The patchwork technique has long been known in many countries. It consists in compiling a variety of compositions - mosaic patterns - from scraps of fabric cut out according to the pattern, both variegated and plain. We have such a work called patchwork (print) mosaic.
In the compositions made in this technique, there are no visible seams on the front side of the product, in contrast to the application (sewing patchwork on a single background). Both directions can be present and combine perfectly with each other in the same product.
The history of patchwork is of interest to many. How and when did this unusual tradition of “collecting” things from pieces of fabric come about? In which country did it originate? Let's briefly go back in time.
The history of the patchwork
England is considered to be the birthplace of this technique. But in fact, the history of the appearance of patchwork is associated with much more ancient times. A sample of the ornament is exhibited in the Cairo National Museum, the material for which was leather fragments of a gazelle skin, scientists date it to 980 BC. e. The Tokyo Museum houses an old outfit of a similar age with patchwork patterns. In 1920, an English archaeologist A. Stein discovered a Buddhist carpet dating back to around the 9th century, sewn by monks from many pieces of pilgrim clothing.
The history of patchwork in Europe is no less interesting. There is an assumption that this craft came from the East along with the knights returning from the Crusades, who brought along carpets, banners, clothes and fabrics as trophies. Then, at the end of the 18th century, immigrants from England, Holland and Germany brought the patchwork technique to America, where it was significantly improved and turned into a national form of creativity.
The western name for this technique is patchwork. This practical and inexpensive type of decorative art originally existed in England, where from the 16th century excellent cotton fabrics of bright patterns and colors were brought from India. A characteristic feature of wealth in the house was an Indian blanket, luxuriously decorated with a printed pattern or embroidery.
England as the birthplace of patchwork
Since genuine colonial goods were far from affordable for everyone, quickly enough English manufactories mastered the production of fakes - locally made blankets made from imported fabrics. Since 1712, the government of England, in order to develop its own manufactory industry, was forbidden to import and sell Indian chintz and products from it. Since then, the history of patchwork in the country has received an impetus for development.
Chintz has become smuggled and expensive. Sewing clothes from it, the lean English women let the rest of the fabric onto other products - mainly appliqués for woolen and linen paintings. The smallest patches gathered in a mosaic, forming a single canvas.
The history of patchwork in Russia
In our country, references to this technique have been found since the 19th century with the sale of overseas expensive chintz. This art reached its heyday at the end of the 19th century, which was due to the beginning of the development of chintz production by machine in manufactories and the widespread distribution of inexpensive printed cotton fabrics. Thus, in our country the whole history of patchwork is briefly reduced to the appearance of industrial production in the textile sector.
Chintz shirts and sarafans are firmly established in everyday life. Their decoration, as a rule, was a patchwork ornament. Thrifty housewives managed from the smallest chintz scraps left after cutting clothes to collect a lot of useful products - and blankets, and curtains, and rugs, and pillows, and much more.
Made in Russia
The history of patchwork in our country traditionally comes down to the technique of "village" patterns - a simple mosaic of triangles, squares, stripes and contrasting inserts of bright color. The most interesting and noteworthy are the volumetric technologies characteristic of Russian sewing.
The essence of this technology is as follows. All the patches are cut out according to the pattern in the form of a square or circle and are folded by triangles. Those group in rows and in a circle attach to the base, which is a dense fabric. Another option - the fabric is cut into strips, from which long bundles are twisted. Then weaves a pigtail-cord. Several of these braids of different colors are laid out on a fabric in a circle and sewn together.
And nowadays?
In the twentieth century (namely, in the 70s) there was a new surge in fashion for clothes, jewelry and interiors in the folk style, on the wave of which interest in this technique revived. Museums became interested in this kind of folk art, which began to collect samples of products.
As a result, entire collections of masterpieces of folk applied art appeared (which is not surprising, because the history of patchwork sewing goes back many decades). And they are stored in the All-Russian Museum of Decorative, Applied and Folk Art of Moscow, the State Russian Museum of St. Petersburg, the Museum of Ivanovo Chintz and many city local history museums. Patchwork technology has attracted a huge number of modern professional artists.
Is it easy to sew from shreds?
This technique is not as simple as it might seem at first glance. The artist is required not only to possess sewing skills, but also a subtle sense of style, color and, of course, taste. A good result is possible only with high precision cut and stitching elements. A difference of just a few millimeters can lead to a skew of the entire product. It is required to perfectly master both manual and machine stitches (the term “quilting” means stitching through completely a pad of cotton, a layer of batting or any other material placed between two layers of decorative fabric). The stitch may have various patterns that further adorn the product.
Why do not the craftswomen sew from colorful shreds! They create many diverse things - from rag dolls, blankets, tablecloths, pillows, curtains, tacks, rugs to panels and paintings, as well as bags, jackets and vests. Having a developed taste, the artist has complete freedom in choosing fabrics and compiling her own, always unique pattern.
Mastering the intricacies of this original art requires patience and a reserve of time. Beginning needlewomen can be advised to take up a simple product of a small size, for example, a tack. In the manufacture of any item in patchwork technology, first of all, you need to master the connection of a pair of rectangular colored triangles of the same size into a square, then making strips from similar squares, after which a number of strips will be stitched together into a continuous web.
What is required of the artist
A necessary component of success is the presence of accuracy and artistic taste. So that the composition does not ripple in the eyes, pieces of fabric must harmonize with each other in color. A successful geometric solution can give the composition a truly unique flavor. Difficulty arises when working with shreds, which, in addition to the main pattern, have many additional colors and shades. Composing a single canvas, the master has to check the achieved effect every minute. And the main thing in his work is not the theory of color combinations, but his own intuition.
Amazing variety of patchwork crafts amazes and attracts attention. In the decoration of the kitchen, tablecloths, elegant napkins, colorful potholders are striking, in the bedroom there are blankets, all kinds of rugs and pillowcases. Getting into the living room, we pay attention to decorative panels, and the wardrobe stores accessories in the form of a purse, bag and even clothes - it can be a cozy quilted vest or summer sundress in a folk style.
Modern tendencies
Nowadays, patchwork attracts both professional artists and amateur craftsmen. Someone is passionate about tailoring blankets, making a national art a source of inspiration , another chose to make clothes enriched with the decorative diversity of the Russian folk costume.
In any of the cases, the interweaving of modern sewing techniques with folk traditions can be traced, and thereby penetration into the cultural heritage of the past. Patchwork of the Russian style is characterized by a special brightness, “fun” of colors. In the patterns there is always a multicolor, there inexplicably harmonious variety of colorful motifs, fabrics of several textures are harmoniously combined.
In a number of Russian cities, fans of this original wonderful work organized their clubs. Fans of patchwork sewing hold joint events, meetings, exhibitions and festivals, up to the implementation of international projects.
The history of the development of patchwork is by no means completed today. All over the world, such a craft is being reborn, many countries claim priority in this field of applied creativity. Perhaps it is most correct to consider it an international art - belonging to the whole world. Like other methods of artistic expression, it serves as an accessible and understandable language for the interaction of representatives of different faiths and nations.