Wooden houses usually do not require insulation. After all, a beam or a log in itself is able to protect the internal space of a residential building very effectively. But sometimes such houses are insulated with insulators inside or outside. There is a need for this procedure, for example, in very cold regions or when the walls of a log or block structure have already become dilapidated. The floors and ceilings in such a building, of course, require insulation in any case.
The better to insulate a wooden house
As an insulator for the enclosing structures of a log or block-type residential building, the following are usually used:
mineral wool;
foam or foam.
Since the tree is afraid of moisture, when cladding the enclosing structures of such buildings, hydro- and vapor insulators are also mandatory. The base frame for installing insulation when cladding buildings made of wood is, of course, most often made of timber. Moreover, in most cases, lumber 150x100 or 50x100 mm is used.
A beam for mounting a frame when insulating facades, of course, it is worth acquiring high-quality. The material should not have too many knots. Also, the beam must be dried well. The humidity of the material selected for assembly of the frame should not exceed 12%.
For the outer wall cladding of wooden houses when they are insulated, different materials can be used. Of course, the lining and blockhouse are considered the most suitable type of exterior decoration for the facades of such buildings. However, such boards are quite expensive. Therefore, most often wooden houses outside are sheathed with siding or profiled sheeting.
Pros and cons of mineral wool
Sheathed walls, ceilings and floors of wooden buildings, usually using this particular material. Mineral wool is inexpensive and has simply excellent performance. The pluses of such plates, among other things, include:
They install mineral wool when warming wooden houses, usually without using any additional fasteners. Plates of this material are simply installed between the bars of a pre-packed frame at a loss.
The thermal conductivity coefficient of mineral wool, depending on its density, can range from 0.038 to 0.055 W / m * K. The indicator is actually very good. Warming of a wooden house with mineral wool allows you to create the most pleasant microclimate inside it.
This material, as an insulator for building envelopes at home, is able to perform its functions for 25-30 years. This, of course, is a lot. Such a material is made of basalt fiber capable of withstanding temperatures up to 1114 ° C. And even when this indicator is exceeded, such plates do not light up, but begin to melt. That is, the use of mineral wool when warming a country house also reduces the risk of fire.
Thus, mineral wool has many advantages. But this material has one drawback. Inside the pie of the walls, the slabs of this variety may slide down a little over time. And this, of course, in turn, reduces the effectiveness of building insulation. To choose for the insulation of the walls of a wooden house, therefore, there is mineral wool only from trusted manufacturers and a sufficiently high density.
Also, a certain disadvantage of such plates is that they are capable of absorbing moisture. It is impossible to violate the technology of thermal insulation of building envelopes, including wooden ones, using mineral wool. When installing such material, it is mandatory to use high-quality vapor and waterproofing materials.
Pros and cons of expanded polystyrene
This material for warming a wooden house is used less often than mineral wool. But sometimes timbered or cobblestone buildings are still sheathed with polystyrene foam. The advantages of such plates include:
Unlike mineral wool, polystyrene foam is not afraid of water. It can protect walls, floors and ceilings from the cold, even in wet weather, as efficiently as possible.
The coefficient of thermal conductivity of expanded polystyrene is 0.027-0.033 W / mK. That is, the walls of a wooden house from the cold can protect this material even better than mineral wool. Moreover, like basalt slabs, polystyrene foam can serve as an insulator of building envelopes from the cold for 25-30 years after installation.
The disadvantages of this material, as well as mineral wool, of course, also exist. The cons of polystyrene foam are considered primarily:
Unlike mineral wool, when installing expanded polystyrene, you have to use glue, as well as additional plastic fasteners. In addition, the slabs of this variety are fragile and some care must be taken when installing them.
Air, unlike fibrous basalt plates, polystyrene foam does not pass. Because of this, in some cases, a greenhouse effect may even occur under a layer of such an insulator. That is why more often their owners still choose mineral wool for cladding wooden houses.
Another serious drawback of foamed insulation is that mice and rats like to bite them. Inside such thick fragile sheets, rodents arrange passages and burrows for themselves. At the same time, all varieties of foamed insulation are distinguished by a similar drawback: polystyrene foam, polystyrene, foam.
The disadvantages of the insulators of this variety, in comparison with mineral wool, of course, include a rather high cost. Cladding the facades of a suburban building using foamed slabs is usually quite expensive.
