How to make a dress pattern? Step-by-step instruction

The process of choosing a dress usually brings a lot of positive emotions associated with the upcoming celebration. Even if a girl buys herself a dress for every day, she still looks forward to the reaction of others. From here comes fear. Is it sitting well? Is this style fit? What if someone comes in the same?

Or another situation: the girl has already come up with a dress that she wants. Concrete, with details, trim, from a certain material. And, having come to the store, she either doesn’t even find close what she wanted, or she can’t afford it. Or maybe the girl has a non-standard figure, and the dresses sit well only after fitting in the atelier. As a result, the cost doubles.

What to do in these cases? To sew! And if there is no opportunity to visit the sewing studio several times, and the cost of such a dress will often be twice the cost in the store? Then it’s all the same to sew, only by ourselves. This is a guarantee that, firstly, the dress will be exclusive, secondly, exactly as you would like, and thirdly, it will sit well on any figure, since it will be sewn not on a mannequin, but on a specific person, yes and fitting can be done as needed.

And if there are no skills in cutting and sewing? There is nothing to worry about. The main thing is to correctly "lay the foundation" of the future dress - to design a pattern. You can use patterns from the Internet or magazines, but then again there will be sewing "on a mannequin." And you can make a dress pattern according to individual parameters and for a specific figure.

Instruments

So, when questions and self-doubt were left behind, you can begin to work. First you need to prepare the tools:

• Paper. It must be large enough to fully enter the pattern. It can be a Whatman paper, wallpaper or poster. Since it is problematic for beginners to make a dress pattern on plain paper, it is better to take graph paper of the desired size.
• Notebook. It is convenient to write down all the parameters that will be needed to build the pattern. You can write them on a piece of paper, but losing it is much easier. Moreover, later these calculations may still be needed to build another pattern.
• Pencil. It is better to take medium hardness so that the line is drawn easily, but it does not smear.
• Eraser.
• Ruler - 2 pieces. One - the longer, the better. The second is short, about 20-30 cm. With its help, draw short lines, such as grooves, armholes and other small details.
• Tape measure. Needed to take measurements.
• Working surface. You can make a dress pattern both on the table and on any other flat surface, even on the floor.

You can also use the pattern to build bends (for example, the neck), a vernier caliper, a ruler to the raisin (to draw parallel lines), a triangular ruler. But you can make a dress pattern without them.

Important! Before starting work, it is necessary to verify all the rulers and measuring tapes used for the identity of one centimeter.

Take measurements

How to make a dress pattern on your figure? As the great Coco Chanel said:

A well-cut dress goes to any woman!

It is very important to completely relax the body before taking measurements. Even if the parameters are far from the ideal of 90 * 60 * 90, it must be remembered that an inverted belly or too tightly stretched measuring tape will delight almost the desired numbers only now, but will fundamentally ruin the future dress.

main parameters

So, to design a pattern, the following parameters are required:

1. OT - waist circumference, measured at the narrowest point of the body.
2. ABOUT - thigh circumference, measured by the most protruding parts of the buttocks. If the shape is of a non-standard shape, you can remove additional parameters ABOUT ₁ , ABOUT ₂ , etc.
3. OG - chest girth, measured by the protruding tops of the chest.
4. OnG - girth above the chest.
5. OSH - neck circumference.
6. ODA - the girth of the armhole.
7. RG - the distance between the tops of the chest.
8. VG - chest height. Measured from the shoulder (shoulder seam) to the top of the chest.
9. BT - waist height, 2 values. Measured from the shoulder seam to the waist in front and back.
10. WB - the distance between the line along which the waist and hips are measured. If there are several OB parameters, each OB will need its own WB.
11. CI - the length of the future dress.
12. DP - the length of the shoulder seam.
13. OR - girth of the hand. For dresses with sleeves.
14. OZ - girth of the wrist.
    

Extra options

Since it is impossible to make a dress pattern without additional calculations, therefore, the following parameters will also be needed:

1. AL - back width = 0.125 * OT + 5.5.
2. ShG - chest width = 0.25 * OG - 4.
3. - armhole width = 0.125 * -1.5.
4. GP - armhole depth = 0.5 * OD + 0.5 cm = 0.1 * Exhaust gas + 10.5.
5. VyT - the total size of the tucks.
6. PB - thigh increase = (OB - FR) / 4.

So that in the future it was possible to sew dresses of various styles, you must first make a dress base pattern (classic case).

Basic dress pattern

So, how to make a dress pattern for beginners. Step-by-step instruction. First you need to build a working grid.

