There is a fairly wide range of devices with which you can solder something in everyday life. Naturally, the heating elements for soldering irons are also different from each other. If you are going to acquire this tool, you should, first of all, think about what purpose you need it for, as well as be guided by this article to get the right thing.
Nichrome heater
The simplest soldering iron is, in fact, a nichrome heater, which is wound through a heat-resistant insulation on a copper sting. The current passing through nichrome heats it, as a result of which the heating element of the soldering iron is also heated.
There are models for both 20 W and 1.5-2 kW. And the scope of their application is limited to rough electrical work, sealing of small mechanical defects in buildings, tanks. The reason for such restrictions is high temperature, which is the basis for overheating of radio components, a printed circuit board. Because of this, the use of these elements in microprocessor technology is simply impossible.
Ceramic heater
Soldering irons with a ceramic component are considered more advanced. A heating element of a soldering iron made of such a material during careful handling lasts much longer than nichrome, and today it is considered the most effective heater. Soldering irons with a ceramic element have a wide range of temperature control, which already makes them suitable for working with electronics. And some models are equipped with microprocessor temperature control.
Induction heater
There are also soldering irons with induction heater. Their work is as follows: a ferromagnetic coating is applied to the soldering iron heating element, and the tip itself is placed in a coil. Currents are induced in the ferromagnetic coating, due to which the tip is heated to the desired temperature. At the same time, such a coating reaches the Curie point and loses its magnetic properties; heating stops. As the temperature decreases, the magnetic properties are restored, and heating resumes. Thus, the temperature of the soldering iron tip is maintained without the use of thermocouples, temperature sensors, and other unnecessary electronics.
Impulse Soldering Iron
For work with electronics there are special pulse soldering irons. Their advantage is that they do not have a massive sting that accumulates heat. Heating occurs almost instantly, because of this, radio components and printed circuit boards do not have time to overheat and, accordingly, do not deteriorate when working with such a soldering iron.
The principle of operation of the circuit is based on the use of a transformer, in which the primary winding is wound around 220 V, and the secondary winding is 1-2 volts. The latter is shorted to low resistance. Due to this, the transformer converts the voltage into current, which, passing through the sting, heats it almost instantly in the thinnest place.
Do not forget about the operating mode of such a soldering iron. Modern appliances are equipped with a temperature and power controller. For work in places with a lack of electricity, there are mobile versions of soldering irons.
Gas soldering iron
A gas container, an adjustment valve and a gas burner heating the tip are built into the body of this device, due to which the solder melts. When removing the tip, the soldering iron usually turns into a small pencil-type gas burner. Refueling appliances, usually a lighter.
It should be noted that the passport for such a soldering iron indicates the gas with which it should be charged. Due to the lack of precise temperature control, the use in electronics is limited.
Rechargeable soldering iron
A more advanced mobile version of the soldering iron is a rechargeable soldering iron, which is suitable for soldering electronics. Its excessively low power (no more than 15 W) makes the device not very popular among masters. Although, for some works, such a soldering iron is indispensable.
Tool care
Before you start working with any soldering iron, you should mechanically process the sting with sandpaper. How to irradiate a soldering iron tip:
- Without much zeal and enthusiasm, we grind a little tinning place.
- Then we turn on the heat, then dip the sting into the most ordinary rosin and melt a little solder, rubbing the molten ball on a wooden surface.
- The cleaned place should acquire the color of molten tin, and a drop should adhere well.
Over time, after constant work, the copper tip of the soldering iron becomes scaled, soot and sinks. It is worth removing carbon deposits after each use, as it interferes with normal heat transfer. Dross with shells should be cleaned upon detection. Everything grinds to a steady copper shine, and then it flashes again.
It is worth noting that there are simply no good soldering irons with a steel sting. If the seller is trying to sell you a tool with a sting made of this material, refuse to purchase. On the other hand, a steel element can always be replaced with a copper one, turning a copper bar under the shape of a wedge or needle you need.