Mineral wool insulation from the street: the main stages
Most often, the owners of suburban areas perform the insulation of wooden houses from the outside. Using this technology allows you to protect the building from the cold as efficiently as possible. Moreover, in this case, extra centimeters of the building’s internal space are not “eaten”.
The technology of warming a wooden house using mineral wool is as follows:
the walls are covered with vapor barrier film;
the frame is mounted under the heat insulator;
the mineral wool sheets themselves are installed;
mounted waterproofing;
Exterior wall cladding is in progress.
Installation of vapor barrier film
When warming wooden log houses, such material is usually attached directly to the walls. Cobbled buildings are fitted with a vapor insulator using a slightly different technology. In the log walls, under the film, in any case, there remains a ventilated free space (between the crowns). The film adheres very tightly to the cobblestone surface. This disrupts moisture and air exchange in the walls, which can lead to rotting of the tree.
To prevent this from happening, the vapor barrier film on the walls erected from the timber is not fixed directly, but with the use of 2.5 cm thick rails. Such elements are stuffed onto the facades with a step of 1 m, and then, on top of them, the vapor insulator is pulled.
Frame assembly and plate installation
After the steam insulator is mounted, they actually begin to warm the private wooden house with mineral wool. First, the frame is stuffed on the walls of the building. The bars are fixed in a strictly upright position using ordinary nails. The distance between the frame elements is left equal to the width of the mineral wool slabs minus 1-2 cm.
The heat insulator itself is mounted on the walls between the boards at a loss. Usually, insulation using mineral wool is performed in two layers. In this case, insulating material with a thickness of 5-10 cm is used. The second layer is mounted so that the plates overlap the seams of the first layer. If the walls are supposed to be insulated in one layer, usually 15 cm thick cotton wool is purchased for cladding.
Installation of waterproofing and external cladding
At the next stage, a moisture protective film is pulled over the insulation. Fasten this material to the walls with slats, stuffing them over the bars of the frame. The use of such elements in the subsequent allows you to create an air gap between the outer skin and the film for ventilation. This additionally protects the heat insulator from moisture.
The warming of a wooden house outside is completed with the installation of the most external finish. At the same time, the carriage is fastened to the nails either openly or using kleimers. Siding and professional sheet are installed using self-tapping screws.
Insulation of a wooden house with foam
Such boards are mounted on log walls using approximately the same technology as mineral wool. The only thing - in this case, usually do not use a vapor barrier. Moisture foam materials, as already mentioned, are not afraid. The fastening of the plates between the bars of the battens is carried out on plastic dowels.
Warming of a wooden house with polystyrene or foam, in the event that the walls are erected from a beam, is carried out in most cases using glue without a crate. At the same time, not siding or lining, but plaster is used as the final finish.
Sometimes, for greater reliability, the frame is still used when lining the cobblestone walls with polystyrene foam. In this case, the final finish is also done using usually siding or profiled sheet.
How to glue foam
The insulation of the facade of a wooden house when using this kind of insulator is carried out in compliance with the following rules:
for fastening one sheet using at least 6 dowels;
glue is applied to the sheet pointwise, and then spread with a spatula over its entire surface.
For gluing, the sheet is placed on the facade in the required position, tightly pressed to the surface and held in this way for several seconds.
Plastering
Warming of a wooden house with foam suggests, as already mentioned, in most cases its subsequent plastering. The walls are insulated in this way using the following technology:
knead the plaster mortar and apply it to the plates with an even layer of a thickness of 1-2 mm;
fixed on a fresh plaster masking net;
after drying, the plaster overwrites the wall with a grater;
apply another layer of plaster mixture with a thickness of 3 mm;
after a while, the wall again passes with a paint grater;
primed and painted facades.
Features of the casing from the side of the room
The main disadvantage of warming wooden houses from the inside is, first of all, that in this case the dew point moves inside the rooms. As a result, condensate subsequently begins to form on the surface of the insulation. And this, in turn, leads to a lag of the heat insulator from the wall and damage to the external decorative finish.
To prevent this from happening, you need to:
choose only the highest quality vapor insulators for cladding;
fasten the material to the walls closely;
use a heat insulator with a low degree of vapor permeability for insulation.
