Due to the high yield of Red Globe grapes, the long shelf life of picked berries and consumer qualities, this variety has gained popularity around the world. This late-ripening variety was bred in California in the seventies of the XX century. At first, it was appreciated in Asian countries, but in the first half of the nineties it was noticed in Europe. Today, the world leaders in harvesting this grape variety are the USA, Chile and China.
Grapes Red Globe: variety description
This grape variety is easily recognized by its outstanding berries. On average, their diameter is from two and a half to three centimeters, and their weight is up to fifteen grams. With proper care, taking into account all the characteristics of the variety, the size of the berries reaches four centimeters, and the weight exceeds twenty grams.
Color ranges from light to dark pink, sometimes brown. The color of the Red Glob grapes depends on the level of illumination and maturity. Darkening of grapes is possible during prolonged storage. The rest of the berries fully retain their consumer qualities and are stored under normal conditions for up to four months.
Red Globe grapes have a thin, but at the same time strong peel, which almost does not crack. The pulp is dense and does not lose juice when cut. The taste is simple, but sometimes fruity notes are distinguished. Large bones are present in a small amount.
The sugar content is about fifteen percent, and the acidity varies from 4.5 to 7.5 g / l, depending on the degree of maturity. Excess acid leaves before the final ripening, which makes it possible to harvest ahead of schedule.
The clusters are large in size and medium in density. Their weight averages one kilogram. But with sufficient nutrition and plentiful watering reaches two and a half kilograms. Thanks to all these qualities, reviews about Red Glob grapes are only positive.
This grape variety is referred to as canteens, that is, its main purpose is to eat without any processing. Fruiting begins at the age of three. The ripening period is about five months, which is why the variety is considered to be medium late. Productivity is very high. In the first year of fruiting, about eight clusters are formed on one bush, by the second year their number doubles, and in the third year it can reach thirty.
Summer pruning of grapes
The vine can develop well without summer pruning, but in this case the plant will spend extra strength on the growth of new shoots. Consequently, less resources will be spent on the formation of bunches, and the size and quality of the crop may not live up to expectations. Berries will be less than they could, and their sugar content will be lower than standard.
Why pruning
For beginners, pruning grapes in the summer can be a problem, as among experienced growers there is often debate about whether to prune summer pruning. With the right approach, this procedure will definitely not hurt. On the contrary, it will direct the development of the vine in the direction the gardener needs. Trimming in the summer has the following advantages:
- nutrients and minerals contained in the soil, as well as the required amount of moisture, will fully reach only those branches on which clusters are formed;
- the chances of getting a crop with high palatability are increased;
- clusters of larger weight are formed, consisting of large berries;
- the vine will become more frost-resistant;
- excessive overgrowing is prevented, which makes the plant resistant to diseases and simplifies pest control.
With annual pruning, about a third of the young shoots must be kept, choosing the strongest. So you can significantly improve the vine. Constant thinning facilitates air circulation and allows sunlight to fully reach the surface of the leaves. Pruning is necessary for young plants in the first four years for the correct formation of a bush.
Dates of pruning and methods of forming a bush
Pinching (pruning of young shoots and buds at the ends of branches) should be done throughout the summer. To get the best yield, you should do this according to the following scheme:
- June should be dedicated to removing young shoots. So the main vine will receive all the food she needs.
- In July, you need to do the removal of stepsons.
- August is the time of minting (removal of the upper part of the shoots along with the leaves).
It will be easier to care for a properly formed bush, its productivity will increase. There are two methods of forming a bush: non-standard and standard.
Stampless formation
This approach is justified in areas where grapes are required to be covered for the winter. The branches of the bush will be arranged in the shape of a fan. You need to trim according to this scheme:
- In the first year, the plant will give from two to four shoots, which should be preserved.
- In the second year, you need to select the two strongest vines and cut them, leaving three buds on each, the remaining branches are removed, and the bush is tied to the trellis.
- In the third year, the four strongest branches should be selected, pairwise directed in different directions. They need to be cut to half a meter length, and the rest should be completely removed.
- In the fourth year, about fifteen buds should form on each vine.
Stamping
It is justified in places where sheltering of grapes for the winter is not required. In this case, the grape bush becomes like a tree. Subordinate vines depart from the main trunk (stem). With this method of trimming, the process of forming a bush is more natural. The advantages of this approach include:
- an increase in the size of bunches;
- better lighting and ventilation, increased frost resistance;
- increase immunity;
- increase in shoot diameter.
This approach to the formation of bushes is well suited for grape varieties with a high growth rate. Formation can begin when a sufficiently strong shoot appears on the bush, which can be cut to a length of a little less than a meter.
In the first year, the selected shoot is cut to a length of 110 centimeters. In spring, all shoots on the stub and bend are cut off, all young shoots on the shoulder from the side of the earth are also removed, except for the last - it is left to lengthen the shoulder.
In the second year, the shoots stored for the formation of sleeves are cut into three or four buds, and the shoot for lengthening the shoulder to the required length to complete it. Again shoots are removed from the ground and simply weak.
In the third year, fruit branches are formed on the first shoulder, and the branches of the plot that grew in the second year are cut into three or four buds. In general, the bush should have about twenty-five shoots.
In the fourth year, fruit branches can be formed on the lengthening of the shoulder. The total number of shoots reaches forty. And by the fifth year, the bush can carry a full load of sixty to seventy branches.
Types of pruning of the formed grape bush
Important and grape pruning in the summer. It is important for beginners to keep this in mind, as mature mature bushes also need care. It consists of several stages:
- Pinch. It is performed in the early summer, before flowering begins. The upper parts of young shoots are removed, which prevents their further growth.
- Trimming stepchildren. Produced weekly after flowering. Shoots from the leaf sinuses are removed. It is necessary to remove only the top, in order to avoid the appearance of new stepsons.
- In late summer, for more active ripening of berries, minting is carried out. When chasing, up to forty centimeters of the upper part of the shoots are removed, leaving a little more than 10 leaves. Do not mint too early - it only stimulates the growth of new stepsons.
The correct approach to the formation of bushes and their further pruning can greatly facilitate the care of the vineyard. In addition, this will have a positive effect on plant health, crop size and quality.