Women's dress is one of the most successful inventions of mankind, because only it is able to endow its owner with charm, in which there is a special grace and mystery. Starting the story of what a 19th-century dress is, it should be noted that its length never rose above the ankles. This garment was shortened already in the swift 20th century.
What was the dress at the beginning of the 19th century
The history of clothing is closely connected with the styles that prevailed in the art of one time or another. The beginning of the 19th century was marked by the advent of the Empire style in Europe. This name comes from the French word "empire" and appeals to the military successes of Napoleon, whom the bourgeoisie adored. From the outgoing classicism, the empire was more solemn and pompous.
Instead of delicate color shades, he suggested expressive contrasts. And the lines of the suit resembled themselves in high slender columns. To make the resemblance the most complete, in the manufacture of dresses used dense plain fabrics with symmetrical patterns in the decoration. The flowing silhouette made it possible to create thin fabrics - gas, muslin, cambric, which sheathed the dense basis of the outfit. The proportions remained the same as in the XVIII century - a high waist and a straight skirt in a ratio of 1: 6. But there were much more decorative details: ruffles and frills, lace and embroidery. The dress of the 19th century (beginning) had a low neckline and a sleeve-lantern on the cuff. Often it was decorated with a train. The complement to the outfit could be a shawl - silk or wool, with a fringe or border in the form of an ornament.
How the style has changed
By the early thirties of the 19th century, the high waist began to return to its rightful place. Romanticism reigned in art celebrated sensuality and "alien" worlds, and in the style of clothing demanded that the figure seemed refinedly fragile. Instead of a slender and impregnable ancient goddess, the woman now resembled a light, exquisite figurine. Narrow corsets came into fashion, the dress was to emphasize the subtlety of the waist of its owner. To visually enhance this effect, designers expanded the skirts, which began to resemble a bell, and reduced their length. A 19th-century dress revealed graceful female ankles and required elegant stockings as an accessory. The highlight of the new style was a special cut of the sleeve - the so-called gigot ("lamb leg"). The sleeve was very wide at the shoulder, and narrowed strongly from the line of the elbow to the cuff. The neckline was intended for evening outings, but in the afternoon the ladies covered it with scarves, shawls or pelerines. The dress was generously decorated with ribbons and lace.
Dress of the 19th century: forties and fifties
During this period, corsets tightened the waist even tighter, and the skirts expanded due to the abundance of the lower layers. The lowest skirt was made of horsehair and thick linen, the term “crinoline” was born. The length of the dresses returned to the former, the silhouette of the sleeves was not as elaborate as a decade ago. Jewelry on clothes also became more restrained. In the 50s, crinolines began to be made from a whalebone or even from steel wire. They were large and very much like a round birdcage. The skirts were incredibly wide. Horizontal shuttlecocks in several rows adorned them below. A white collar and cuffs came into fashion. Shining silk from Lyon was the most sought-after material, from which was sewn a ball gown of the 19th century, and an exquisite outfit for a summer walk. True, the former were supplemented by luxurious decorations.
Tournaments and Fijm
By the end of the sixties, the silhouettes of dresses have changed.
At the back, they were voluminous and lush, but the front and sides became narrow and flat. This effect was achieved through the use of patch elements - tournaments, which were placed behind below the waist line. The volume of the lower part of the dress was emphasized by folds of fabric on the back. In front, the lower part of the dress was decorated with embroidery, bows, lace or pleating. The silhouette seemed slim and fabulously elegant. An abundance of decorative elements distinguishes women's dresses of the 19th century of the 70-80s. The more complex and inventive the decorations, the better. Shuttlecocks, festoons, patterns embroidered with pearls, etc., hid from the eyes the natural figure of the lady. The only so-called “princess” dress became one style exception to the rule, it was all-cut and revealed the natural outlines of the figure.
Transition time
The end of the 19th century and the beginning of a new century passed under the banner of Art Nouveau. The aesthetics of artificiality in the fashion of the past gave way to pragmatic-natural silhouettes. The tournament turned into a tren - a long canvas assembled in assemblies behind. The bodice has become more tight and narrow. The dress in the style of the 19th century (end) had a characteristic S-shaped silhouette: the “pigeon chest” was balanced by the lush back. Gradually, the skirts acquired a simpler, flare-like shape, the collar of the dress became high and closed. The flashed fashion of the past on the sleeves of the “lamb leg” quickly died out, giving way to simple contours.
French flavor
The trendsetter, as in the previous century, remained France. Parisian styles “walked” unhindered from country to country, not even passing by orthodox Japan. Design developments of the Gallic couturiers determined the appearance of dresses of the 19th century (photo). England responded with more restrained models in terms of open parts of the body, Russia strictly adhered to the given forms. Germany made adjustments to the proposed models, in accordance with its somewhat straightforward attitude to reality.
19th Century Ball Gown
Contemporaries recalled that the balls of that time could be admired as antique bas-reliefs or Etruscan vases. So wondrous and entertaining were the women's outfits. An obligatory element was the neckline: deep - for married ladies, and less provocative - for unmarried women. Long gloves extending beyond the elbow line upwards in white or ivory colors, a lush fan, shoes with a steady and low heel are the details of a women's ball gown. The age was determined by the style of the outfit. Young people flaunted in dresses that were elegant and unusual in a light tone, while older women demonstrated the splendor of designer refinements in all their might. But in either case, the woman at the ball of the 19th century resembled an exquisitely prepared sponge cake with cream and cream.