That is, to insulate the walls from the inside, even wooden ones, unlike the sheathing from the outside, it is more expedient to use not mineral wool, but expanded polystyrene. After all, the material generated in the room does not allow such material to pass through.
Of course, warming a wooden house from the inside can also be done using mineral wool. In this case, however, the plates should not only be installed between the uprights of the frame, but also glued additionally. On the log walls, fixing the cotton wool in this way, of course, will not work. Therefore, in this case, on top of the basalt slabs, the highest quality vapor barrier should be fixed. Cotton wool itself should be fairly dense when lining inside.
Features of floor insulation in a wooden house
To make it comfortable to live in a cobblestone or log cabin country house built in a cold region, its owners should insulate, of course, not only its walls. Isolate in the house in this case, of course, and floors. This will make the microclimate in a wooden building as comfortable as possible.
Thermal insulation of floors in a block or log house can be carried out in two ways:
The first technique is usually used in cases where the house is built on a strip of concrete foundation. If a wooden building stands on a columnar, it will be more convenient to isolate its floors from above.
To warm the floor in a wooden house from the bottom, in most cases, expanded clay is used. Wherein:
floor boards are dismantled, marked and removed from the premises;
around the supporting posts of the log, the soil is carefully compacted;
soil is laid with waterproofing material;
3 cm thick concrete screed is poured;
expanded clay filling is performed;
vapor barrier film is laid.
At the final stage, the boards are installed in place. Insulation of the floor in a wooden house from below - the procedure is, therefore, extremely simple.
Top floors in residential cobblestone or log buildings are most often insulated using polystyrene foam or mineral wool without dismantling the boards. The technology of insulation using such materials looks as follows:
At the final stage of the work, boards of a new floor are packed on top of the lag.
How to insulate the ceiling
In the vast majority of cases, the insulation of ceilings in a wooden house is made from the attic. In this case, it is allowed to use both polystyrene foam and expanded clay or mineral wool for insulation.
For insulation on the floor in the attic, lags are pre-mounted. Further, the space between them is covered with vapor barrier material. Then, between the lags, a heater is mounted. A layer of waterproofing material is laid over it. At the final stage, a new finishing floor is stuffed in the attic.
At the stage of building a house, the ceiling is usually insulated using a slightly different technology. In this case:
- floor beams are sheathed with a trimmed board from below using nails;
from above, a vapor insulator is placed on the boards between the beams;
plates of expanded polystyrene or mineral wool are mounted;
a hydroinsulator is laid;
from above the attic floor boards are stuffed onto the beams.
Sometimes the insulation of ceilings in a wooden house is made from below. Such technology is usually used when the house is supposed to be trimmed with plasterboard, plywood or lining from the inside. In this case:
all cracks in the ceiling are pre-blown with mounting foam;
mounted frame for future cladding;
insulation is glued to the ceiling between the frame elements;
additional fixing of the insulation material with plastic dowels;
finishing covering of the ceiling is carried out.
Most often in this way the ceilings are insulated using polystyrene foam. But you can apply in this case, and dense slabs of mineral wool.
How to insulate the roof
Sometimes in suburban cobblestone or log buildings, not directly ceilings isolate from the cold, but roof slopes. In this case, the owners of the house have the opportunity to equip a residential attic or attic. The roofs of suburban wooden buildings can also be insulated both inside and out.
The latter technology is used, of course, usually during the construction phase of a building. In this case, the insulation of the roof of a wooden house is as follows:
pull between the rafters from the attic side a vapor barrier film;
on top of the film, also from the attic side, a wire is attached to support the insulation;
set in opposition between the rafters of the mineral wool slab;
mounted on top of the wool waterproofing with mounting on rails;
they fill the crate over the rails;
assemble roofing material.
When using expanded polystyrene, a slightly different technique is used. In this case, the attic is first sheathed with plywood or, for example, OSB boards. Next, between the rafters on the side of the slope, polystyrene foam with fastening to glue is installed. Then mount the waterproofing, crate and roofing material.
In already built wooden houses, attics are usually insulated from the inside. In this case, first insulation boards are installed between the rafters on top of the waterproofing. Next, a vapor barrier material is pulled using a stapler. After that, the walls of the attic are sheathed with plywood or OSB plates.