Today, a jacket is one of the main things in a woman’s wardrobe. And if before it was attributed to a purely business style, today designers gave vent to imagination and included this piece of clothing in completely different ensembles. Complete freedom allowed to radically change the style of the jacket, giving it a diverse image.
However, many girls, despite this, will agree that it is rather difficult to find a jacket that fits perfectly in the sale, was not small in the chest and did not hang around the waist. And if thin people succeed, then women with more voluminous forms are very difficult to find a worthy option.
What to do in this case? To buy a jacket that will be good in the shoulders and chest and independently bring the thing to mind in the waist? Or is it better to immediately consider individual sewing of the product? If so, then you need a pattern of a female jacket, but is it possible to build it yourself? Of course, yes, and there is nothing complicated in its construction, the main thing is to understand the principle. And then, having felt the limitless possibilities, it will be possible to create real handmade masterpieces.
It is about how the pattern of the female jacket (fitted and straight silhouette) is built that will be discussed in this article. Here we will consider the basic techniques of designing without any obscure and frightening letters and designations that are used in book explanations.
Foundation building
The pattern of the female jacket is built on the basis of measurements taken from the figure. Therefore, using a centimeter tape, you should determine the following parameters:
- neck circumference;
- chest height;
- the length of the front from the base of the neck to the waist through the center of the chest;
- back width;
- the length of the back from the base of the neck to the waistline (along the spine);
- chest girth;
- tuck solution;
- waist circumference
- height from waist to hips;
- hip circumference;
- sleeve length from shoulder to wrist through a slightly bent elbow.
For ease of construction, the pattern of the female jacket is divided into two zones: the waist and hips and the chest and shoulders. The second is more difficult to build and includes shoulder seams and tucks of the back, armhole and shoulder seams and tucks of the shelves. In order to understand how the pattern of a female jacket is constructed, each of the zones should be carefully studied, and then there will be no difficulties.
Mesh for the base pattern
The whole drawing is built in a rectangle, where the vertical side is equal to the length of the product, and the horizontal is half the measure of chest circumference + a few centimeters for a loose fitting jacket. This value can be from 0.5 to 7 cm, depending on the model chosen and the fabric used. The pattern of the jacket of a female fitted silhouette should also have a small allowance so that the product does not hinder movements and does not hug the figure very much.
Further on the drawing it is necessary to designate all the horizontals: the line of the chest, waist and hips. Everything is quite simple here. The waist line is located at a distance similar to the length of the back to the waist + 3 cm (depth of neckline on the back) from the upper side of the rectangle. The hips line, as a rule, is 20-25 cm lower, but in order to determine the exact distance to the measurement value “back to waist length”, an allowance for free fit is added and the value is halved. Then determine the bottom of the product, which may be below or above the line of the hips. The chest line is found in accordance with the measure "chest height" + allowance for loose fitting + 1.5 cm to raise the shoulder seam of the shelf.
To complete the construction of the base mesh, you still need to determine the area of the armhole. To do this, on the side of the back in the drawing, at the level of the chest, ½ measures “back width” are laid. ¼ of the volume of the breast is laid off from the obtained point. Everything, the armhole area is ready for work.
The step-by-step pattern of a female cut jacket described below will help to create a basic foundation, which, with various modeling options, will make it possible to sew absolutely any jacket, starting from a classic strict one and ending with a sports one.
It should be noted that during the construction process you get half the front and back shelves.
Work with the area of shoulder seams and back tucks
The first step is to determine the location of the neck. To do this, from the upper corner of the rectangle lay in the depth of the drawing on the upper side 1/3 of the half of the circumference of the neck and put a point. On the vertical side of the corner, lay three centimeters down the line and connect the resulting points, making the neckline of the back.
The pattern of a classic jacket (female) has shoulder tucks that provide a snug fit on the neck and without extra folds on the shoulders. To indicate them, 5 cm recede from the edge of the neck and lower a straight line 10 cm long at a right angle. The depth of the tuck is usually not more than 1.5 cm, so this value is set aside at the top and the tuck is closed with a second straight line.
Next is the turn of building the shoulder seam. Two auxiliary lines should be drawn here. The first goes from the extreme point of the neck to the vertical, indicating the beginning of the armhole zone. At the end point, it should be lowered 1 cm from the top of the rectangle.
Another line begins at the intersection of the second line, denoting the shoulder tuck. It also ends at the border of the armhole zone, but they are located 3 cm below the upper side of the rectangle. It is from this point that the armhole will be built in the future. It turns out that the second part of the shoulder seam begins immediately after tucking and ends on the line of the beginning of the armhole zone. However, this straight line should be extended by another 10 cm, so that later it would be easier to build the shoulder of the front shelf.
Work with the area of shoulder seams and tucks shelves
Further, the construction of a pattern of a female cut jacket continues from the side of the shelf. Here you also need to mark the neckline. First, draw a parallel on the top side of the rectangle at a height of 1 cm and lay 1/3 of the half of the neck circumference + 2 cm, and on the side - 1/3 of the half of the measurement + 3 cm. After these points are connected by a smooth line, drawing almost a quarter of a circle .
Then proceed to the construction of the first element of the shoulder seam. It originates at the extreme point of the neck of the shelf. First draw a line that is 5 cm and ends on the upper side of the rectangle, after which they continue for another 10 cm.
The following is the construction of a thoracic tuck. First, you should determine the center of the chest. To do this, ½ part of the measure “undercut solution” is laid along the chest line and the resulting point is connected to the edge of the first element of the shoulder suture. Then, along the conducted auxiliary line, 7–9 cm are measured and the second line of the thoracic tuck is lowered, closing it at the base.
