When sewing products at home, you should pay attention to such an element as a neck, the processing of which is sometimes difficult for beginners. Let's look at the existing methods of processing cuts in a garment and the necessary technological operations for this.
One of the classic options for such processing is to grind sections of armholes and necks with the help of an oblique inlay or to process the necks with a stitch that is cut from the same fabric with the obligatory location on it so that the shared threads of parts and stitches match them. An exception is the fabric embroidered with sequins , it is treated with a lining fabric.
When cutting the skirts around their perimeter, an allowance is required. To prevent stretching of the slices, it is necessary to strengthen each part of the facing with non-woven. The liner from the gasket along with the seam allowance should be ironed to the wrong side of the fabric liner with contour transfer.
How to process a round neck
The processing of the neck of the product begins with the grinding together of the details of the facing, ironing and sewing allowances for the seams. Then its inner slice also needs to be overcast. After that, we grind the grind with the neck with the front sides inward and grind. The allowances of the resulting seam are cut as close as possible to the line, in the places of rounding we make notches that do not reach the seam line by 2 mm.
Please note - if there is no need to rebuild the neck, the machining allowance should be ironed. At the same time, make sure that small folds do not work out. It is most convenient to carry out the operation of ironing on the edge of the ironing board or on a special pad.
The next step: we grind the grind to the allowance near the seam of the grind, turn it on the wrong side. The edge should be swept out so that the seam is located near the bend from the inside, and it would not be visible from the front side. You can also stitch the neck - at will.
Further actions
The hem is attached to the allowances of each shoulder seam with a pair of stitches. If the design includes a zipper, grind it before you begin to sharpen the neck.
Overshoots of the cut edges should be unscrewed and sewn to the fabric band of the zipper. In the case of an on-board product (or having a one-piece board), the latter is first turned on to the front of the product, then the neck with its turning is already cleaved. After that, they cut the grind until its short cut to the side of 1 cm comes in and grind it.
Then, in a similar way, the seam allowances are cut close to the stitch, the sub-flange (or the edge of the cut), along with the neckline are turned on the inside and the bottom, then ironed and sewn to each other.
A neck in the shape of a square or V-neck is treated similarly to a round one. To turn the grind to the wrong side, allow the seam allowances in the corners and cut near the seam near the top.
Armhole Processing
But attention requires not only the neck. Processing armholes is just as important. They are also purely turned by grinders, similar to a round neck. It is convenient to simultaneously perform side seams. This will allow you to adjust the product in width without tearing off the grind - due to the allowance of each side seam. It is important at the same time that the allowances for the linings and side seams of the product itself are the same in width.
How to achieve this? First, the shoulder seams should be processed both on the product and on each stitching with overcasting and ironing of allowances. Then - overcast the stitches along the inner cuts. Throughout the entire product (on both sides), the grind is chipped with the armhole on the front sides and grinded.
The seam allowances are cut very close to the line with notching in the rounded sections and are ironed to the edge. Then it is ground to the seam allowances next to the seam. One line is used to grind grinding with side sections of the product. Seam allowances are tacked and ironed. The edge is turned to the wrong side, the edge is swept out. Then it is sewn to the seam allowances (lateral and shoulder).
How to complete a uniform turning of armholes and necks
Such an operation is performed for models without sleeves and with narrow shoulders - in this case, the grindings of the armholes and necks represent a single part. Since it is not possible to reverse the stitching as a result of connecting all circular slices, the shoulder seams are temporarily left open. They are grind off later.
Initially, the lower cuts are trimmed. They should be folded with sections of the neck and armholes to each other with the front sides. Then chop off the cuts of the armholes and necks with the alignment of the seam lines. Start by leaving unstitched about 3 cm of the seam below the marked shoulder line. Align the edges of the seam.
Seam allowances are cut close to the stitch. The obtachka on the front part is turned inside out, in front with the back and the obtachka are folded with their front sides. Before pinned to the back along the marked shoulder line, stitched. Then, the shoulder lines of the edges are chipped and also grinded.
