Pockets are an integral part of almost every item. They are very diverse in shape and design. Pockets are divided into external and internal.
External pockets are one of the important factors affecting the appearance of the product. They are located on the main parts or seams. They are divided into three main groups - welt pockets, those located at the seams, and patch pockets.
Pockets
Using the method of knot processing of the pocket, the product provides additional strength in the connecting seams. Reliability is added to the connection of the pocket with clothes. Finishing elements are leaflets or valves that carry form-resistant properties.
There can be welt pockets with leaflets or flaps, with hemming or flap, one or two hemming.
External welt pockets handle different details:
- Leaf or valve - parts that are used to trim and design pockets. These parts can be solid or lined.
- Tucking is a part with which cuts are processed in a slot for a pocket.
- The lining can be either single-piece or consisting of two halves.
- Valance. This part protects the lining from wear and closes the lining in the pocket at the entry level. Welt pockets with leaflets are designed in the second part of the pocket opening.
- The shareholder serves to strengthen sections of the main part of the ends of the pocket. This part must be cut out of non-adhesive or, conversely, adhesive material for linings. The shareholder protects the pocket from stretching during sewing, as well as in the process of wearing and using the pocket. Sometimes a lining of the pocket serves as a dolly, which is cut in the direction of the slot of the pocket.
Pocket with stitched ends
Sewing a welt pocket with a leaf with set-in ends is easy. For this, it is necessary to clearly understand the sequence of actions that must be performed in a strictly specified order. A welt pocket with a leaflet is sewn in a certain sequence.
Leaf pockets are most common in suits, trousers and outerwear. In connection with this feature, it is necessary to work with a dense fabric folded several times.
Pockets differ in the direction of the slot: there are inclined, horizontal or vertical. According to the shape of the leaf itself, the pockets are divided into curly and rectangular.
The leaflet designs are also diverse - solid or lined. The location of the pockets can be any: side pockets or top.
Sewing (processing) a pocket with a leaflet consists of several stages:
- Stage 1: leaflet processing;
- Stage 2: pocket processing;
- Stage 3: pocket assembly.
Leaflet Functions
To understand how to sew a welt pocket with a leaflet, a master class will help even novice seamstresses. To understand the principle of work, it is necessary to clearly know what functions the leaflet performs and what it consists of.
The leaflet serves to arrange the entrance to the pocket and bears frequent mechanical stresses. They are made with a gasket of thread or adhesive fastening. Also, leaflets can be with edges - these are used for sewing coats of thick materials.
Welt pockets with leaflets with set-in ends have a double leaflet on the wrong side with a lining of dense material. This gasket must be adhesive. It is ironed in a fold.
The leaf on the lining should be grinded along the upper and side slices. The seam is fixed with a finishing stitch. You can use sizing materials for this. If the leaflet is connected to the product using a stitch seam, that the grind line, as well as the sewing line, is not brought to the bottom cut by 7-10 mm. The lining must be carefully bent.
Step-by-step steps
- It is necessary to use chalk or a tailor pencil to indicate the place where the pocket will be. The cut is indicated by four lines, these lines limit the size of the future pocket.
- The sizes to which welt pockets with leaflets will be equal are determined. For adults, a pocket can be 14 to 16 cm long and 2 to 5 cm wide.
- The distance that is obtained between two horizontal lines is the width of the future leaflet. It is along these lines that both the gap and the leaflet are ground.
- The distance between the short vertical lines is the width.
- The inside of the pocket must be reinforced with a doleik.
Cutting out the details
The first step is to cut out the leaf itself. For this, a rectangle in two additions is cut out from the fabric of the product. The rectangle bent in half in height and width should correspond to the size of the future leaflet. It is in addition in half that the part will be sewn. Inside the cut-out area, adhesive material is laid.
The fabric folds and is swept away. The edge is carefully ironed and stitched on a typewriter.
Sewing lines are applied to the sides with a marking tool.
Lining and lining
To sew the right welt pocket with a set-in leaflet, you need a gap. The width of this element is equal to the width of the leaf, and the height is 2 times larger.
Two rectangles of the same size are cut from the lining fabric . The width should match the width of the leaflet. A lining is placed on the leaflet, lined and stitched on a typewriter.
The lining is turned away and ironed. Now the second part of the lining is also sewn onto the gap.
Combining a part with a product
The marking lines on the fabric and the marking lines of the leaf are combined. The resulting element is combined with the product. The leaflet is located with the lining of the front part on the product, inverted.
The first line is laid along the width line of the pocket.
The valve leans back and the clearance is also ground. It is laid face down on the product. The position is aligned with the position of the leaflet. The line of the joint gap must be combined with the upper horizontal line on the frame.
Pocket cut
Now the processing of a welt pocket with a leaf begins. Adhesive is applied to the fabric and a frame is drawn.
With the help of scissors, a cut is made - from the center to the points of connection of the sides of the triangle and along the sides. The resulting element is turned and sewn with oblique stitches with internal parts.
Seam allowances are ironed.
For a thin fabric without a lining in the product, the allowances are smoothed to a point. After that, the width of the allowances should be aligned with the width of the frame in the place where the inversion is up.
Then, along the line of the transverse side of the frame, the part, on which the pocket itself is located, is bent to the wrong side.
The edges of the gap and leaflets must be manually swept away to avoid skewing. A line is laid, and the corners of the pocket are fixed. To keep the pocket better, do three lines. After stitching the parts, you can process the edges of the pad and pocket from sprinkling. To do this, the edges are either overlocked or treated with adhesive material sold in specialized stores. Which way to choose depends on the wishes of the seamstress.
After that, all the parts are lightly ironed and the auxiliary lines are removed.
Laying lines on the short sides of the pocket, they also grab the sides of the lining, turning the lining of the pocket into the so-called burlap.
A master class will also help a beginner seamstress to sew sew welt pockets with leaflets on her own. Such pockets look good on any type of clothing. In addition, by making a welt pocket with a leaf on light fabric, the master class can be independently adapted to dense fabric.
Such welt pockets can be located not only horizontally, but also vertically or at an angle. For their sewing, all the tips described above are ideal.
Most pockets have a rectangular shape. However, a diamond shape may also be used. Such a pocket is carried out only at an angle.
They are performed according to a similar scheme. The difference is that the leaflet and product span are adjusted along lines slightly offset from each other.