After they return to the construction of the shoulder seam, namely to its second element. Here you will need to play a little with the ruler in order to measure the length and build the slice so that the line starts at the intersection of the second straight line, ascending from the chest protrusion with an auxiliary line of the first element of the shoulder, and ends where the auxiliary line coming from the shoulder of the rear shelf intersects with the necessary value on the line.
Work with armhole
It is clear that the pattern of a simple jacket of a female style is a very difficult drawing, but if you work carefully, the construction will not cause difficulties. The stage of work with the armhole of the product should begin with the fact that the zone of the element selected along the line should be divided in half and draw a parallel 1 cm below the chest line. Next, you need to find the reference point of the armhole of the front shelf.
To do this, measure "chest height" is divided into three parts and set the value on the line that defines the zone of the armhole of the front part. The resulting point is connected to the edge of the shoulder seam, but not with a straight line, but with a slightly curved line, shifted inward of the front part by 1-1.5 cm in the center of this segment. Also, from the reference point to the center of the armhole, a smooth rounded line is drawn that resembles the contour of a quarter circle. A rounded line is also drawn along the rear shelf, covering the armhole at the edge of the shoulder section.
Work with the waistline
The next step is the simplest. The pattern of a short jacket (female), the length of which is only a few centimeters below the waist, will be completed at this stage. The first step for any model is to lower the waist line by 1 cm with a smooth line from the middle vertical of the part to the side seam. After that, the work will consist in determining the location of the tackle darts and their sizes. In total, 4 tucks should be obtained in the drawing: along the line of the center of the chest on the front flange, along the side seam, along a vertical line lowered from the top of the shoulder tuck to the bottom of the product, and in the middle section of the back. The calculation is as follows: from the line of the chest, take the measure “waist circumference” and divide this value into 4 parts.
On the side cuts, the top of the tuck should start at the point of the center of the armhole zone and go to the hip line in accordance with the girth value. On the front shelf, the tops should end before reaching the center of the chest by 2-3 cm and at a distance of 4-6 cm from the line of the hips. The maximum size of this pinch should be no more than 2.6 cm. On the back flange, the tops should be 2-3 cm above the line of the chest and not reaching the thigh line by 3-4 cm. At the middle seam of the back, the tuck goes out on the line of the hips . Here you can build an extended jacket for women. The pattern in this case is constructed similarly, only all verticals are extended to the required level of the bottom of the product.
Arm sleeve construction
The pattern of the sleeve of a female-type jacket should coincide with the cut length of the armhole at an angle. Therefore, before you start working with the drawing, you need to measure not only the girth along the top of the arm and wrist and the length of the sleeve, but also the perimeter of the armhole, in accordance with which the eye will be built.
For ease of construction, you should take a separate segment of the construction film or paper and transfer the main lines of the finished armhole to it. Next, in the drawing, you should draw a circle, which will turn out if you close the cutouts of the armhole on the back and shelf. After it is divided approximately in half, continuing up the midline of the armhole, and rise above the circle by 1.5 cm.
Next, along the line of the chest, measure “volume of the upper arm”. It is important to correctly distribute the fit of the sleeve, usually 2-3 cm more are laid aside the back. After it follows from the extreme points of the width of the sleeve to "mirror" the rises of the armhole, and on top draw the previously closed circle above the line by 1.5 cm and lower the lines along the front and back, closing the sleeve ridge.
Modeling
Product modeling is one of the most interesting tailoring processes. It is at this stage that you can make blanks for embossed seams by cutting all the details of the cut, starting from the shoulder seams and along the verticals passing through the waist tucks, the thigh line to the bottom, dividing the drawing into separate cut elements. This is how different jackets are born. Women's patterns, photos of which are proposed in the article, can be taken as the basis for the manufacture of jackets.
Today, models without collars with a minimum of fasteners are in trend, which means that the basic pattern of the product is all that is needed for a chic fashionable jacket. Here it remains only to indicate the line of picks, which on the wrong side of the product will border the lining fabric. Such a pattern of a short jacket of a female fashion cut will be an excellent base for creating the perfect wardrobe.
The choice of fabric for sewing
Today in the fabric stores there is such a variety that you can really get confused. However, when choosing a material for tailoring a jacket, it should be remembered that the fabric should keep its shape, since the range of costume and jacket materials is simply abundant. Even if it is a summer jacket, it is best to sew from linen or thin jeans, rather than from a highly creasing staple. Although laws are not written in sewing, you can always experiment.
Tricks of cut and assembly of the product
The pattern of a jacket (female) without a collar is just a godsend for the craftswomen. Using this template, you can sew not only the original fashionable jacket, but also a spring or summer raincoat. Today, such fitted models, not burdened with turn-down collars or racks, are very popular. And due to a simple cut and tailoring is facilitated several times.
When cutting the main fabric on all parts, allowances of approximately 1 cm should be given for processing the seams, 3 cm should be added along the bottom of the sleeves and shelves. At the same time, cutting out the details from the lining fabric at all seams, you should also give an allowance of 1 cm, and here on the bottom from the length you need to subtract 1.5 cm. Also, do not forget about the product picks that are made from the main fabric. They are a frame around the perimeter of the product from the inside.
To design this element on the pattern, it is necessary to note parallel cut lines at a distance of 7-10 cm from the edge along the middle section of the shelves and the neck of the back. The pattern of a female jacket without a collar is good because in the assembly process you only need to connect the lining to the selection, and after the collar to the base. In order to connect the base with the lining, these elements are turned inside out and folded face to face.
After laying the seam, the product is turned out through one of the unclosed sleeve seams of the lining fabric. Here you should not forget to make incisions in the seam allowances in places where the fabric is cut in a semicircle or corner so that the seams do not pull. Next, connect the parts along the bottom of the sleeves and close the open working seam from the inside.