The shoulder seams are ironed allowances. Open sections of armholes and necks chamfer and grind. Before it is pulled from each shoulder edge of the back, the turning of the back will automatically turn out on the wrong side. The edges of the armhole and the neck are ironed from the side of the stitches. Side slices of the linings and the product itself are folded face to face and chipped, then are sewn together in a single line.
If the shoulder sections are very narrow
With the width of the shoulder sections of 3 cm and less, the stitches are pinned to them face to face and stitched exactly to the place of the shoulder seams, at the end of which a fastening is made. The allowances are also cut very close to the line with notching in rounded areas.
Tips are turned to the wrong side, ironed. Shoulder sections are grinded with the front sides without grasping the grind. Seam allowances are laid out, turned edges are sewn together with several stitches.
Pure turning with an oblique trim
Another type of processing to cut an armhole or cut a product is the processing of the neck with an oblique trim, both finished and cut from fabric. Ready-made trimming (made of cotton or other material) can be bought at any sewing store. They are matte or glossy, their range is quite wide. The recommended width of the finished inlay folded in half is 4 cm.
The processing of the neck with an inlay begins with its unfolding and ironing. If it is decided to cut it out of the main or lining fabric, the inlay blank is folded in half inside the inside out, ironed down with the shape of a rounded neckline (this operation is called "pulling the edges"), open sections are planted.
The neckline and neckline are pinned to each other with their faces in such a position that the neckline is about one and a half centimeters from the planned seam line, and its open sections are on the stock. The edging is sewn from the inside of the back and is transmitted exactly along the line marked for the neckline. Seam allowances are cut.
The slanting inlay is turned to the wrong side, its edges are swept and ironed. Another shoulder suture is performed, side sections are sutured. Attention should be paid to the even arrangement of the neck sections relative to each other. The resulting seam is ironed, tacked and manually sewn along the neck of the allowance. Neck stitching - optional.
How to handle corners
If the corners are internal, the oblique hem is stitched to the corner. It is turned to the side, the bend is fixed with a pin, the tape is stitched from the corner, swept out and ironed. In the corner, a fold is laid and sewn up. On the front side, the edge is rebuilt.
Processing the external corners, grind the oblique inline to the corner, cut its inlet allowance next to the last stitch, then grind the inlay from the notch. In the corner, the allowance is incised obliquely. The tape is swept on the wrong side, a fold is formed and sewn in the corner. The edges are ironed and trimmed.
Additional tips
To prevent the curvature of the sections of both the neck and the armhole during the process of turning with an oblique inlay, iron the flizelin from the inside.
Sewing side sections should be started after a clean turning of the armhole.
If the product does not have a fastener in the neck area, start by stitching the shoulder sections. Do not forget to iron and overcast seam allowances.
Knit Neck Processing
Knitwear is an unchanging leader among fabrics from which models of women's clothing are sewn. From it the most elegant and elegant models are obtained. They are practical and comfortable, they can be worn all year round.
Neck processing in knitwear plays an important role. There are many options here - finishing with a variety of elastic bands, steering wheel from the front surface (we are talking about hand-knit products in which the neck is processed with knitting needles), decorative edges, etc.
Consider the technology for processing the neck of a product made from elastic knitwear. For example, let it be the processing of the neck of the dress. Suppose our neck has the shape of a boat, we will process it with a grinder. The processing principle is maintained for cutouts of any shape - oval, square, etc.
Where to begin?
First of all, according to the figure, we specify the shape that our neck has. Processing it begins with folding the entire product in half and pinning it with pins. We cut the obtachka from a half-fold cut of fabric, applying it to the neckline and circling the latter with chalk.
As you know, in knitted things the neck is stretched more easily, so that the lining is to be glued with knitted doubler. If the knitwear is tight enough, you can do with ordinary non-woven fabric.
Grind the grind along the shoulder seams and pin or sweep to the neck of the product. We carry out the line at a distance of about 7 mm from the edge. Seam allowances are trimmed to 3-4 mm; for turning them out, notches are made on them. Fasten the facing with a finishing seam along it at a distance of about 1 mm from the seam.
The oblique trim option is suitable only for an oval neck.
So our neck is ready. Processing it, as you see, is not such a complicated matter. Good luck to everyone in mastering the secrets of sewing skills!