For many needlewomen, it is not a problem to sew a knitted T-shirt or sweatpants. But when it comes to more complex work, for example, tailoring a shirt, you need to have either experience or a good enough abstract with the theory of processing of this product. The yoke on the back, shoulder seams, buttonhole buttonholes, and stand collar design are usually straightforward. But the processing of sleeve cuffs for many becomes a stumbling block.
The peculiarity of a long sleeve is that it has a cut, or, as it is also called, a slot. And if the short version is simply tucked up and tuned, then with the long one it will be necessary to work more carefully. There are several processing methods. We will discuss them further.
Varieties of processing
The cuff on the sleeves in the women's shirt can be framed with a classic and fake slot, a cleanly cut slit, a fastener on an air loop and a zipper.
A classic shirt is usually used in a men's shirt. Only occasionally make out a zipper and a cleanly groomed incision. Even if the sleeve cuff is under the cufflinks, on the shirts for men they make a slot and put a button in the middle of the cut.
Sleeve cut location
According to the cut, the long sleeve can be single-seam and two-seam. Both in the first and in the second embodiment, a cut is made in the cuff. In a two-seam sleeve, everything is simple: sections of an additional seam 10-12 cm from the bottom are left open. If the sleeve is single-seam, it is folded in sections. Next, the center of the lower cut is determined and the perpendicular is raised from it by 10-12 cm.
When sewing short-sleeved shirts, an incision is not made.
Option One: Classic Slot
We are used to having at least three buttons in a classic shirt on the sleeve. Two on the cuff (to adjust its width) and one in the middle of a special cut. Such a fastener is usually formed when processing a cut with a classic slot. In this case, the edges of the sleeve cuff coincide with the edges of the slots and form an overlap. The edge that is closer to the seam of the sleeve always serves as an allowance for the fastener. It is on it that a button is placed.
How to sew a cuff to a sleeve with a classic slot? Firstly, two strips of fabric are cut along a shared thread :
- the width is twice as much as the finished turning and the length is 5 cm more than the cut;
- 1.5 cm wide and 0.5 cm longer than the cut.
A large strip is used to design the outer edge of the slice, a smaller one to design the edge of the inner overlap.
- Processing the bottom of the sleeve begins with the fact that they take a smaller strip of turning and connect it to the cut of the sleeve, which is closer to the main seam. To do this, the strip is applied to the edge of the cut from the inside and tuned. After the free edge is tucked onto the face and a line is laid, closing the free sections.
- A large strip is sewn according to the same principle, so that the slices are closed in the stitching.
- At the top of the section of the sleeve to the edges, oblique notches are made.
- A smaller edge is turned inside out, ironed, bending the edges of the slices inward.
- They grind a large grind, bend the upper sections with an envelope and adjust along the edge, fixing the upper base of the sleeve section.
When the incision is made, the cuff parts already stabilized by the interlining and the interconnected parts are joined along the bottom. At the same time, the sleeve fabric is laid in folds, departing from the cut from the side of the part of the slot, going along the top, 3-4 cm.
The splines of the left and right sleeves are processed in mirror image.
Option Two: Groove Cut
One of the simplest options for processing a cut when sewing shirts is to design it with an oblique trim. As a rule, with this treatment, the button is not sewn to the center of the cut.
- from the main fabric "oblique" cut a strip of fabric;
- unfold the section of the sleeve in a straight line and, on the inside, attach the trim section to section;
- The sewn part is smoothed, tucked onto the face and a line is laid along the fold.
Option Three: A Clean Cut
To apply this method, you need a strip of fabric equal to the length of the sleeve cut plus 4 cm and a width of 4 cm.
- The part is placed on the sleeve panel so that its cut is strictly in the center of the strip.
- A line is made around the cut, notches are made in the corners, and the sewn part is turned inside out.
- The part is ironed, the edges are tucked inward and a line is laid along the fold.
This type of finish is most often used in women's shirts. Moreover, the length of the sleeve here can be any, and air loops from the braid can be inserted into the lining. With this type of cut processing, a conventional lapel inside out can be formed.
This method is also used to design sleeves with zippers. First they attach a lightning, on top of it - a sharpening. Thus, a neatly designed lock comes out.
Option Four: Fake Slot
The easiest and fastest way to arrange a slot on a sleeve is to make a fake slot. The length of the sleeve with this design can be any. As a rule, this method is used when sewing women's things. As a cuff is a strip of fabric equal to the required length for the girth of the arm + overlap on the clasp. On the sleeve, an incision is not made, and the fold is not closed into the cuff part. The fabric of the sleeve, which does not fit into the cuff along the lower cut, is tucked inside out twice and tuned, and on the cuff the button is sewn and the loop is swept out.
The fifth option: the design of cuffs of a two-seam sleeve
If, according to the idea of the model, the sleeve should be with two seams, then the turning of the sleeve cut is made whole-cut. This makes processing a little easier, since you just need to properly lay and stitch the fabric.