1. Lay the paper on a flat surface. Secure the edges if necessary.
2. Draw a rectangle with the sides DI (down) and ½ OG + 1.5. Since part of the pattern will be located above the base rectangle, it is necessary to retreat at least 5 centimeters from the top.
3. Parallel to the upper side of the rectangle draw a line at a height of ½ OPR + 0.5.
4. Divide the resulting rectangle into 3 parts: = 1/8 + 5.5, = 1/8 - 1 and = ¼ - 3.
5. From the upper side of the main rectangle measure VT along the back and VT along the back + WB.
6. The long sides of the middle rectangle located in the upper part of the base are divided into 4 equal parts (each).
7. Divide the bottom side of the middle rectangle in half, draw a line down.

The working grid is ready.

Back

How to make a dress pattern step by step shown in the photo

1. In the upper left rectangle, set aside 1/6 of OR + 0.5 left and 2 up.
2. Connect the resulting point with the initial concave line.
3. On the right side line measure 1.5 cm down.
4. Draw a line through this and the highest points.
5. Measure on it the segment DP + 1.
6. Connect the extreme point of this segment with 2/4 of the lateral line, and 3/4 with ½ NL.
7. Combine the resulting segments with a smooth concave line. To do this, it is better to use a pattern.
   

Before

We work with the front of the dress:

1. From the intersection of the right line of the main rectangle and the VT along the back, put up the VT along the front.
2. On the resulting straight line, set aside 1/6 OSh + 1.5 down.
3. Draw a line parallel to the main line through the highest point.
4. On this line measure 1/6 OR + 0.5 to the left.
5. Connect the marked points with a smooth concave line. Since it will be difficult to make a dress pattern for beginners with a side undercut, it is better to draw a dress with a shoulder.
   
6. From point 1/6 OSH + 0.5 mark left 4, and from it down 1.
7. Hypotenuse this right-angled triangle.
8. On the bottom line of the right rectangle mark ½ WG to the left.
9. Connect this point to the bottom corner of the triangle.
10. The resulting segment is divided in half.
11. Measure ½ - ½ OnG from half of this segment to the left.
12. Through the resulting and the ½ point of the exhaust gas, draw the beam up.
    
13. On the beam, note the length equal to the segment from ½ RG to the bottom of the triangle.
14. Connect the top of the line to 1/4 of the right side of the left rectangle.
15. On this line measure the left DP - 4 and down 2 at an angle of 90 ^° .
16. Draw the hypotenuse of the triangle.
    
17. Connect the bottom corner of this triangle with 3/4 of the left side of the right rectangle.
18. Divide the line in half.
19. From the middle of the line measure 1 cm to the left.
20. Connect the lower apex of the triangle, the resulting point and 2/4 of the side line, and 3/4 connect with 1/2 ShP.
21. Combine the obtained segments with a smooth concave line.
    

Felt tucks

In order to make tuck tucks on the dress pattern, as mentioned above, it will be necessary to calculate ½ OG - ½ OT. This difference will be removed in three places: 1/6 on the back and in front along the ½ line of the groove, the remaining part (2/3 of the total tuck) is divided into 3 parts, one of which is tucked into the tuck on the front shelf, and the remaining two - on the back.

For example, 1/2 OG - 1/2 OT = 9. Then along the line ½ NW 9/3 = 3 will go. It remains 9 - 3 = 6. In front, the width of the tuck will be 6/3 * 1 = 2, in the back - 6/3 * 2 = 4.

1. From the intersection of the VT along the back and 1/2 of the tapeway, measure 1/6 of the right and left.
2. Connect the points with the point ½ on the line ½ OPR + 0.5.
3. From the extreme left side of the main rectangle on the BT line along the back, measure 1/2 to the right.
4. To the right and left of this point, set aside (Out - 1/3 Out) / 3 * 4.
5. Draw a line through the point ½ GC to the intersections of the lines ½ OPr + 0.5 and WB.
6. On the obtained segment, lay down 3.5 from top to bottom, and 2 cm from bottom to top.
7. Connect the points to the ends of the line (Out - 1/3 Out) / 3 * 2.
8. From the extreme right side of the main rectangle on the BT line, measure 1/2 1/2 of the left to the left.
9. To postpone from this point to the right and left (Out - 1/3 Out) / 6.
10. Draw a line through the point ½ SHG to the intersections of the lines ½ OPr + 0.5 and WB.
11. On the resulting segment down, measure 5.5.
12. Connect this point with the edges of the segment (Out - 1/3 Out) / 3 and the intersection point of the lines ½ WG and WB.
    

