Slim pencil skirt
The construction of the pattern is usually accompanied by taking measurements and building a grid of the base scheme. Next, follow these steps:
- Move the side lines inside the skirt, choosing a distance arbitrarily (for example, two centimeters).
- So that the wardrobe element does not hamper movements, it is necessary to provide a slot on the back half - 15-20 cm (depending on the length and degree of narrowness of the skirt). Take the width of the slots about four centimeters.
- The upper section of the skirt can be made in the following ways:
- turning inside;
- one-piece belt with a skirt;
- factory knitted girth.
Take a cut from a contrasting material for a cut. The length of the lining is calculated by adding sections of the front and back parts. Thus, a full-fledged pattern of a narrowed pencil skirt is ready. Before you start cutting fabric, you need to leave allowances of 1 cm for seams along the cutting sections and 4 cm for bending the bottom.
Conclusion
If you study the above instructions, it becomes clear that not so “higher mathematics” is the art of cutting, when you really want to be stylish and original. And if you give free rein to imagination and also engage in decorating the product (it can be a painting of fabric, embroidery or an interesting applique) - you can be firmly convinced that there is no such second instance anywhere else in the world. And it’s worth the effort, isn't it?