The ability to cut and sew was always highly appreciated, and the ability to build patterns, patterns of various models is a significant advantage. There are several methods for designing clothes (according to TSOTSHL, fake method and others), and to build a drawing, for example, of such a design as the basis of the dress pattern, is not particularly difficult. However, perhaps not everyone knows that on the basis of this construction, various models can be designed. Let's consider some methods of such construction.
Art and design tools in modeling
The basis of the dress pattern can serve as the basis for building models of this type of clothing with the same level of fit. At the same time, it can be noted that to create “hard” forms, such decorative and constructive seams as tucks, reliefs, yoke lines, ironed folds and so on are used. And to get more “soft”, smooth and voluminous forms, it is necessary to provide for assemblies, small folds, puffs and draperies.
The following modeling tools are distinguished, using the ready-made construction of the dress base pattern:
- Ways to translate darts (graphic and breadboard).
- The method of combining darts.
- Replacement Method.
- Design of sections in tucks.
Highlights of breadboard modeling
The breadboard method is the simplest modeling tool, and you can get a wide variety of forms. For example, the usual basis of the dress pattern can be used to create this type of clothing with tails and assemblies, while it will be useful to know the following rules:
- If the assemblies and puffs will be located along the shoulder section and the waist line, then the solutions of the chest tuck and at the waist are replaced by the assembly.
- In the case of the location of volumetric forms along the neckline, a tuck solution on the chest is transferred to this area. To do this, use the prepared basis of the dress pattern (you can retake the details on tracing paper), mark the center of the assembly and the puff on it and connect this point to the beginning of the tuck. According to the received line, the part needs to be cut, and the previous tuck should be closed, that is, connect its lines and glue.
- According to the method described above, it is possible to make soft folds in various areas on clothing, for example, puffs can be laid along the shoulder cut line, transferring the entire breast tuck solution to this area.
- One fold on the back can be done by expanding this part along the midline of the seam, while two such elements can be obtained by translating the shoulder protrusions down, connecting the lines with the central solution at the waist.
- Embossed seams are obtained by connecting the chest protrusion (which must first be transferred to the shoulder seam) and the central solution at the waist, while the lines must be circled smoothly, without kinks.
This method of obtaining various forms of clothing is very simple, and it can be used without even knowing how to build a dress-based pattern. To do this, it is enough to choose a suitable model in the magazine (the sample must match the level of fit, of course, in size and other elements, for example, a collar, sleeves and so on). By retaking the patterns on tracing paper, you can perform the above steps. For example, an ordinary blouse of a semi-adjacent silhouette of an office style can be turned into a feminine blouse if you transfer the chest lateral tuck into the area of the front seam, thereby obtaining soft folds.