Hip line

1. Since a dress pattern should be made in some cases by a figure whose exhaust gas is less than OB, it is necessary to calculate (½ OB - ½ OG) / 2.
2. Postpone the resulting value to the right and left at the intersection of the lines ½ BW and WB.
3. Connect the right point on the WB line with the 1/6 Out left point, and vice versa, the left point on the WB line with the 1/6 Out right point.

The convex part of the back on the WB line is located on half of the front of the dress, so for the convenience of further work with the pattern, you need to circle the main lines and transfer to a blank sheet of paper. It is better to take tracing paper for this.

The basis of the dress pattern is ready.

Sleeve

1. Draw a rectangle with the sides OP + 4 to the left and DR down.
2. On the DR line down, mark ¾ GPR or ¾ (½ OPR + 1). The values ​​will be the same.
3. Line OP + 4 divided into 4 equal parts. The start grid is ready.
4. 1/2 of the upper line to connect with the intersection of the DR with ¾ GPR. The result is an equilateral triangle.
5. Divide each side of the triangle by 4.
6. From bottom to top, on the left side of the triangle, note: 1/4 down 0.5 at a 90 ° angle, 2/4 up 1/4 of the upper line 2, 3/4 up 2 at a 90 ° angle.
7. Connect the obtained points with ¾ GPR and 1/2 of the upper side of the main rectangle with the help of a pattern or by hand.
8. From top to bottom, on the right side of the triangle, note: 1/4 up 1.5 at an angle of 90 °, 3/4 down 2 at an angle of 90 °.
9. Connect these points with ½ (OP + 4), ¾ GPR and 2/4 of the right side of the triangle.
10. On the bottom line of the main rectangle from the line 1/4, lay left 2 and up 10. This is a classic section. The straight sleeve pattern is ready.
11. If a narrower is needed, then on the bottom line in the center lay the segment OZ + 4. Connect the edges with the intersection points of the DR and ¾ GPr lines.
12. The section on the narrowed sleeve is located at ¼ (OZ + 4) from the left edge.
    

Dress options

Using a similar pattern of the base, it is possible to sew any dress: short or long, flared or tight-fitting, with long sleeves, short or no at all, casual or festive. It all depends on the imagination and purpose.

Dress Year

For example, you can make a dress pattern for a year, both festive and everyday. This type of dress is easy to sew. However, it looks very impressive. For everyday variation, it is necessary to sew an assembled piece of fabric equal to at least 2 hip circumferences for the formation of a shuttlecock. The longer the length, the more magnificent the lower part will be.

The easiest way to sew a long godet dress, called a "mermaid dress" or "fish tail", is considered to be detachable. For this method, an additional part is sewn to the narrowed hem of the base dress, cut out according to the principle of cutting a skirt-sun or double sun, where the girth of the hem is taken for the waist circumference.

Child dress

And how to make a dress pattern for a girl? In fact, even easier than for an adult. The peculiarity of the anatomy of children, or rather the absence of a magnificent breast, greatly facilitates the process of cutting. The neck, shoulder and armhole are drawn as on the back of an adult base dress. The front shelf is drawn similarly to the back, but a centimeter wider, and the neckline is lower by one and a half centimeters. Tucks can be made on the back or remove excess volume in the side seams, if necessary.

Dress for the doll

You can make patterns for dresses for dolls, based on both an adult and a children's pattern. It must be remembered that the flexibility of the doll is less, there is a limitation of the hands, and the head in proportion is larger than that of a person. Therefore, the style of the dress should not be too narrow, the fasteners should be located so that the clothes can be removed without dismantling the toy. Also try to avoid large numbers of small parts. To process the neck and armhole of puppet, less often children’s clothing, the bodice details are duplicated - two parts of the front and back are cut out, folded with the front side to each other: the front with the front and the back and back, the armhole and neck are sewn, the parts are turned out, 2 parts are turned out, 2 parts are obtained , front and back, already with finished edges. Next, the dress is sewn just like any other.

Dresses have always been an important part of any woman’s wardrobe. A few decades ago, not a single girl who values ​​her reputation could not afford to appear in society in trousers. Today the situation has changed a lot. Jeans and shorts have long been squeezed on the shelves of dresses, now even at formal events and social events you can see women in trousers. However, it cannot be said that the dresses completely stopped wearing. They remained a symbol of femininity, a necessary part of the women's wardrobe. Having studied how to make a dress pattern and sewed an outfit with it, you can always be sure that no one will have the exact same dress.